Currently I have stock leaf springs, but SPOA. I am looking for about 1-2 inches more and a plusher smoother ride. Any idea on what are some good springs?

Wrangler (YJ) springs. 

IMHO-they ride smooth, but they have too much spring wrap for me.  I also think that they raise the vehicle too high.  A SPOA with 32-33" tires is perfect for the stock Samurai wheelbase.

What size tires do you want to run?

Trail Tough YJ missing link kit.
Better ride and more flex.

I added a second main leaf to the 5 pack springs on each corner and it made spring wrap a non-issue.

Here is how mine sits with 31" tires. Rides good, flexes decent, and spring wrap is not an issue.

Your TT looks really nice, but IMHO, it is way too high for the tire size.  I also had the 5-leaf packs and had a lot of spring wrap, much more than the standard springs SPOA.

Your TT looks really nice, but IMHO, it is way too high for the tire size.  I also had the 5-leaf packs and had a lot of spring wrap, much more than the standard springs SPOA.

Really ?? .. more than a few people have told me I should leave it on 31" tires when I tell them I will be going to a 33" tire next....
They quit making these tires in a 31" so I will have to go to a 33" tire if I want to stay with this brand/model of tire, which I plan on.

My spring packs are not the 5-leaf packs you are talking about. Mine are 5 leaf packs with a second main spring (eyes cut off) and slid into the pack. This is how I got around the spring wrap issue and still do not run any axle wrap bar.

I have not read much about people bitching about the YJ setup. Most people wish they had done it sooner, love the flex and the ride. I guess this is a first for me. Alot of guys if they have spring wrap issues just run a bar such as the Spidertrax bar and then have zero issues.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/suzuki/samurai/suspension-parts/spidertrax-anti-wrap-kit.html

According to Trail Tough -
They are saying the spoa kit is good for up to 31" tires and the YJ kit is perfect for 33" tires.
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=38&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53
http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=36&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

My vote would still be for the YJ springs but it would look funny on stock tires SO maybe go back to spua and YJ if you are going to run a small tire.

Yes, YJs do ride nice.  I just had the 5-leafs out of 4-cyl YJ too, so no custom pack.  I also had the Spidertrax bar and bent my axle housing like a pretzel at Moab 2005.  After that, I ditched the YJs and went back to stock springs.  I guesseted the new axle housing on top and in the back, but have never put the bar back on since the YJs.  I just took the rig out to Moab this past spring, and I didn't have any real problems with axle wrap.  

Yes, you easily have enough lift for 33" tires.  If I was going to run YJs, it would be to fit 33" tires, but I think you could run 33" tires with stock springs SPOA with a little bit of sheetmetal seam tweaking.  I'm not totally against YJs though.  I have a LWB project that I plan to run 6-packs in the rear, 5-packs in the front with 33" tires.

IMHO, I wouldn't even go SPOA unless I wanted to go with something above 31" tires as they will fit with a 3" spring lift SPUA.  I like to keep my Samurais as low as possible-just enough lift for the tire size.  They perform much better on/off-road as they have a lower center of gravity.  32=33" tires-go SPOA.

I am currently running 30s, but I would like to fit some 32s. I was thinking of just getting some rear springs off another samurai and running rear springs in the front and rear. Than just getting Petroworks heavy duty shackles. I just want something with a little more flex than I currently have but still be able to drive it on the street

I think you could run 33" tires with stock springs SPOA with a little bit of sheetmetal seam tweaking.  I'm not totally against YJs though.

I ran my SJ-410 originally with a straight SPOA, fender trimming in the rear and a pounded in front fender.  I did run an additional long spring in my spring packs though, to make sure that the spring did not gain any negative arch.  Most SPOA builds tend to have a bit of negative arch to the springs after a while.  Worked great with some 33x12.5 BFG Mud Terrains.  When I switched to an RUF and some Pro-Comp Xtreme-MTR's though the tires rubbed on the front, so BRD HNTR helped me cut up the front fenders to better fit.

Original SPOA:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z7yQ7o6qyL8/SlQVvmFRsSI/AAAAAAAAEvo/-5fnZynqBlU/s912/DCP_0059.JPG

SPOA with RUF:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BcvMYCDD9Cc/RlcgoLeH06I/AAAAAAAAAH0/xPcecdgM0qg/s912/PICT0355.JPG

Front Fenders Trimmed:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-dnVa7BCeNjQ/RwB-wgKmqYI/AAAAAAAAAw0/81eVZlnt9KE/s912/CIMG4318.JPG

On a note from each step of the conversion:

SPOA was choppy, RUF conversion made a HUGE difference in ride quality.  Switching to a 4-link on the rear just took it the next step, it is great to drive down the road now.  Just need to start taking it out more...

Yes, the RUF do make a big difference in ride quaility.  Did you keep the stock frame mount location and running missing links or extend the frame for the front shackles?  It looks like your axle is forward an inch or slightly more.

I ran a hybrid RUF pack for a while with the RRO kit.  Unfortunately I couldn't move the axle forward an inch (even with their adapter plate which just places the axle back the stock location) without redrilling the spring/axle centering pin hole.  A machinist friend advised me against drilling the hole, so I went back to the stock front springs which actually gave me clearance at the back of the wheelwell.  However, I do have a good bit of negative arch now, so I'm looking back at the RUF or a hybrid front spring back. 

I made my own folding shackles when I did the RUF conversion.  For the shock towers we used a cut down set from a mid-90's F-250 to use stock F-250 shocks which give me close to 11" of travel.  You used to be able to find them at any Ford dealership, not sure about now.  Then added a 1" drive-line spacer to the front.

An alternative to using a folding shackle setup is to make a new shackle mount 3" further forward on the frame, that way you can just use your existing shackle.  Since the rear spring is 3" longer you will slide your axle 1.5" further forward. 

If your picking up a set of rear springs then just steal the long second spring from your front spring pack.  That should get rid of your reverse arch and not effect your spring rate to badly.  Or you can get your springs re-arched, we have done that in the garage as well using a pipe bender and a large hammer.

Yes, the missing links aka folding shackles.  I thought that is what you had from the pictures.

I already have the Ford Shock towers.   

I'll probably try to drill a new center pin hole-an inch forward of the stock one.  Seems like the easiest thing to do and I believe that IZook.com had an article on doing that.