Here is 2.5 days of work.  That does include building the header (2nd go-around), drain pipe in the oil pan installed, re-assemble engine and dropping it back in the bay, plus the exhaust down pipe built. 



A bit of vac tubing with a slit in it to trim things out for the snorkel.


Snorkel connection. My only fear is this giving me some trouble with the motor moving side to side.  Really need some type of slip style joint that is air tight.

Are you running methanol?
I'm curious what your intake temps would be on the trail with out a cooler. Personally I would put a water to air cooler on top the driver side wheel well and use the cold side of the radiator for the "cold water". I would also ditch the clutch fan for an electric (if you haven't already).

Don't have any ideas for your snorkel joint besides a 3 or 4 inch coupler, or a solid driver side motor mount.

The intake piping looks good. Are you going to paint it?

I think I already asked you this, but do you plan on wrapping the exhaust bits inside the engine bay?

Obviously I think the next chapter this project needs to put in its past is heat control.

And then my last observation is. If you ever decide you want to damn near submerge this thing in water, I would address that filter on your valve cover.

Good luck with everything,
Parker.

Are you running methanol?

Not right out of the gate.  That will be my plan if temps become a problem though.  Thats by far what makes the most sense with what I want to accomplish which is a fast spool.

I'm curious what your intake temps would be on the trail with out a cooler. Personally I would put a water to air cooler on top the driver side wheel well and use the cold side of the radiator for the "cold water". I would also ditch the clutch fan for an electric (if you haven't already).

Yes I will be curious also.  I have not welded in my intake air temp port or the blow off valve.  Once the basics are finished, I will have a better idea on whats needed from there.  I will be able to see temps with the laptop hooked up.  I have a larger radiator that I may try squeezing in along with an extra electric fan.  I have some options there also like mounting the fan out front to push as a backup to the clutch fan.


Don't have any ideas for your snorkel joint besides a 3 or 4 inch coupler, or a solid driver side motor mount.

The intake piping looks good. Are you going to paint it?

Yeah black... I went with 16g steel pipe.  Cheaper and its not a show truck... it will be mud stained!

I think I already asked you this, but do you plan on wrapping the exhaust bits inside the engine bay?

Once I see how temps effect things, I will go from there.  I have heard negatives on the wraps.  I dont want to risk insulating my manifold and causing cracks/leaks if I can get some better airflow from a hood scoop or head shrouds.  Im already curious how long my MIG welds will endure.  I may add a brace from the exhaust flange to the turbo to help hold some of the weight/leverage of the turbo and piping.

And then my last observation is. If you ever decide you want to damn near submerge this thing in water, I would address that filter on your valve cover.

Yeah good point.  I never "plan" to swamp the engine but thinking ahead will save some aggravation. I need to make a plug and air test all my intake-side piping just in case.

I thought of adding screw in drain plug to the snorkel. Although I did slope both sides of the piping from snorkel to turbo downhill towards that fender connection.

With the way you have the air intake routed you could put an inter-cooler just above the intake from your snorkel.  Put a Subaru style hood scoop off-set to the drivers side.   

Ha that would be nice.  I wonder how much those cheaper smaller coolers lower intake temps. versus the +/- 1psi pressure loss. I had rather spray meth/water.  If I wasn't running MS I may think differently but this thing has too many goodies that make this sort of thing a breeze.

 

I think your stuff looks pretty damn good.  Clean and simple. A  silicon coupler would work as a connector for your intake.
 My experience with the air to liquid after cooler was so so. It did offer some cooling, a decent amount for the small area  heat exchanger I was running. The alc/h20  or meth injection will cool the charge MUCH better, and at 1/3 the cost and complication of an A to L setup.
No electric fan made ( that fits in the space we have anyway) will cool a turbo motor better than the stock fan with shroud. I can send you a nice 16" flexalite with custom aluminum mounts that drop right into the stock mounting holes for the shroud if you really want to try it. Really. 
As for running the coolant through the " cool " side of the Rad, why add a couple hundred degrees to the air your trying to cool?
Whatever you decide on for charge cooling remember this: If your at max boost for more than 20 seconds your either doing 120mph and looking for a way to stop, or about to blow up your engine. 20 seconds of either meth or alc/h20 probably costs .25 cents after you build the simple pump, add the injector and plumb it off your washer res. You'll never get the charge THAT cool using an inter cooler at the relatively slow speeds we normally drive these trucks ( 65/75) As for off road running with the turbo, heat from the turbo is not really an issue. Your rarely on boost off road, unless it's desert maybe.
With meth or alc injection you also get the added benefit of adding the equal of 10 rm points to the grade of fuel your running, effectively upping the octane to race fuel levels, preventing knocks.
One more thing, If your in water so deep your engine's submerged, buddy you'll have plenty of other stuff to worry about besides that little filter on the valve cover. Like where's the freakin life jacket! 

As for running the coolant through the " cool " side of the Rad, why add a couple hundred degrees to the air your trying to cool?

My thoughts exactly.

You always have some good insight and where better to get it from someone's whos been there! Our opinions of cooling are the same. Also adding H20 reduces carbon emissions and adds to the MPG for what thats worth.  Probably get my .25 sprays u mention back on gasoline! I was sold a long time ago on this concept.

