I'm searching but not having much luck. I am getting information from 2004 - is it the same today?

I just want to know if I can purchase a GV carrier from Trail Tough would I need to modify anything else or can I pretty much use everything from the stock aluminum carrier and drop it into the new GV carrier.  So far it looks like a simple bolt on after that from what I have read so far.

Do I need to change axle shafts or anything?

Give these two articles a read:

http://zukiworld.com/month_020103/feature_frontendupgradeswithhagen.htm

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_110103/feature_zigsbeef.htm

You can also modify a Samurai carrier with a bit of work.  BRD HNTR and I both are running modified Samurai carriers up front.

Update - Brent at Trail Tough let me know "The mount needs to be modified where the 3rd member mounts to the cross member. The existing gears and internals fit."

Anyone know of a professional near Fontana, CA that could help me out?  Shop or member or ?

Thanks

Turns out it is the housing that needs to be replaced.  Cracked all the way around.  The mounts held up
This would be the reason you go to steel

I wonder how much I can get for the Aluminum at a recycling center?

Nice crack!  I'm going to see how the aluminum holds up on the White Rabbit.  What were you doing when you broke it?

I'm pretty sure RJkick is the same guy that " lost " a couple of CV's, like lost as in fell out or broke off. Something is Definitely not right with his front end here. The way that his housing is cracked it doesn't look like the normal twisting that would shear off the mount. Looks like the long side is flexing, maybe the mounting brackets for the diff drop are somehow compromised. If he swaps to the steel parts, I'm concerned that the breakage will just occur somewhere else.
FWIW, even with an ARB locker in the front, and 32" tires I've NEVER broken any front diff parts. Maybe it's because I made my own diff drop mounts that actually fit the mounting holes correctly, use much stiffer urethane bushings and strapped down the rear mounting. There is virtually no flexing in mine at all. A bit more vibration is felt, but it's worth the trade off. 

I'm building up a GV steel carrier right now, with the gears from my old aluminum housing and an ARB air locker. I switched to 26 spline axles while I was at it.

It was really a pain in the neck to find, ended up pulling one form a rusty 2000 V6 5 speed over 2 days with hand tools... but saved hundreds of dollars over buying new off a website.

The one I have had some air engage 4x4 feature, I just plugged the hole in the bottom of the diff and threw all the internal stuff in the garbage.   

Mount Changes - I have altered ego diff drop brackets and everything lines up good, the only difference is there are four bolt holes in the carrier on the passenger side for the mount and only 3 bolt holes in the carrier for the drivers side mount. I'm getting close to installing all this stuff now and will post up pictures in my build thread when I do.

 

 

FWIW, even with an ARB locker in the front, and 32" tires I've NEVER broken any front diff parts. Maybe it's because I made my own diff drop mounts that actually fit the mounting holes correctly, use much stiffer urethane bushings and strapped down the rear mounting. There is virtually no flexing in mine at all. A bit more vibration is felt, but it's worth the trade off. 

How about some pictures of those mounts?

I am on my 5th axle within a year.  Salton Sea washes and some dirt with a few whoops have been my off roading use the last year.  I was really hoping to alleviate the front end issues with a steel housing, still trying to acquire one, but now I'm going to start looking deeper into the issue.

Bentparts - Compromised how?  Bent, broken, etc. 
Would that also cause an issue with the driver's side axle? 
1st time it just wouldn't engage and it was the cage, 2nd time it grenaded out, 3rd time it pulled out of the housing, and the 4th time it pulled out of the boot\housing but still intact - I was told a swift axle was just as long as a sidekick by the parts desk

The last time the shaft broke I strapped it up and continued the trail ride.  Rocks and sand and a small hill - I'm sure this contributed to the problem.  Which may have been how the cracked got all the way around the housing

If I do find an issue elsewhere in the front suspension would it be easier to just use another aluminum housing? thoughts?

thanks for the input as always it helps me out

what is your current setup, mod wise, tires, lift etc.?

 

I'm pretty sure he's running the Calmini 3+3, but bought the truck with it already installed If I remember correctly. RJ, is this correct?
 
Rj, I'm also pretty sure the type of off roading your doing has NOTHING to do with the way your truck keeps dropping front axles. That's the kind of driving anyone can do with a STOCK Trackick and not have problems. There has got to be some anomoly with your front end somewhere. It sucks there isn't a mechanic experienced with these trucks and their lift options available in your area. It's pretty hard to diagnose the culprit of such baffling axle problems over the internet, But I would suggest checking the diff mounts for looseness or broken /missing parts, checking the complete front end for damage to the crossmember or bending too.  Make sure all the mounting points for the front diff are still square (compared to fixed points on the frame.) 
As far as a "Swift " axle, all I can say is WTF?  A Swift is a FWD with a much smaller engine, completely different trans mounting and has nothing to do with this issue. Find another parts source.

Fordem, I did post some pics long ago of my home made diff drop brackets and rear " strap " mount, as well as the modified crossmember mount. It'll take me  some time to find them, but I'll look.

Calmini\OME 4.5" Susp. lift, 3" body lift, OME962 springs in front with 3/4" spacers OME955 in rear with 1.75" spacers OME N103S struts ProComp MX6 Shocks 31X10.50 Nexen M\T   Thorley Header   2" exhaust,  Front - Trans - and Transfer skid plates, Custom Fab Bumpers and recently limit straps mouted from the frame to the lower A-Arm

I have had this setup for a few years with the OEM axle shaft but when it failed. It wouldn't engage so I had it replaced.  Not one problem for years and then the axle shafts started failing but only the driver's side and now the cracked housing.  I am going to check for bent, broken and missing pieces but I'm hoping the issue is going to be solved with the new limit straps and housing.  I haven't even had the chance to go off road after the straps were installed.

Again - Thanks to Bentparts for that idea as well

Checked last night for any compromised, bent, and\or broken components or bracketry up front.  I couldn't find anything wrong.  I'm going to keep looking but I also ordered the XL7 steel housing - hopefully this will end the front end issues for awhile

There is probably a connection between the axles and the housing going. The housing could have been slightly damaged and then started to allow the axle to tweak a little taking them out and then also eventually causing the total failure of the housing. 

RJ, you say you have a combination of front end parts, do you have the diff drop brackets installed? With that much lift ( OME springs should give you about 2" and a 3/4" spacer shoud net another 1-1.5 ") that would put you in the CV breakage range without a differential drop. Maybe you can post a pic of your front CV's from a few feet away while the truck is sitting on it's wheels in a normal condition.
Also, see if you can move your front diff front to back by wiggling it some. It'll probably move a little, but it shouldn't move much.
If your going to go with the steel front housing you should also , IMO, get the steel front carrier as that is what normally breaks. But hey, normal breakage isn't really your style