Does anybody run a Hawkins dual carb setup? I have  one and my truck hasn't left the stable yet because I keep adding more stuff to it. It's equipped with NOS and I don't think I'll ever use it but it's nice to know I have extra pony power there if I need it. My current problem is I managed to get it to 1,000 rpms on an idle but when I put it in drive it drops off the dial to 500 rpms and sputters unless I put my foot in it. The only thing I think that could be happening is that one carb is taking more fuel in than the other. Running down the road it's great but idle at a stop and I'm cooked! I'm about ready to take a B.F.H. to it.  :-/

Crabby,
did you use a vacuum guage to set the idle screws
on the carbs???

Motorcycles with 4/6 carbs have a multi guage setup to
look at all the vacuum readings at the same time.

Dual carbs run wierd until they are syncronized, the
last ones I did were on a 58 Cadillac, yes a Caddy,
one hot ride too, drove me nuts until I used a guage.

Good Luck

Does anybody run a Hawkins dual carb setup? I have  one and my truck hasn't left the stable yet because I keep adding more stuff to it. It's equipped with NOS and I don't think I'll ever use it but it's nice to know I have extra pony power there if I need it. My current problem is I managed to get it to 1,000 rpms on an idle but when I put it in drive it drops off the dial to 500 rpms and sputters unless I put my foot in it. The only thing I think that could be happening is that one carb is taking more fuel in than the other. Running down the road it's great but idle at a stop and I'm cooked! I'm about ready to take a B.F.H. to it.  :-/

Maybe this will help a bit.

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_050102/feature_dcoesetup.htm

-Eric

if you do not have a vacume gauge you might try a two foot long piece of say 3/8 fuel line to your ear and the other end to the venturi of the barrel that you are tunning and turn the idle mixture screw until you hear the valves slaping the seats x4 and then if you have a small propane torch(don not light it) go back and forth until you get no rpm change between the two carb's and then repeat the first stage.

Maybe this will help a bit.

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_050102/feature_dcoesetup.htm

-Eric

Viola ! ! ! Thanks Eric, I remember seeing that article but couldn't remember where. I did just that today and had an Easton, MD  motor rewind and distributor shop  to reweight and cut back the mechanical stops on my distributor so that I got 12 degrees, or 24 degrees on the crank, of mechanical advance at 4000 rpm.  At 12 degrees BTDC initial, they observed a full 36 degrees of advance at 4000 rpm. Just like your article and to the letter. Not only is it running like a top but on the drive home I did a 30 second shot on the nitrous oxide system and got more kick from a lil' 8 valve than I expected, I pegged it for one mile in 15 seconds.