Guys, I need some help. I've got a 1.3 with a .030 bore HC pistons with new rings and a new oil pump. The head is a 1.6 with a 272 cam, heavy duty valve springs that was shaved just enough to clean it up. It has a 32/36 Weber that seem to be dialed in pretty good. Everything in the block and head are new and so is the carb. I took the egr valve off and made a block off plate since the carb would eliminate it anyway. I have oil pouring out of the tail pipe. The manifold is now cracked and with it off you can clearly see oil in the exhaust ports on 3 and 4. The plugs on 3 and 4 are covered in oil and 2 is a little wet but 1 is dry and looks good. I pulled the egr valve hose off trying to eliminate that much. Its pouring smoke like an old time bug truck and I'm about out of options except for thinking I have bad rings in 3 and 4 cylinders. I did a compression check and have 170 lbs on 3 and 4 and 165 on 1 and 2. Please tell me someone has an idea of whats wrong.

Oil ring upside down or stuck... just a guess...

Thanks, that's what I was afraid of.

I used break in oil inside of my ring compressor and when I tightened it up it turned my oil rings 180 which lined them up perfectly. NO way that could've happened again. I cleaned the compressor put the rings in and she runs great except for valve chatter. I've got a highspeed cam and set the valves on .039 then .037 and still have chatter. Has anyone got one of these cams and what did you set the valves on. Thanks.

Don't know about the setup specs on that paticular cam, but .037 sounds like a lot of gap. .005/.006 is normal for a 16V when cold. I imagine the 1.6 8 Valve head is similar. I'd have to check my FSM and can get back to you later this evening.

Thanks. I adjusted them to .007 intake and .008 exhaust. Took alot of the chatter away but still have a little, I just don't know what they should set on because of it being a bigger cam.

That's when you ask the supplier of the cam.

They told me .039.

"They" must be smokin somthin. I've installed cams in a few different engines and almost always the stock settings are recommended. The clearance between the heel or flat side is not going to change regardless of the lift height or aggressiveness of the cams profile. Set them to stock specs, .005/.006 cold. The specs for that cam would be helpful, but they're not really necessary for setting valve lash. Unless that cam has some kind of HUGE lift, or it's made from some crap steel that expands like a hot dog cooking on a grill, in which case it wouldn't even idle and couldn't be practical for a rig driven on the street or trail, I say ignore those guys, but heah, that's just my opinion.

One more thing, is the spec they told you in inches or milimeters? either way it's freakin big.

My 2 bits of 1.3L experience....

1st, when cold, especially in winter, it will sound like a direct injection diesel until it warms up. (Valve Lash)

2nd, could be BAD NEWS.... put a timing light on and see if your timing is "Floating"?
        This could be the sure signs of a dreaded Crank Key-Timing Belt Drive Sprocket "Waller-ing Out" problem !!!!
There are past posts on this common failure!!

You mentioned a radical cam set-up which could stress the drive key.

CAPT

Not sure who "they" is but if in doubt call the cam manufactuer. In most cases any questions you ask will be and can be quickly and professionally. JMO $.02  

Thanks for the input. I set them to .05 and .06  backed my timing down a bit and got rid of the chatter at idle but when reved up a bit not sure no tach, it makes almost a rattle sound. I first thought it was the header making the noise but not sure now because I got the rest of my exhaust on and it sounds like it's coming from the head, any ideas. I'm going to put a timing light on it tomorrow. After tearing it back down to reinstall a new set of rings I double checked everything twice. I know I put this thing together right except for my compressor spining the rings but can't figure out what the racket is. The machine shop assembled my head, I asked him how everything fit and he said like it should but when he came outside and I reved it up he said it almost sounds like the cam is loose. Any ideas?

It's pretty hard to diagnose a noise without hearing it. A " rattle" not the ticking of valves or followers? Rocker shaft loose? a loose cam or ill fitting cam in the journals could do that.

Ok, here's what i'm going to do. I'm pulling the 1.6 head and putting my good 1.3 head on with new valve seals and the high speed cam out of the 1.6 in with regular valve springs on the motor. The timing was spot on but the rattle is still there right about the time you shift into the next gear and not making the power I thought it would. I had one 1.3 with a weber and header and one with a torquer cam and carb and both were making more power than the .030 HC piston block and high speed cam 1.6 head that I've got now.

 Let me know how this turns out. I wanted to put a 1.6 head an cam on my 1.3 block. After reading your post it doesn't seem like such a good idea.