I got started messing around with my Samurai today. It's a 1986 tin top all stock but the tires. Here are some pics for reference:












Passenger floorboard:


Underneath:



I found a few other places where there is some light rust. Nothing too substantial. The sunroof is sealed shut with silicone. I believe it was leaking at one point and that's what happened to the passenger floorboard. All the important mechanical stuff works excellently. The compressor and condenser are missing from the A/C. Also, the temperature blender doesn't seem to be operational...or the heater core isn't hooked up as the heat does not work. The steering is extremely sloppy. The seats don't match and neither are mounted correctly. The hood latch cable doesn't work so I have to fiddle with it through the grille to pop it. All simple stuff, looking forward to fixing each.

TODAY I installed an air filter (not replaced) and replaced the valve cover gasket as it had a leak. The previous owner apparently decided to fix a leak with silicone instead of replacing the gasket. Terrible idea. While doing so, I discovered that a bolt holding on the alternator was finger tight at best. Glad I caught that... After that I decided to be very sure the 4x4 worked properly. I put the transfer case into 4wd, crawled underneath, and tried to turn the front drive shaft. It was locked in...however all the bolts retaining the transfer case were also finger tight.  I could rotate the entire transfer case about 20 degrees. Thank God I made my 4 hour trek in this thing when I was driving it home (with no air filter). Anyhow, I tightened them down, checked every other bolt I could find, and called it a day. 

I had a few questions:

-Are my rims stock?
-Are either of my seats factory? If not, what are they out of?
-My speedometer makes a squeak sound when moving. Is this common? Will WD-40 fix it if I can get back there?

Thanks in advance!

I had a few questions:

-Are my rims stock?
-Are either of my seats factory? If not, what are they out of?
-My speedometer makes a squeak sound when moving. Is this common? Will WD-40 fix it if I can get back there?

Thanks in advance!

Aftermarket rims, looks like 7" wide.
No stock seats.

Looks like a good project!

I was wondering if they were CJ rims... Anyone want to trade?

It looks like a fun project.  I'm looking for a Sami right now.  Would love to get a tintop, but may settle for a Sami with a removable hard top.  I like the idea of having the top and doors off when it's nice out.

The body of yours looks to be pretty good, but the interiror looks like a little rough in the pictures.  Just curious, and you don't have to say if you don't want to, but how much did your Tintop set you back?

Thanks,

Rob

Funny you should ask, I actually traded it for a gas powered 2008 EZGo ST Sport II that had been wrecked and dumped by a dumpster behind my place. All the damage was cosmetic, so I fixed it up a bit, changed a tire, and tooled around in it for a bit. Here it is the way I found it:


Here it is after repairs:


Random close-up:


Aaaaaand a video for good measure:

EZGo ST Sport II Off-Road

 I combed Craigslist and eventually found a guy in Plano, TX that wanted a golf cart like mine and was trading this tin top. As a reference, he was asking $2500.  

here is the ad:

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/3017173572.html

I'm not worried about the interior. I plan to pull all the carpet, bed line it with drain holes, replace both seats, and possibly build my own dash. The simplicity of this thing is awesome.

I took the little guy for a spin around in a field today to see if he ran any different with the air filter on. Turns out he does. It idled fine all the time, however, after some time driving, it began to flood (I think). As soon as the gas was blipped, the engine instantly bogged down. If the gas was held down, the engine would die. After quite a few experiments and discovering that the vacuum system has a few disconnected hoses, it was doing the same exact thing. I gave up and decided to do it the old "pour a bottle of X in it and see what happens" method. I bought a bottle of Berryman's B-12 and flooded the carb until it stopped running. I waited a few minutes and cranked it until it started. I repeated, then took it out for a test drive. All systems go. I presume that my quest without an air filter to get it home got something stuck in the wrong position. Here's hoping it doesn't return.

I can't help but notice this staring me in the face on my back glass:


But my Samurai looks like it's stock ride height correct?

Well, I installed a front bumper today and got all the lights working as they should. After that, I took it for a spin in what I call the "testing grounds" behind my place. I drove it around, and all was well. After some time, it began to do the same thing as before where it idles fine, but as soon as I touch the throttle it bogs and almost dies. If I blip the throttle it will slowly work it's way up to higher RPM. If I just floor it, it will either die, or misfire. I believe I have discovered the cause. A heavy smell of burning oil and smoke when this situation occurs from the tailpipe. Again, this only happened after I replaced the valve cover gasket and stopped a massive leak, and also installed an air filter. I'm thinking that I have a leak on one of my valve stem seals. I checked the spark plugs, all of which were clean except for cylinder 2 (second back from front of vehicle) It was black and oily. I would think if it were rings the situation would not come and go as it does, and probably wouldn't surface after sealing the valve cover gasket. I plan on doing a compression test soon to be sure. I cannot seem to find a good explanation of how to properly change the valve stem seals. Anyone nudge me in the right direction before i start pulling stuff apart?

Go to Ack's site & download the factory service manual for your vehicle. It will have the proper procedure for this on part 1 pages 67/68. Be sure to get yourself all 3 parts & save them, you'll need them later. http://www.acksfaq.com/pdfs/86-87sam1_4-22.pdf They have you remove the head to be able to compress the valve spring but, you can do it while its still attached.

How I do it with the head still on:
Remove the spark plugs & insert a length of rope into the spark plug hole that is sufficient to fill the cavity (don't let it fall in all the way). This will hold the valve from falling into the cylinder. You'll need a valve spring compressor tool that you can use from the top.

Like this one.


There is also a write up on this here. http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-diaries-how-to-diy/samurai-8-valve-easy-valve-stem-seal-diy/?PHPSESSID=3ff28db0d8176acf2c14303d1655e140

Here is a video as well. This is for a vitara but will be the same for the sami. The video isn't the greatest but, you'll get the point.
http://www.youtube.com/embed/fZ5nZhDdAMs

A buddy of mine and I pulled an all-nighter and knocked out the lift in 7 hours including a break at Whataburger and a trip to The Home Depot to get new bolts for the rear spring mounts. The bolts were frozen in the sleeve and we had to remove them with a sawz-all and a cut off tool. PICTURES:










Before:


After:


Before:


After:


Thanks to all for your input. I'm very happy with the results so far.  [thumbsup]

What lift did you go with ? Haven't cleaned off the "4-sale" just incase.

The lift looks good.  I see you are already having fun with teh doors off.

You might want to take the "for Sale" stuff off of the windows, someone might make you an offer you can't refuse.

Rob

Ha! Yeah, I've had too many people come up to me and ask what I was asking already...too much other stuff to do. I went with the Old Man Emu 2" lift springs from Low Range Offroad and Gabriel Guardian shocks from Autozone (extremely happy with the results) I took it on some very mild trails today.

Tintin Testing Suzuki Samurai

Paint is on save for the wheels, bumper, and interior.

Decided to take the 4-sale sign off huh?