Ya pretty much used 3" .250 wall square tubing
with a plate welded in the middle, err about 3"
down with a nut welded to it to screw onto the
Sidekick body studs.
Used 10x1.25 mm nuts with thin sholders to weld
on for better penetration
, and the .250 wall tube
is bomb proof, I mean Nuke Bomb proof, overkill,
could be half that and be fine.
I made square plates 3" square, 3 per mount,
6 mounts, each have a hole drilled in the center
to put the stud through, or the welded bolt that takes
the place of the body stud. You can use 3/8" bolts here
as you supply the nylock nuts to put it all back together
with.
The whole thing goes back together with the stock body
rubbers in the stock locations on the frame, but now with your new
body lift spacers on top of em.
.
I think I would have liked round plates instead of square, as they
don't snag on stuff as you turn them into place.
fronts are easier, 4" plate top and bottom, top plate has a nut welded
inside, bottom has a bolt (metric) welded the same length as the bolt
you took out of the stock Kick/Track. Screw the mount into place thru
the rubber and put a bolt in the top to hold the body down.
Go to the rubber hose store, and get some Marine grade exhaust hose
and put it in place of the stock fuel fill hose, extend the steering, watch
the front brake lines so they don't get stretched, in fact remove the bolt
in the steering shaft, your air intake hose now don't fit on the 8V engine
cars and some other lines get a little snug on the pasenger side below
the Battery, emissions evap lines too get a little tight.
Need Help E-mail me, I can get the hose too for you guys that don't
have a good supply for rubber goods.
