hey all a few q's,
 has anyone heard of these 1" throttle body spacer and an under drive pulley for the main belt on kicks and trackers, i found a guy that is selling them and im wondering if it would be a good choice or not? would i see any hp gains? does any body have these installed on thier rig. let me know.  thanks
   shane

They work great on a small block or big block chevy with an overdrive trans where it runs at 1800 rpm's doing 60, the spacer brings the engines power band down a little bit so you can drive slower and retain the same horse power. the pulley slows down the water pump and the acc. not the alternator it comes with a smaller pulley to speed it back up.if you are running an eight valve engine i would say not to use the pulley trick 16v ok it run's cooler, if your running 3,000 rpm's at 60 I would not mess with the spacer either, waste of money.

thanks fot that.  i wasnt sure of it so i thought id ask to see if it was worth it or not most likely not then huh? well i guess ill have to find another way to get some much needed HP! hehehe....

There are other ways, some cheap, some not..

A resistor in series with the manifold air temperature sensor will slightly richen the mixture. Don't go higher than 500 ohms because you don't want to run so rich that the catalyst will be damaged. Cost ~ $1.

If your factory ignition coil is getting weak after a few years, a hot coil from Accel or MSD will help. Match the primary winding resistance to that of the stock coil. It may be necessary to relocate the ignitor to the firewall. Cost ~ $40.

A K&N air filter will lower intake restriction. Also, duct the intake from the inside of the left front fender to a point behind the left headlight for a modest ram effect and to draw in less hot underhood air when stopped. Cost ~$45.

A header and/or a glasspack muffler will lower exhaust restriction. Biggest disadvantage is noise. Cost ~ $50-$250.

What is the reason for not running an 8-V engine with an underdrive pulley? Is it because the water pump runs slower?

Don, y'all
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The 8 valve 1.6 runs hotter than the 1.3 or the 1.6-16v engine, i guess if you had a larger radiator or run it in cooler climates slowing down the water pump would be ok but not sure of the horse power gain. you could prob. go to an electric radiator fan an gain some on highway horse power gains keeping you rig over say 20 mph. as for the glass pack muffler that is a big no no here! you will have to be towed off of the trail back to the pavement (oregon) and im sure it will be affecting other states soon if not allready. the ram air is good and so is the coil. i found that i lost mileage with the platinum plugs. on my big block chevy i lost 7 mpg. i have used prolong (oil add.) it seamed to help on hp. and mileage and using 30wt oil instead of 50 wt. i run the k+n filters on all of my rig's if you are running an air box you could open up another hole in it to let the k+n work a little better maybe on the bottom of it to get a streight shot to the element!(with out ram air) im guessing that you are looking to gain on road horse power i see in your avitar it looks like you have a spare tire mounted on your roof that will affect your on road power as well. just my .02 cents.

According to the Haynes manual, the 1.6 8V uses a 190 degree thermostat while the 1.6 16V uses a 180 degree. The 1.3 can use either one depending on the model. Just for info.

Don, y'all
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I added a piece of 2 inch abs pipe from the air intake on the inner fender and put an elbow on the other end and dropped it in front of the rad. This netted me nearly a 10% increase in mileage and some hp gain. I also added a 2 inch exhaust with a turbo muffler and noticed a big difference in hp

well ive been thinking about a new coil but im just pondering that idea.  i have custom intake on it right now but not pointed at the front of the truck, i curved it up by drivers side engine bay the highest point under the hood for "water" purposes along with my diff breather tube. no spare on roof though its just something in the backround. my exhuast is sawzalled off right before the muff. so it breathes well. i would rather boost hp than lower my gears, but when i cross the local creek im bogging down alot when i hit deep water i have to floor it in low 1st gear its all i can do to keep moving!

If you can give me some more info! do you have a k+n air filter? stock air intake? cataletic converter? have you had your exhaust pipe off and made sure the inside was not collapsing? how many miles? ect. does your tail pipe stop befor the gas tank aiming at it? or go out the side? checked your timming? use wd40 on plugs and cap? how deep is the water?

it is a riceboy filter (look alike kn) with this heat shield on it so if water splashes up it is not totaly exposed. the exhuast is just pointed staight back kind of dangling i guess. i got about 102000 miles on it just replaced plugs and wires, havent wd40 the distributer though. the water is about when standing still  around 34" (a buddy of mine is running 33's and when he stops in the middle it is flowing over the tires).  either this weekend or next im going to buy some pvc pipe and build snorkel.