Does anyone know for certain if the 2.5L V6 is an interference or non interference engine?

I'm looking at a 2004 Tracker, it's "skipped" it's timing - trying to question an easy fix or engine swap

Dave

Interference - and it's extremely rare for them to "skip" timing - takes more than just a bit of slack to get timing chains to jump a tooth.

I went to look at it last night, it's not in great condition but there's next to no rust, which is rare here. There were large dogs he travelled with in the back, the interior & window tint is full of scratches & it smells like dog.
He tells me his mechanic told him a chain guide wore down & allowed slack to the chain causing it to skip. It's a gamble for me to get it & retime it in hopes it would work, because if it didn't - I can't afford a rebuild & replacement engines are rare.

This is just my opinion - based on being familiar with the engines.

There are three cam chains - two short ones, and a long one - the short ones link the camshafts in each head to one another, and in the left cylinder bank (driver's side) to an idler - these are too short to jump a tooth.

You need to remember (or picture - I'm sure you've had a bicycle at some point) what we are dealing with here - it's not a toothed belt where the teeth are at most 3/16" tall - but a chain where the teeth are at minimum 3/8" tall - it takes a lot of slack for a chain to jump a tooth.  (I'll bet your cycle chain NEVER "jumped a tooth" - the sprockets have to be really worn for that to happen - it may have come right off - usually over the side of the gearwheel - and your cycle probably had a lot more chain slack that these engines could ever have.)

The third chain is a long one that runs in a V - this is the only chain that could possibly jump a tooth, and I would say the chances of a worn guide allowing enough slack for it to actually happen are slim to nil.

The most common timing chain issue on these engines is not the chains becoming slack enough for it to jump a tooth, but becoming slack enough that they slap the guides and eventually break them and then pieces of the guides then become wedged in between the sprocket(s) and the chain(s) jamming the assembly and causing the chain itself to break - the cam(s) stop(s) turning, one or more valves remain open and the crank & pistons keep moving - end result one or more bent valves.

I don't think you're looking at simply retiming the engine.

At the very least - you need to do a leak down test.

This will give you a better idea of what you are up against...



I'd also be concerned (assuming a timing component either broke or wore down significantly) where the debris from is at now?  

In the pan? Oil pump? Bearings?

I'd offer him next to nothing for it. $$500 ish and little else, that way if / when you sink $2K in repairs or an engine swap, you won't loose your shirt.  

Thanks for the advise, I offered him $750, then $850 last night but he said he was firm on 1k.  With all the cleaning & the interior being rough, I'm passing. I did price an engine at $600 - but I just don't want to bother now.
I have my eyes on a 99 Vitara that runs - needs brakes & rocker panels, but it was well looked after, clean inside & out. $1k
(and it's the same color as my old 2 door!!  )

Dave

I ended up getting a 2000 GV  It's in pretty good shape 

Hey guys, fordem and Novadon, looks like I have to change the Crank Position Sensor. LOL can't see it but I am aware of its location. What should I take off to get at it? The book sz its a 2 1/2 hr job but I believe the rad at least has to come out. Any tips?

looks like I have to change the Crank Position Sensor

It's right by the front pulley. This pic is from under the engine.







It is tough to access. What makes you feel that it is bad? They are pretty bullet proof lil' pick ups. Sure that you don't have a wire or connector issue instead?

ECL showed a 0335CPS code on my home style code reader,I moved the wires around a bit then it changed to an 0300 random misfire. The light is on steady at idle and blinks at hiway speeds. The truck runs A1 tho', it's an `03 ZR2 with about 70K miles on it
Took it to a friends shop and he put his commercial reader on it, SZ it's either the sensor , the wire or the ecm.
There's an electrical test you can do at the connector, going to try that first. If a wire is broken, I think it will mean an r/r to fix it.
Sorry to hijack this thread, but you two seem to have the right info