Hello everyone, I am considering buying some OME springs for my Samurai, just curious if anyone has used them before or if they would or would not recommend them. My Sammy is a daily driver right now and it needs new springs. So I am looking for a little better ride while giving it a bit of a lift. Thoughts?

I've never used them on a Samurai, but, I'd say you'll be very happy with them.

One caution - buy them from someone knowledgeable about the product (Low Range Off Road is where I got mine), and be honest with yourself about your needs - OME springs come in different lifts, and different load ratings - heavy, medium, light - don't go for more lift than you need, or a heavier spring that the load you will normally carry - don't be tempted to get heavy load springs so you can occasionally carry more stuff, and then drive it every day with the vehicle unloaded - the heavy load springs will be way too stiff when unloaded.

Get OME shocks to match the springs you choose, you're going to be tempted here to cheap out here (OME come at a price), and you can find shocks that will fit for less, but OME valves their shocks to match their springs.  Many people will tell you run this shock, run that shock, and sell you a shock that fits based on length, don't fall for it - get the OMEs, they are engineered to work with one another, on that particular vehicle.

Get new shackles, get new bushings, you won't regret it.

I've never used them on a Samurai, but, I'd say you'll be very happy with them.

One caution - buy them from someone knowledgeable about the product (Low Range Off Road is where I got mine), and be honest with yourself about your needs - OME springs come in different lifts, and different load ratings - heavy, medium, light - don't go for more lift than you need, or a heavier spring that the load you will normally carry - don't be tempted to get heavy load springs so you can occasionally carry more stuff, and then drive it every day with the vehicle unloaded - the heavy load springs will be way too stiff when unloaded.

Get OME shocks to match the springs you choose, you're going to be tempted here to cheap out here (OME come at a price), and you can find shocks that will fit for less, but OME valves their shocks to match their springs.  Many people will tell you run this shock, run that shock, and sell you a shock that fits based on length, don't fall for it - get the OMEs, they are engineered to work with one another, on that particular vehicle.

Get new shackles, get new bushings, you won't regret it.

X2 what Fordem said.  If you elect to spend the coin to buy OME... buy their complete vehicle specific designed suspension system which includes their shocks and /or struts.  There is a reason their stuff is a bit pricey.  It's WORTH it!

I highly recommend the OME springs for a Samurai daily driver.  I run the medium rate springs all around, and they perform well on and off road.  The ride is still a little rough, which should be expected for leaf springs all around, but it is better than stock. 

Counterpoint on the shocks: I run the cheapo Gabriel Red shocks with my OME leaf springs and they seem to work well.  Petroworks, which sells OME springs, also recommends the lower cost Gabriel Red shocks.

http://www.petroworks.com/old-man-emu-dakar-1-5-lift-kit-deluxe-kit-by-petroworks/

OK cool, I generally run by the moto "good work aint cheap and cheap work aint good" and I would like to think that also applies to parts. So far that about 4 people who have recommended the lesser expensive Gabriel shocks. What is the price difference?

From what I recall there are only 2-3 manufacturers of traditional automotive shocks.  All the different brand names are simply different marketing angles. 

All four Gabriel Shocks can likely be purchased for the cost of one OME shock.  They are likely built be the same shock manufacturer as well.

In addition, I think the other gentlemen are coming from the Tracker/Sidekick/Vitara point of view.  The Old Man Emu struts are the best on the market for those vehicles, and many of the autopart store variety do not last on a lifted vehicle.  In addition, if you lose a front strut on the trail, it pretty much ends all the fun right there, and it might be difficult to impossible to drive home.  Then you will need to install a new strut and get an alignment.  That is far from the case with losing a shock on a Samurai, where you continue on your merry, but bouncy way.

From what I recall there are only 2-3 manufacturers of traditional automotive shocks.  All the different brand names are simply different marketing angles.

