Eric - it's hard to pin down exactly what shifts a review into an infomercial, but I suspect it may relate to an overly positive tone on the part of the reviewer, one that portrays whatever is being reviewed as, so to speak, the greatest thing since sliced bread.
We expect the manufacturers' websites & brochures to never focus on the product shortcomings, but reviewers can and should mention these.
Few products are 100% advantageous/0% disadvantageous, and we, the end users generally recognize that we have to compromise, the decision has to be ours as to if we want to accept whatever short comings a product has in order to get the benefits - I drive a 2.0 (I4), 5 door Grand Vitara (never sold in the US), it could just as easily have been a 1.6 2 door Vitara (consider it a hardtop SWB Sidekick, but with a carb), a 2.0 V6 5 door Vitara (also never sold in the US - think SidekickSport with a V6), a 2.5 V6 5 door Grand Vitara (non OBDII) a Toyota Hilux (again, never sold in the US - think Tacoma), I considered both single & double cab, or a Mitsubishi L200 pickup and the Pajero iO - I know the advantages & disadvantages of them all, and choose what I feel is best suited to my needs.
The 2.0 GV was my first choice, the Pajero iO was second, and I now have one of each.