I am really thinking about going to a soild axle after all the breakage i had last weekend(might not seem like much but its enought to piss me off).  if i do it will be a coil 4-link witha Dana 44 from a Scout ll.  i I just want all of your opinoins about this.

stu

Four link coil with a dana 44.  Sounds like a Jeep Rubicon!  

Not very Zuk sounding.

In a light Zuk it should be bulletproof.

Cwkick

What did you break stu?

pinion mount and bellhouseing

I believe if you use the scout 2 axle, you will have to swap both front and rear.

SAS kick ass for sure, but its not worth doing unless its done right. (IMHO)

So if you do go ahead and do it, make sure you take your time and do a good job.  Otherwise it may be a bitch to drive.  

ITS MOSTLY A PERSONAL PREFERENCE I WOULD SAY. BUT YOU WILL PROBABLY SINK A LOT MORE MONEY GOING THAT ROUTE THAN YOU WOULD PUTTING IN A STEEL SET UP FROM THE 99GV .......MATTY  

Do the 44's.  By the time you get the steel front end and then upgrade your cvs, you'll have twice as much $ in it then the 44 set up.  I am assuming that you will be doing the work yourself and that you have (or can get to) a good shop.  My .02
Brian

i made a sas from a dana 35 ,off a heep, that i got from a friend. it cost me $70 in steel tubing & 1/2 plate steel and alot of time. i made a four link close to what calmini made, meaning i used the idea of the cross member. i haven't put in yet because i want to get a sammi case instead of trying to find a slip yoke eliminator. oh and those cheap King Shocks. HEY MONEY SUCKS when u don't have it.

King shocks       = $1000 set
sammi case 4:1 = $500
drive shaft front= $150
drive shaft rear = $60
steel                  = $70
misc. parts         = $150
             TOTAL   = $1930

ther is something else but i can't remeber what. Oh yea STEERING.

ITS MOSTLY A PERSONAL PREFERENCE I WOULD SAY. BUT YOU WILL PROBABLY SINK A LOT MORE MONEY GOING THAT ROUTE THAN YOU WOULD PUTTING IN A STEEL SET UP FROM THE 99GV .......MATTY  

think about it like this .  this is an upgrade for the whole front end, not just the center cection. you get 3rd member, stronger axle houseing, stronger CV's, and stronger hubs.

stu

i made a sas from a dana 35 ,off a heep, that i got from a friend. it cost me $70 in steel tubing & 1/2 plate steel and alot of time. i made a four link close to what calmini made, meaning i used the idea of the cross member. i haven't put in yet because i want to get a sammi case instead of trying to find a slip yoke eliminator. oh and those cheap King Shocks. HEY MONEY SUCKS when u don't have it.

King shocks       = $1000 set
sammi case 4:1 = $500
drive shaft front= $150
drive shaft rear = $60
steel                  = $70
misc. parts         = $150
             TOTAL   = $1930

ther is something else but i can't remeber what. Oh yea STEERING.

it will be alot cheaper for me.  i won't be useing King shocks or a sammy case.  all i will need is gears, locker, 4 link bars, pan hard bar, coils, drive shaft, and streeing(mabey hydro?) alot cheaper than your set up.


stu

Man, I see a Lot of "purests" in here who say no but I say it would be SWEET!! By looking at your tires You obviously have a penchant for goin big! A SAS on a kick with 44's would be one mean wheeling machine. If you have the skill why not do it!! You won't regret it and that's for sure!!!

hey do you know where to find a slipyoke elminator. if so i could probly run my 32 for now with a driveshaft spacer on the front. that would kick ass.

If you go this way, you'll need to understand that the brakes, steering, driveline, suspension will all have to be evaluated. The master cylinder may have to be upgraded to be able to handle the larger volume caliper (if there is a big difference between Suzuki's and the SAS). Steering conversion will have to tie the tie rods together. Sometimes, it's just a lot easier just to use heim joints at these are drilled straight through rather than tapered. Hydraulic is another option, but if you go full hydro, you are talking about upwards of $1000 for the pump, valve, hoses, shaft adapter, etc. You'll have to match the pulleys also on that for the pump pressure. If you go with Scout axles, you'll have to redo the caster as the stock Scout axles were 0 degrees caster. When you redo the caster you'd want to point the pinion at the t-case to eliminate any potential binding during suspension cycling. The front shaft will have to be redone to match the output yoke of the Suzuki t-case to the input yoke of the Scout axle. Then the cycling of the suspension to measure the slip necessary. Suspension, easiest to install is the leaf. There is a lot to consider.

Are you planning to street this? Hydro is not an option for street use... its very Illegal.   BTW I can promise you that you wont save $ by doing a SAS. When you build something custom from the ground up their is always lots of hidden costs. Also doing things twice... or god forbid 3 and 4 times. Ive redesigned several things on my rig 3 and 4 times until I get it right. This costs $ too. U joints, links joints, link steel, hydro, coils, shocks, ect...Hidden costs you dont think of.

On the other side of the coin if being cheap is not your goal then I say its in your personal preference. I would recomend riding or driving someones rig simmilar to what you plan to build to be sure this is what you want.  :-/

I cant think of how to word this without sounding like an jerk. Dont take it that way, its not my intention. I think its a little silly to be upset about breaking a part easily known as the kicks weakest link. There has been  multiple posts on this very subject and upgraded parts are availible. Mabey you should cool down before doing anything drastic that you cant undo.   :-/

Mike

well its not that i am pissed about breaking as much as i am that my rig isn't up to the goal i set for it.  i'm trying too build a super tough, light wiegh, all around good rig.  and if that means ditching the IFS than it will be gone.  and Mike i didn't take any of your comments the wrong way,  your right, i am acting a little childish.  I hope i will grow out of it in time.  and i have seen a guy with hydro steering(might not have been full hydro) and he said it was fine on the road.

stu