Hey Mike, you've got the same black with red trim line paint job I have. You've also got the nasty looking orange/red seat center sections I have too. I swear if there were one thing about the interior I could change that might have to be top on the list.
I need to look for a new soft top too, the rear window cracked in a couple places a few weeks ago. One at the very base of it and the other in the upper left corner. I fixed it ghetto style with duct tape though for now. Ugly, but it works.
While we're on the subject of tops, does anybody have an Astrocap hardtop? If so how do you like it? I don't like the plastic ones like the BestTop ones since they'll warp all to hell here in Phoenix after about 1 summer. Every single one I've ever seen here looks beat to hell.
If I do get the Astrocap one I'll probably end up insulating it or something with styrofoam and laying up a new layer of fiberglass on the inside. I'd maybe look into some 1/2 or 3/4" honeycomb nomex instead so I could stand on the thing if I wanted or needed to.
Honestly, I'm half tempted to try and make a mold out of foam and build my own for the 800-1000 bucks they cost. Then I could make it out of carbon fiber and be the envy of every ricer in town too. Actually I would seriously consider Kevlar since it could be stronger and lighter than one made out of fiberglass and more importantly Kevlar's not as itchy as glass is when you're working with it.
As far as the door removal, you might also be able to use the spring loaded "T" pins with the plunger and the little detent balls that lock into place. They're not cheap but they are about as strong as an actual bolt or pin would be. They're also very high on the cool toy factor too. If you're worried about the steel on steel rubbing you could bush the holes by drilling them out a little bit and putting in some bronze sleeve bushings, call around to industrial supply places in your area to find them. If you don't have one nearby try McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com they probably won't be metric but then again the T pins probably won't be either unless you want to special order them from somewhere like Maryland Metric. I prefer metric in general but there's times when you have to give up on being a purist. (Anytime you're trying to use aircraft grade fasteners and such you have to for instance). Anyway, the bronze bushings are very inexpensive and you could either use the ones with the lip on one end by pressing them in or just the plain sleeves by epoxying them into the drilled out hole. Myself I'd opt for making the lip style bushings work.