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Clunk in the trunk

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Offline alhast

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Clunk in the trunk
« on: March 01, 2011, 10:34:59 PM »
Hello there im Alistair from New Zealand

I have a 1995 V6 suzuki escudo nomade LWB Auto...

When i come to a sudden stop and the back drops.. it makes a clunk sound... at first i thought it may have been the Auto gearbox dropping into first gear (thinking it may needed to be tuned) but then i thought the rear drum brakes sticking? so i investagate... Thats when i found attached to the diff A-arm is a little thingy that is tyed into the brake system.. What the hell is that? i asked myself... is that my problem? It looks as tho it would only work when stopping keeping the ass down when throwing out the anchors..

Any help would be cool..

PS i was going to remove it.. is that wise?
Kiwis Rule

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Offline fordguy79

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  • long beach Wa,
Re: Clunk in the trunk
« Reply #1 on: March 02, 2011, 08:51:06 AM »
A pic could help
87sami 32" bfg mt 6.5:1 w/reverse S shifter  1.6 16v sold and missed

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Offline alhast

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Re: Clunk in the trunk
« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2011, 08:39:02 PM »
Hello there
 
Here are some pictures.. The green arrow is the lever that's connected to the A-arm.

the red arrow is the "thingy" that is tied in to the brakes.

the blue arrow is the A-arm

Note that the pics are taken sliding under the back of the Sidekick looking up and back on the right hand side.. (drivers here)
Kiwis Rule

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Offline meach4x4

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Re: Clunk in the trunk
« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2011, 09:43:56 PM »
The device you are referring to is a brake modulator (aka active proportioning valve) that reduces pressure on the rear brakes when the rear of your vehicle lifts up.  This helps keep the rear wheels from skidding when the weight shifts from rear to front. 

Unfortunately, if you put a lift on your vehicle, the modulator is fooled by the fact that rear always seems to be lifting, so rear brakep ressure is always decreased.  It is possible the "clunk in the trunk" is actually your "a-frame" bottoming out if you have a lift.  If that is the case, the fix is installing a rear diff correction spacer to lift the a-frame up to the correct angle (as it was before the lift)  so it will not bottom out.  Correcting the angle of the a-frame will correct the modulator confusion.

Hope this helps,

Gil