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timing chain tensioners ?

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Offline greg216

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timing chain tensioners ?
« on: March 22, 2004, 11:40:45 AM »
Hi all. Ive got a problem with my xl7.My dealer says
i broke 3 timing chain tensioner and it caused a oil
leak and ticking from engine.It is a 2002 with2.7 6cyl
dohc. It is a four wheel drive. They want to charge me
1,160 $ to repair. What is a timing chain tensioner
I was wondering if that is a good price for a repair?
I have always had a warranty for big probs but mine
just ran out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
               Thank you Greg
« Last Edit: March 22, 2004, 12:10:12 PM by greg216 »
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Offline greg216

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2004, 12:14:47 PM »
Wow looking at some of your posts i
thought i would have gotten a reply by now
oh well win some lose some.
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Offline Mike71

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #2 on: March 22, 2004, 12:34:11 PM »
this board isnt a huge flow board..certain times of day are just dead so its best to post and come back the next day that way u get some responses

patience =)

i cant tell u how much or really help u at all since i havent had to deal with that

i assume the timing chain tensioner is for the timing chain that moves ur valves...well the cam shaft that moves the valves

just an assumption though..someone will get to u
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Offline greg216

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #3 on: March 22, 2004, 01:07:09 PM »
Thanks used to atv boards a little higher post rate
One of these days i will learn that trait :)
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Offline Samurai_Hamster

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #4 on: March 22, 2004, 01:14:13 PM »
It provides constant tension on the timing chain(s) so that cam timing stays accurate.  This rig has...........3 .........well 4 if you count the chain to the oil pump and it was a known issue with this engine that the tensionsers do break.
Yes, its major bucks, not for the part, but for the incredible amount of labor to get at the bugger.

I am staring at the diagram right now from the FSM and lemme tell you......it looks like a mother to fix.

Good luck.
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Offline greg216

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #5 on: March 22, 2004, 01:45:42 PM »
Thanks for the help .It is beginning to look as if ill
be spending some coin to get it fixed. Looks like
most of you guys enjoy thefour wheeling end of
the suzuki. If i was to try that with our payment
my wife would kill me. :D
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Offline Bobzooki

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2004, 11:43:15 PM »
I did it myself.  Pay the $1,200.

To GET TO the timing chain tensioners you remove (this is from memory).

Intake Manifold
Radiator
Rack & Pinion
Front Diff
Oil Pans
Front Engine cover
Water Pump
Everything, all the way down to the Camshafts on the passenger side - yes, you have to remove one of the camshafts.

Once you're done with this lesson, if you don't want to do it AGAIN in 40,000 miles, run ONLY, ONLY, ONLY, ONLY, ONLY 5W30 oil.  That's 5W30.  Period.  Nothing else.  ONLY 5W30.  Am I getting through to you yet?

If I were you, I would ask for all three of the old tensioners, to prove that they actually DID the work!
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Offline Samurai_Hamster

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #7 on: March 23, 2004, 12:38:16 AM »
I'll go one better......run synthetic oil so that it gets to the tensioners faster in cold weather.

And run a darn good oil filter, like Napa or something and stay thehell away from Fram (uh I mean Scam).
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Offline Bobzooki

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #8 on: March 23, 2004, 12:47:31 AM »
Quote
I'll go one better......run synthetic oil so that it gets to the tensioners faster in cold weather.

And run a darn good oil filter, like Napa or something and stay thehell away from Fram (uh I mean Scam).


No.  ONLY 5W30.  Period.  And FACTORY oil filters.
Look, the dealer did the first timing chain tensioner swap, at 40,000 miles (under warranty), and I had to do it at 80,000.

Read the owners manual - it says use 5W30 OR 10W30, or something like that.  If you run the other weight RECOMMENDED IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL, you WILL trash your tensioners in another 40,000 miles.

Oh, and by the way, there's no way in HELL a broken tensioner will cause an oil leak, unless a piece of it got pounded out the side of the oil pan or something - these things are COMPLETELY contained within the engine.
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Offline Samurai_Hamster

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #9 on: March 23, 2004, 02:17:21 AM »
I said nothing about changing oil weights.  Re read my post please.

Second, there is no requirement from ANY manufacturer that states you HAVE to use their filter.  None. Period. End of sentence.  Full stop.

If that were the case, then why are there numerous aftermarket manufacturers today?  Whom would they sell their products to if said products could not be used on vehicles?

Next, be aware that many of these aftermarket companies are also suppliers to OEM's, like Champion labs for example, maker of motorcraft filters for Ford products.
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Offline Bobzooki

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #10 on: March 23, 2004, 03:55:33 AM »
Quote
I said nothing about changing oil weights.  Re read my post please.

Second, there is no requirement from ANY manufacturer that states you HAVE to use their filter.  None. Period. End of sentence.  Full stop.


