I’m thinking about welding up the front differential  on the side kick.
I ran a welded front once upon a time and I remember it being real high maintenance and I told myself I would never do it again. Of course air locker is ideal. Anyways.  I just got twin sticks which of course it’s 2/4 and Hi/ low.
I usually wheel in 2 low and a welded rear differential. So if I keep let’s say the front right hub locked and drive around in 2 Low.  The front would be disengaged and also open from each other but ready for me to get out of a pickle when need be. Usually going over Chris and realizing you don’t want to go down there so you try reverse and then you’re back to spins out your phone has nothing. That’s the plan. And if that’s the case. What  Side of the case is the stronger side?
Cheers
TIM

 I’m thinking about welding up the front differential  on the sidekick.
I ran a welded front once upon a time and I remember it being real high maintenance and I told myself I would never do it again. Of course air locker is ideal. Anyways.  I just got twin sticks which of course it’s 2/4 and Hi/low.
I usually wheel in 2 low and a welded rear differential. So if I keep let’s say the front right hub locked and drive around in 2 Low.  The front would be disengaged and also open from each other.  Simply switching from 2wd to 4wd Will engage the front wheel you choose or both. That’s the plan.
So this is the big question.
What  Side of the case is the stronger side?
Cheers
TIM

What size tires are you running?  From the experience I have read of others having, any form of locking the front diff and the original aluminum parts is a match made anywhere but heaven.  I have wondered about trying the same thing, but I don’t want to try it until I had a spare.

 I’m running 31s on it.
 It’s not the ideal situation. Ideally I would like to scoop up a steel housing  and differential with the samurai four pin carrier:)  I’m on the hunt.
On the flipside though. The problem with an open DIF is that when one wheel starts to spin and then instantly grabs that’s another common CV breakage scenario.

Not sure of the Sidekick.  But my Samy has welded front axle and most trails I would leave 1 hub unlocked until I needed the extra traction.  Turning with a welded front and both hubs locked you will understand the pure fun in turning.  Also running 31's.

Uh, won’t that make it impossible to turn especially in mud?  I was lucky to find a steel carrier for 100$.  As far as which side is stronger I’d imagine the short side is a little stronger.  But I haven’t examined a lot of the failure pics.  I’ve read about bracing straps that can keep the aluminum housing intact longer by preventing movement