I think your stuff looks pretty damn good.  Clean and simple. A  silicon coupler would work as a connector for your intake.
 My experience with the air to liquid after cooler was so so. It did offer some cooling, a decent amount for the small area  heat exchanger I was running. The alc/h20  or meth injection will cool the charge MUCH better, and at 1/3 the cost and complication of an A to L setup.
No electric fan made ( that fits in the space we have anyway) will cool a turbo motor better than the stock fan with shroud. I can send you a nice 16" flexalite with custom aluminum mounts that drop right into the stock mounting holes for the shroud if you really want to try it. Really.  
As for running the coolant through the " cool " side of the Rad, why add a couple hundred degrees to the air your trying to cool?
Whatever you decide on for charge cooling remember this: If your at max boost for more than 20 seconds your either doing 120mph and looking for a way to stop, or about to blow up your engine. 20 seconds of either meth or alc/h20 probably costs .25 cents after you build the simple pump, add the injector and plumb it off your washer res. You'll never get the charge THAT cool using an inter cooler at the relatively slow speeds we normally drive these trucks ( 65/75) As for off road running with the turbo, heat from the turbo is not really an issue. Your rarely on boost off road, unless it's desert maybe.
With meth or alc injection you also get the added benefit of adding the equal of 10 rm points to the grade of fuel your running, effectively upping the octane to race fuel levels, preventing knocks.
One more thing, If your in water so deep your engine's submerged, buddy you'll have plenty of other stuff to worry about besides that little filter on the valve cover. Like where's the freakin life jacket!  

Do you know somewhere to get a pump that will do the job properly without costing an arm and leg for an ebay kit? Also what do you use for a boost sensor.

Zuki,
Makes tons of sense about the exhaust tape cracking the manifold, didn't think of that. The only manifolds/headers I have experience with are manufactured ones. And the only time I've used the tape is once heat became an issue with a turbocharged street car.

I knew something was still looking a bit off, the bov totally went over my head. I'd recommend getting a recirculating bov if you haven't already decided on an atmospheric. Way less rice and better response.

I would not plug the hole on the valve cover. Maybe I read something wrong, the hole is needed to relieve crank case pressures.

Bentparts,
Really, being off road you should hardly see boost? Whats the point in turbo'n an off roader in the first place then? Cruising from section to section I could see around idle rpms, but if that's off roading than my grandma in her accord qualifies. Seriously, whats the point in adding a turbo in a Suzuki 4x4 if your not going to be using it off road? Why would the OP want such a fast spool? Regardless, giving it the beans (I assume Florida can get muddy) is gonna make a lot of heat. I too think methanol injection would be easiest, best bang for the buck, that's why it was my first question. Personally why someone would stop there and not go E85 is something else...
I'd call you a fool if you really thought the charged air isn't going to be affected by the cold side of the radiator. Plenty of manufacturers use this technique to cool the hot air and while I can't tell you exact cold side temperatures of the rad. operating temperature is 212d so the radiator has to be a good 50d cooler which isn't even a "couple hundred degrees" in the first place. Compare that to the 1300d exhaust gasses heat soaking the turbo and your not adding a couple hundred degrees by ANY stretch of anyone's imagination. But hey apples to bananas.

Personally when I see a snorkel my mind automatically goes to this video.

Farley quarry 20/5/07 suzuki sj water

edit* about your 20 second 120mph comment.
I think this is misleading. Only straight line racers hold there foot down for up 20 seconds and their turbos make lots of heat up top. This tiny turbo will make heat in the 3000 rpm + range. And when a you have to retry a line over a few times 3000 - 4000 rpm is expected. You can be in first gear and still get the turbo almost as hot as 5th gear, 120mph. I know you know this but, engine rpm is related to the turbo, not the transmission.
And I agree with "You'll never get the charge THAT cool using an air to air inter cooler at the relatively slow speeds we normally..."

Do you know somewhere to get a pump that will do the job properly without costing an arm and leg for an ebay kit? Also what do you use for a boost sensor.

Try searching on which year Ford F150 external fuel pump.  Seen this in a post online ...$30-35 I think from your parts store.  I would not buy any "kit".  They wanna sell you on that its going to take 150-250psi pump when all you really need is maybe 100psi unit if your running lower boost (-20psi).  Of course the more psi the pump, the finer it will mist the water/meth.

I have not started gathing info as Im still trying to get my turbo plumbed.  If you get a 100psi fuel rated pump (of sorts), you can find a cold start injector from a boneyard as one option.  Use the factory water tank and your dash light will let you know when its low.  This route of course is at the sacrifice of your windshield cleaning!!

I knew something was still looking a bit off, the bov totally went over my head. I'd recommend getting a recirculating bov if you haven't already decided on an atmospheric. Way less rice and better response.

Yeah I have a Greddy Type S style BOV that does recirc.  I wont use the recirc. for now though... I WANT that BOV sound heh.  It will shock a lot of people at the mud bogs!!  Youtube "samurai turbo"... few nice ones out there with non recirc BOV and its not too loud but sounds pretty cool.