Sorry about the misunderstanding.  I equated synthetic to different weight in my mind, for some reason.  I just run the factory filter because I know it's not one of the cheapo's on the market.  Well for the first year or so, you couldn't get a non-factory filtrer, that was approved by the manufacturer - I just never re-thought it.
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Bob

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Offline Yankee Tim

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #11 on: March 23, 2004, 08:16:56 AM »
Quote

Well for the first year or so, you couldn't get a non-factory filtrer, that was approved by the manufacturer - I just never re-thought it.


Sam Ham has doen a bit of work tracking down some filters that actually meet factory spec (with regard to the by-pass valve and the anti-drainback valve.

I think he found that NAPA Gold (not Silver) is good.  They are made by WiX, which is owned by Dana.  Other than that filter, I don't know of any good replacements.

Oh, yeah I do.  P/No. 16510-85FA0.  Factory SGP.  Only filter I've used.  Can't go wrong with it.  And a religous diet of 5w30 (dino, I'll point out), and I'm over 80,000 miles on the original tensioners.

*knock on wood*
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VitZook

Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #12 on: March 23, 2004, 08:24:08 AM »
Quote
I did it myself.  Pay the $1,200.

To GET TO the timing chain tensioners you remove (this is from memory).

Intake Manifold
Radiator
Rack & Pinion
Front Diff
Oil Pans
Front Engine cover
Water Pump
Everything, all the way down to the Camshafts on the passenger side - yes, you have to remove one of the camshafts.

Once you're done with this lesson, if you don't want to do it AGAIN in 40,000 miles, run ONLY, ONLY, ONLY, ONLY, ONLY 5W30 oil.  That's 5W30.  Period.  Nothing else.  ONLY 5W30.  Am I getting through to you yet?

If I were you, I would ask for all three of the old tensioners, to prove that they actually DID the work!


I have recently changed the main tensioner and water pump on my 97 V6. I too was concerned at the amount of stuff you have to remove to gain access and remove the front cover. Guess what... there is another way, I tried it and it worked FINE ! I am a mechanic by trade so I dont want to remove unecessary things.. After you remove the radiator, fan, power steering pump and air con comp you can remove front cover by loosening the 3 accessible nuts on each rocker cover, all of the front cover bolts (heaps of them! dont miss any!) and the sump bolts that screw into front cover. The rocker covers have a rubber gasket so they wont stick, the front cover uses sealant and it will come away from the block with gentle prying and tapping. I also levered the rocker covers slightly to ensure they were seperated. Off it come easily ! Now you have the front of Engine exposed and the two main tensioners are quite accessible. I only changed the main tensioner because it had been updated and the Engine ticked slightly on start up. This one is near water pump. (done 110,000ks) I have used 5W30 Synthetic oil from day one and this is CRITICAL! as the other mail says. Dont use any oil out of the range. The Engine is built like a motorbike and has very fine tolerances, especially in the top end. No evidence of any tensioners breaking in Aust. I checked with Suzi tech. Now for reassembly trick with front cover, after thorough cleaning of all surfaces, file a bevel on the top edges of front cover where it will meet up with the rubber rocker cover gaskets. Smooth off with fine emery and clean well. Apply quality sealant (not silastic!) - Locktite make good ones and gently reinstall cover. It goes in easy! I used a bit of sealant on rubber gaskets as well, this was more for lube as I slid it in. Hope that helps !
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Offline Samurai_Hamster

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Re: timing chain tensioners ?
« Reply #13 on: March 23, 2004, 08:35:48 AM »
I prefer syn oil, 5w30 as the manual states for a couple of reasons:

1.  I personally want oil on the top end soon as possible.  These rigs have camshafts that run in plain bearings cast into the head.  Ie, the are NO replaceable cam bearings per se.  The cylinder head where the cam sits is a very expensive piece of metal to have replaced if the cam gets wiped out.

2.  My rig turns over 3,000 RPM on the highway.  That alone puts tremendous shear stress on the oil.  This shearing of oil reduces its ability to cusion the hammer like blows on the con rod bearings as well as the mains.

3.  I have personally seen with my own eyes, a 94 tracker get rode hard and put away wet.  Its had nothing but synthetic  since approx 30K.  It now reads about 180K on the clock, and compression is within 5% of new!  Nor does it burn oil.  I think this is a combination of good suzuki design as well as damn good oil in there.   This is a friends rig that has yet to see a car wash.  Mother nature washes it for him.

4.  The advantage to NAPA or WIX filters is this.  You will see them only in auto parts stores, not big box super cheap discount stores.  Thus, they are not sold on price like waldo world likes to do with its stuff.  Because it ain't sold on price, there is little pressure from NAPA to push for cost/quality cuts to "make it" in the marketplace.  Purolator is a good second, but my money is on NAPA/WIx filtes any day of the week in any ride my friends.

Tim already pointed out what I dug and dug to discover, that these are damn good units, well made, with silcone drainback valves (where applicable).  SGP is good too, Tokico makes 'em but zuke also sources from another outfit in Japan whose name I cannot recall right now.

If I owned a Jag or rolls, or a beemer, yes, I would run these very same filters on my ride just like I do my zook.
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