While adjusting my TPS sensor I realized that the samurai 1.3L throttle lever never touches the throttle stop screw....cold or hot..running or not....

I don't have my service manual in front of me but i read where there should be a gap between the throttle lever and stop screw but the gap should close once the car is cranked or turned off -- either way -- it's not closing. Then I was wondering what "close" means -- does it mean the gap should grow smaller or the gap should close fully and you cannot slide a feeler between the throttle lever and throttle stop screw. 

Currently I can slide my 2 largest feelers between the lever and stop screw without resistance...hot or cold...cranked or not.

The black vacuum diaphram thingy (VSV?) does work and works smoothly... I can see it move back and forth when I apply 50 from a vacuum pump -- so based on it moving back and forth it appears to work.

Sorry for blowing up the forum with questions -- maybe in a few years they will turn into solutions...ha!

There is a throttle "kicker" on the TBI engines, and there is another screw that
adjusts that too, you might find it is hitting that instead of the throttle stop

Wild

Yea it is hitting the kicker...should it be hitting the stop screw or it doesn't really matter?

Didn't know if that could contribute to my cold idle issues...

The kicker is a cold start thing I think, I removed mine because it made the truck idle
funny. sometimes high and sometimes too low, I just adjusted the stop screw to set
the idle

Wild

Yea it is hitting the kicker...should it be hitting the stop screw or it doesn't really matter?

Didn't know if that could contribute to my cold idle issues...

With the throttle opener retracted with vacuum, the throttle should be hitting the throttle stop screw.  When you adjust the TPS, for example, you use this procedure and slide a feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the throttle, before you adjust the TPS.
When the engine is cold, the throttle opener pushes on the throttle to bump the throttle up a little higher.
I have had trackicks and samurais where people have messed with the throttle stop screw (the one you aren't supposed to adjust).  I just go measure one of my other zuks, that haven't been messed with, to get an approximate setting for the throttle stop screw.

k. i'll check into it....  I noticed the lever never touching the screw when i used the feelers.... it was touching the screw on the vacuum so i figure its been adjusted...

k. i'll check into it....  I noticed the lever never touching the screw when i used the feelers.... it was touching the screw on the vacuum so i figure its been adjusted...

As I said, the throttle opener needs to be retracted by vacuum, before the throttle will touch the throttle stop screw (that is, as long as the throttle stop screw is adjusted correctly).

Yea I wasn't doubting you...meant I'll check on mine and see If it's worth adjusting and getting back to factory specs when it idles fine...

Any big deal if it idles fine and the throttle stop screw isn't being "used?" well after it warms up it idles fine...has a cold idle issue that I'm working on...if I replac 1 more sensor I'm going to...!!

Yea I wasn't doubting you...meant I'll check on mine and see If it's worth adjusting and getting back to factory specs when it idles fine...

Any big deal if it idles fine and the throttle stop screw isn't being "used?" well after it warms up it idles fine...has a cold idle issue that I'm working on...if I replac 1 more sensor I'm going to...!!

I didn't think you were...I was just making sure you understood what I was saying.
Going to make it hard to adjust the TPS, if the stop screw isn't adjusted somewhat close to where it is supposed to be.  Other than that, I don't know that it is a big deal, as long as it idles fine once warmed up.

The high warm idle is why I pulled my throttle kicker, I think some
of the vacuum controls under the hood have stopped working.

It idles fine warm now and idles high cold like it should, the wax pellet
warmup system is doing it's job and with no A/C I need no extra throttle

Mine idles at 800rpms immediately after cranking then goes in a series of high RPMs to low RPMs until it warms up...when cold u can hammer the pedal and it'll go bit there will be a spot where u get no response...by then it's warmed up and it runs like a champ. |removethispart|@ cold it dips into 400rpms and shakes before kicking back up...weird. May be TPS since I can't use the feelers to adjust. I can get the proper ohm readings at idle

That is a typical cold idle problem, the wax pellet seems to cause this
but if the warm idle is stable and doesn't go up and down I would just
leave well enough alone, you can adjust the TPS but it will do the same
thing when warming up

So thats just "the way of a samurai"....

I was expecting it to be like my newer model chevy truck ---crank it up and drive off...but if the 1.6L are known for needing time to warm up before drivin off then I now know to stop chasing a fix because it doesn't exist or isn't worth it...

When my trucklet was a new beast, it was a smooth driver stone cold,
but as years and miles and turbos and mods to the fuel system have
added up over the years it has picked up the quirks that most older
vehicles seem to develop, there may be a fix, but I don't think the 5
min of warm up time savings is worth the cost of repair

Wild