This is the problem with a turbocharger that is below the oil return,
the oil is whipped into what amounts to a dirty looking whipped cream
and then floats on top of the liquid oil, causing a backup in the turbo
that then looses oil out the seals, either the compressor or the exhaust
side and will cause smoke and oil usage.

Wild

Are you referring to the position of the turbo charger's oil return line relative to the "normal" oil level in the pan here?

Yes, as well as the oil must have a downhill slope for drainage, you must
not try return the oil above the turbo such as through a hole in the valve
cover.

Bentparts got around this by using a pump to return the oil, but it adds
a level of complexity and a possible point of failure should the pump stop

Wild

WOW!!!

I didn't want to "PISS IN YOUR POST-TOASTIES" here guys!!

I just had the habit of putting the last WHOLE Quart of oil in, instead of having all those half empty bottles hanging around,
figuring it would not hurt too have a LITTLE extra in the crankcase for when I go on.. "Oh Jesus, you MF you're gunna kill us!!"
trail rides. (Note full line is 4 1/2 quarts w/filter). Also I did mention that the "Ol Timber Cruiser" has a smoking habit too.

CAPT

 I am new to Zuks and I have a 1.3L 1987 Zuk.  I changed the oil to synthetic and I have not had any issues with leaking seals at all!!!

Quote from: fordem on March 16, 2011, 08:38:06 AM

Oh - with regard that "not using synthetic in a high mileage engine because it causes seals to leak" - just an "old wives" tale.  Back when Mobil1 first hit the market, that's what I was told by the Mobil1 rep here - back then I wasn't prepared to pay the price, but since then I have done my own tests and switched to a full synthetic oil for a year, before experimenting with varying synthetic blends, and then back to a conventional motor oil - never had any problems with leaking seals.

As long as your engine is in good shape, sure.  The issue is the synthetic oil can clean out all of the sludge that is keeping the seals from leaking. 

A high detergent will do the same thing.

I've been looking into what kind of oil I want to run and have narrowed it down to 2 choices, Royal Purple or Redline.  From what I've red of people's opinions on line both seem good and I was having a hard time finding any hard data as to which was better or what strength's/weakness each had.  I talked to Steve at Performance parts in Salem, he sells both brands and his advice was Redline.  His main reason for endorsing Redline over Purple was their line up of products is much larger, by having more products they can tailor each for a specific purpose.  After reviewing catalogs of both manufacturers I can see Steve's point, there are 6 reline AT F's and only 1 RP ATF.  Redline also has many more manual transmission oil choices and different separate gear oils as there are different metals in a transmission vs an axle housing.  This all being said he still couldn't give me any specific answers as to which was better and why.  Then I came across this : http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf  I know it is a bit dated and some of the oils that they review I've never even heard of but this was the only actual lab style test I could find that reviewed both Royal Purple and Redline.  I thought it was interesting reading and thought that you all might like to see it as well.  Right now I'm going with Royal Purple but would like to try Redline sometime in the future.  If anyone who reads this has any info about these two oils I would live to hear your thoughts and experiences.

that is a great read. It makes me feel allot better about putting 50 dollar oil changes in my rigs! truly amazing! thanks for that

Interesting read, you can tell there from the UK using words like " whilst " but a pretty good test. We had several distributors perform similar demonstrations at our bike shop. I used RP the first couple of oil changes after doing the turbo and it is VG stuff. As often as I change oil it's just got too expensive to toss.  Adding some Lucas to the lesser brands helps them perform similarly.

Interesting read, you can tell there from the UK using words like " whilst " but a pretty good test.

Australia actually - UK prices are never quoted in dollars and the advertisments with Australian addresses are a dead give away 

 I stand corrected good sir.

I always say that a good quality recommended engine oil should be used. Not a heavier or a lighter one. For proper lubrication of the engine a specific grade of engine oil is recommended in the manual.