I had some Dynamat and Dynapad left over from a previous project and decided to put it in the Wee Beastie.



That's where I started.



Took out the seats, carpet, and panels.  (I love how simple this thing is compared to a modern vehicle.  12 bolts and I was down to the floor.)



And there's a layer of Dynamat with Dynapad Super-77'd on top.

Just that little bit in the walls and on top of the wheel wells makes a world of difference.  My intention was to just use up that material I had left over but I like the results enough that I ordered more material to do the roof and doors.  It will add 70-75 pounds to the vehicle when I'm done which is a pretty significant amount but I can live with that.  I'm also considering trying some spray foam in the dead space around the rear windows.  Can't think of a reason not to.

I bet that really improves the comfort level. I would just use polyfill in the panels as it is hydrophobic and wont attract or retain water.

Keep a real close eye out for any water intrusion, like leaving a window open or something. I had dynamat on several cars and if ANY water gets inside, the water will find a way to seep under the dynamat and start a corrosion fest. 

I'm not terribly worried about water getting in.  I don't plan to be fording any rivers and I didn't detect any leaks around the windows.  Kinda wish I'd thought to put in some sort of barrier like bedliner or something, tho.  Oh, well.  It ain't comin' up now.    The mat for the roof should show up any minute.  Unfortunately, my pad shipment won't arrive until Wednesday so I'll be stuck fiddling with little things until then.

I'm not 100% if I'll put anything around the windows.  It would probably be overkill.  But I've got a couple cans of Touch-n-Foam Max Fill just sitting on a shelf...

Here is a decent mayhem picture, LOL, it is in the back of my Honda civic project car.


There was no intention of fording rivers either, LOL, but shyt happens............LOL

is the roof insulation a light weight stick-on?

is the roof insulation a light weight stick-on?

I wouldn't call the mat light but it's self-adhesive and commonly used on roofs in hot and cold climates.  It's intended for automotove use.  The pad is lighter and, while not self-adhesive, I've had good results with Super 77 adhesive.  It doesn't degrade either material and stood up to my temperature tests.  If I remember right, it's rated up to 150 F.

I need to do that to my tintop as well.  Although, I think at highway speeds, I get a lot more noise from the front door frames bowing out and causing air gaps around the seal area.

Have you ever played around with LizardSkin? Fantastic stuff! Great for firewalls and roofs, good to 500 degrees.

Some time ago I found a bunch of good info at:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

The site had changed a lot since then, but still seems to have some good information.

I need to do that to my tintop as well.  Although, I think at highway speeds, I get a lot more noise from the front door frames bowing out and causing air gaps around the seal area.

Jesus HOW fast are you going!

I did a half ass-ed job of trying to quiet my tintop down and it helped. Wish I knew then what I just learned now. I'd like to take a crack at the roof but the headliner on mine looks like it would come apart rather than come off if I tried to remove it.

Yeah, the headliner's more of a PITA than I expected.  Wish I'd taken a look before ordering more material.  It's just foam-backed fabric glued to the roof.  I've found a reasonably priced replacement but it's going to be a job to peel off the old headliner and clean up the mess to provide a suitable surface to attach the dynamat.  And I need to find a different adhesive to attach the replacement headliner to the dynapad.  My trusty Super 77 specifically warns against using it on that type of foam.

Oh, well.  Projects rarely turn out as simple as they seem when they're planned.

I would clean it up and lizardskin the roof and then topcoat with whatever color you desire.

I say this for one reason, you can spray 2 pieces of sheet metal with black paint, with one having LizardSkin CI on the back, leave it in direct sun for an hour, the metal without the LS will be hot enough to raise blisters, the insulated sheet will actually feel COOL to the touch! And the reverse applies when a block of ice is put on the metal plate, it doesnt xmitt the cold either.

My civic project car was blasted of any corrosion, chassiesaver applied and then both LizardSkin thermal and sound insulation applied to the entire interior followed by MonstaLiner on the cab floor and spare tire well. It was tomb quiet inside with the windows up and the AC had to barely work at all.

Quote from: Jonny Rash on October 19, 2012, 12:45:13 PM

I need to do that to my tintop as well.  Although, I think at highway speeds, I get a lot more noise from the front door frames bowing out and causing air gaps around the seal area.

Jesus HOW fast are you going!

70mph.  Not that fast. 

Quote from: bentparts on October 21, 2012, 06:14:20 PM

Quote from: Jonny Rash on October 19, 2012, 12:45:13 PM

I need to do that to my tintop as well.  Although, I think at highway speeds, I get a lot more noise from the front door frames bowing out and causing air gaps around the seal area.

Jesus HOW fast are you going!

70mph.  Not that fast. 

It's all relative.  That's pretty dang fast for a Samurai.     You might check for loose bolts, tho.  My doors don't flex or break the seal at that speed.