Hey guys quick question . My samu has a weber 32/36 last year before I parked it  it ran amazing a little rich but lots of power . I replaced my gas tank with a fuel cell, the fuel cell has only a feed line on it an vented cap. The original tank. Had a feed line an return line an vapor line. Now on my fuel cell I plunged the vapor line an the return line cause everyone I know said it wouldn't make a difrence. So I hooked it up drove it down the road an once I hit 30 mph the Sami had no power an was spuddering an what not an stumbling..  was wondering if anyone can tell me if u need to have the return line hooked up on the Webber for it to opporate propporly, an if that could be my problem like at higher rpm there's too much pressure in the bowl on the carb .the truck ran great last year an nothing has changed it idels fine an inlow range 4 wheel drive it goes threw all 5 gears no problem but because of the transferred case gears it will do like 15-20 in 5th.

Is there a breather on that tank? I'd run a return, otherwise you risk flooding out.

Just take the cap off for a quick run it will tell you if you need the vent line or not!

I noticed thY the vacume advance doesn't work when u suck on the line while the trucks running. Is the vac advance nessisary on the samurai to run proper could that cause my loss of power while driving

No - the vacuum advance is more of a fuel economy measure, it'll run fine without it - leave the diaphragm assembly in place to keep the backplate from moving and you can try advancing the ignition timing between 5~10* more, bepending on the grade of fuel you're using.

I took off the vac advance and it is shot, I manually advanced the timng an it ran a lot better at higher Rpms , but I can only manually advance it so much before it runs like shit at lower rpms an won't start if it stalls . So I'm gonna  change it an try it but Low range is the only place I can find one 65 bucks that seems steep . Anyone know another place that sells them an maybe at a cheaper price.

Does the distributor have centrifugal advance and is it working?  The centrifugal advance mechanism is what increases the advance as the rpms increase.

A carburetted engine with no ECU ideally needs a distributor with both centrifugal & vacuum advance, you can get by without the vacuum advance, as I mentioned earlier, it's a fuel economy feature, not having it will just burn a bit more fuel, but the centrifugal advance is a MUST.

I'm not sure what the centrifugal advance would be , how would I find out. I only have one vac line going to it.

The centrifugal advance would be a couple of weights & springs inside the distributor, under the base plate - you should be able to twist the top of the distributor spindle (where the rotor fits) maybe 45* or so relative to the bottom of the spindle (where the drive gear is).