Hey All,
     I am hoping someone has experienced this before and knows the answer. I have a 93 Sidekick 1.6l w/ 16v MPI 4spd AT 4x4. I started having a problem about 3 weeks ago. It would run fine but when I pulled up to a stop sign or red light the rpm's would drop to nothing & almost stall. Now it is fine when I first start it cold. Other than that it wont idle. When I attempt to drive it the only way to keep it running is there is a "sweet spot" in the throttle. If I try to give it more throttle the engine "bogs" down and the rpm's drop. I have replaced the cap, wires, rotor and plugs. I replaced the fuel filter also.

Since I bought this in March the Check Engine light hasn't gone out. It stays on all the time. I never gave it a thought since it ran so well and got 25mph around town and 30 mph on the highway. I have tried the paperclip jumper (I have the 4 wire plug under the hood near the battery) but the check engine light doesn't flash it just stays on no matter how long I sit there with the key on.

Any ideas would be great.  Thanks

XL cut a length of wire to use as a jumper. I used a wire paperclip and it was some sort of junk metal, when I used a wire it worked great. My 93 4 door 4x4 with the auto trans had blown a 60 amp fuse under the hood. When I replaced that it ran and didnt go into safe mode but is still missing on number 3 cyl. So Im looking to replace or rebuild the ECM.


                               Ed

Thanks Ed. I didn't think of the conductivity of the paperclip. I have some small solid copper wire and will give that a try tomorrow. I am also going to pull the EGR and see how plugged up it is and test it to make sure its opening and closing.


KX  (Jim)

The paperclip probably isn't the problem.  I use them all the time and they work fine (but maybe I am using high quality paperclips  ).
The problem on why the CEL won't flash is probably because the reset switch under the dash needs to be flipped to the other position.  The switch is screwed to the backside of the dash, between the steering column and the drivers side radio speaker.  If you lay on your back, in the drivers floor board, and shine a light on the backside of the dash, you can sometimes see it.  Otherwise, you just have to use your hand and feel for it.  It is about 1" by 1/2" rectangle overall and the actual switch is maybe 1/8" by 1/4".  It is a 2 way switch, so just flip it to the opposite position it is now...DON'T flip it and then flip it back.
Get the switch flipped and see if the CEL goes out.  If it doesn't, then you can check for codes and get them fixed, before worrying about anything else.

Thanks Sky. I found the switch and flipped it and the CEL went out. I installed the paperclip and got code 14 (1 flash pause 4 flashes). Checked a couple online forums and they both said code 14 was ECT fault V too high (14 ECT Sensor Circuit  Engine Coolant temperature sensor, too high  V(oltage)). Does this sound right to anyone? Not that i doubt the fabulous OBD1 computers but would the ECT sensor cause these problems???
 

Yes, mixture info is important, and a bad coolant sensor in this case
sounds like the engine is running rich and stays that way

Wild

Very true Wild. Cold motors do use a richer mix until they warm up and thats when the problems start.

Can you smell if the exhaust is also rich? that would be a quick
confirmation of the OBD complaint as well

The low idle/stalling at stop lights and a miss that won't go away are symptoms of clogged/restricted EGR passages.  Not saying that is the problem for sure, but it is a possibility.  The fix is to clean the complete EGR system.

Replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor. Now getting code 34 Mass Airflow Sensor.

Add code 44 to that list also (TPS). Fortunately for me I happen to know a junk yard that has a Zuke way down in back. Hopefully I can pirate the sensors fairly reasonably. Honestly I don't know if they know its there LOL.

EGR is getting ripped out tomorrow and cleaned and tested.

Replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor. Now getting code 34 Mass Airflow Sensor.

Is it plugged in good?  I'd test the wiring, before I'd just replace it.

Add code 44 to that list also (TPS). Fortunately for me I happen to know a junk yard that has a Zuke way down in back. Hopefully I can pirate the sensors fairly reasonably. Honestly I don't know if they know its there LOL.

EGR is getting ripped out tomorrow and cleaned and tested.

Have you adjusted the TPS?  I'd do that and check the wiring, before I'd replace it.

To clean the EGR system entails more than just pulling the EGR valve off and cleaning it.  You need to clean the passages in the head and intake as well.  There is a passage that runs from the exhaust manifold, through the back of the head, to the EGR valve.  There is another passage that runs from the EGR valve into the intake. 
A stiff wire and lots of brake cleaner and compressed air works pretty good for cleaning the passages.  An old broken cable (like a speedo cable) works pretty good too (probably better than the wire), if you have an old one around.

Is there easily obtained documents online for voltages and such. I can't seem to find any schematics or much else for info other than here.

kick-fix.com has decent info.