This is a widely discussed & misunderstood concept - regardless of how many manufacturers there are, the products that they sell are not necessarily interchangeable, unless they are sold as OE replacements, which are generally the least expensive of the line, and designed to meet the vehicle manufacturer's original equipment (OE) specification, for use with OE springs.

Old Man Emu (OME) shocks (and struts) are built (by Tenneco I believe) to OME specifications, which, on the shocks (and struts) marketed for Suzukis are distinctly different to the Suzuki OE spec..

It IS possible to pick up an application guide and select shocks based on end fittings and open & closed lengths, but you'll never see any details on damping rates mentioned - those rates, which are determined by the valving, are what differentiates between a ride that is merely firm, or one that is bone jarring - heavier vehicles require more restrictive valving, and that same shock, used on a lighter vehicle, will give a very rough ride.

Shocks (or struts) intended for off road use require different valving to those intended for on road use, especially if the vehicle is going to be used both on & off road - shocks on an on road vehicle will typically see low piston speeds, which requires more restrictive valving, the same vehicle & shock  when used off road will encounter higher piston speeds, which require less restrictive damping - shocks for on road use will typically have fewer stages of damping, off road will have more.

Apart from the valving, there are the issues of construction - wall thickness (off road shocks typically have thicker walls), piston rod diameter (off road shocks typically have larger piston rods), piston diameter, monotube vs twintube (each has it's advantages & disadvantages), high pressure nitrogen, low pressure nitrogen, and the list goes on.

In short - unless you want to become a suspension engineer and figure these details out for yourself, either make sure that person whose advice you're taking, knows their stuff, or buy a package engineered to work together.

I understand that budgets are a necessary fact of life, we're all looking for the best "bang for our buck", but to suggest that because a Gabriel shock is manufactured by the same company as an OME shock, it will be of the same construction quality or suitability for purpose is just misleading.

Before I go, I want to share a comment I came across on another forum this morning ...

There's a big reason why people complain about the cost of OME suspension all the time.  It's because they know what it can do for them, and it's what they want, but can't quite afford...

We are talking about shocks for a Samurai. One of the most crudely engineered vehicles ever marketed in the U.S.A.   

My personal experience-I've run the Gabriel Ryder shocks on lifted Samurais in both SPUA and SPOA configurations for 20 years.  These shocks are lightly valved and are very well suited to the lightweight Samurai. In addition, Petroworks has sold Gabriel Ryders with their lift kits for 20 years, and they still sell them.

I have rarely had a Gabriel go bad, even off-road. If they do, well here in the U.S.A. they come with a lifetime warranty.

If my memory serves me correctly, for the front axle use a Chevy Chevette rear shock. For the rear axle and OME springs, the early CJ5 or FJ40 shock is used.

I can't figure out how to post a pic with the new operating system but I had spoa and changed out to OME spua.  The change was a little more lift than spoa and rides and handles much better.  My original springs for the spoa were probably flat.

The SPOA springs must have had to a seriously reversed arch for the SPUA OME lift to be taller.

My name is Jonny and I am a Zukaholic.  I currently have three, stock springs, SPOA lifted Samurais and two other Samurais with the OME spring lifts SPUA.  The SPOA rigs with stock springs sit considerably higher than those with the OME springs SPUA.

The OME springs do yield more lift than 1-1/2" though.  I would say that it is closer to 2 1/2"-3".  A 3" dropped pitman works perfectly for this lift too.

I was under the impression I could do OME springs SPUA and not have to change anything but disconnecting the sway bars. Do I need a dropped pitman arm?

A dropped pitman arm is not required, but after installing the Old Man Emu lift springs the drag link and tie rod will no longer be parallel. This will result in some bump steer.   

I actually detailed this topic with pictures a couple of years ago on this BBS, however all of those posts were deleted in the system crash earlier this year.

is that easily fixed with a z bar?

With a z-bar you will still have bump steer.  I would run the OME springs with the stock drag link or a drop pitman arm. 

OK, cool thanks Johnny. I will see how well things go once the new springs and shocks are on.