I found out my problem and I think it is the wheel bearings on both sides
the book says that I need a special tool to take of the nut
Have any of you guys done this and where can I get this tool if it really is needed

I have 250,000 miles on the stock wheel bearings,
if it didn't act funny before, why would 50 miles
make any difference? check the front end out fully.

do you think that the extra travel allowed from the OME stuts could have caused the problem and what would  it affect. I am only using 1in coil spaces

I'm running 3" spacers, well now I have modified springs
that are long travel, and I built strut extensions 3" long
as well, I don't think 1" spacers would cause the problem.
check the top strut nut, I had one come off going down the
91 freeway, not fun, and I thought I had em tight, use lock-tite
and make sure the nut is on good, torque the lower strut bolts
to about 80 Ft Lb.

Did you take the wheel bearings out or the front shafts out?
The shafts slide out of the front after the big nut comes off
and the CV joint is dis-connected.

This is a pic I found that sort of shows the spacer
on the drivers side, the other side has a newer
prototype I was working on to fix the camber issue.

Sorry Thats the strut spacer, this pic is the spring
spacer along with the extended CV cup so I can
use Mike Hagen's widen IFS mod

I will double check the top nut because it sounds like the struts could have caused any problems
I haven't been able to get the nut off to look at the bearing because they are torqued so much

91 freeway where do you live I live in Long Beach CA

Ment could have caused any problems and thanks for all your help

Mileage isn't always a factor on wheel bearings, my rears died at about 135,000 miles.  Bad grease, insufficient grease, improperly torqued hub nuts (on the front anyway) can all make em die alot sooner.  

FYI rear bearings going out will usually make your axle seals leak so if you develop a leak plan on replacing the bearings too.  Not a fun job on the back either between grinding off the locking collars with an angle grinder (takes like 2 hours or so) and if you don't have a hydraulic press and a bearing separator plan on paying a machine shop to press the old races off and press the new ones on.  Did this last fall.  It sucked. A lot.

Thankfully my friend has a hydraulic press and you can get a separator at harbor freight for like 20 bucks.

I found out my problem and I think it is the wheel bearings on both sides
the book says that I need a special tool to take of the nut
Have any of you guys done this and where can I get this tool if it really is needed

We just did the fronts without any special tools.  It would have been handy to have a set of snap ring pliers.  Good Luck!
~Nate

Hey Natebert how did you get the hub nut off mine is a washer type of thing that has four holes that you have to insert a tool with dowels in it and it is also torqued to about 120ft-lbs

Hey Natebert how did you get the hub nut off mine is a washer type of thing that has four holes that you have to insert a tool with dowels in it and it is also torqued to about 120ft-lbs

Ours wasn't even finger tight.  When I put it back in I just used a hammer and a screwdriver to get it mostly tight.

well that world explain my problem
Im getting a friend to machine me a tool because the dearler wanted 200 dollars for the thing. So I might be rolling again in a week or so