Keep us posted if the XL-7 shafts wrok in a GV.  If so this could open the door for some option
Geogre

do the xl7 axles do this??  From what I understand the xl7 axle dont have the tapper at the spline??

No tapper on the XL-7
George

well then, another idea we had was to mod the side gears to fit the xl7 axles

I would try and see if the xl-7 side gears fit.  because if I remember right the spline count is higher on the xl-7. 27 vs 29 or something like that.  I will have to look and see if I can find the info again.
George

I would try and see if the xl-7 side gears fit.  because if I remember right the spline count is higher on the xl-7. 27 vs 29 or something like that.  I will have to look and see if I can find the info again.
George

I run a ARB locker in the rear, so unless arb bring out a airlocker for the xl7, i'll have to mod mine.

I someone ( no name) told me they are working on one
George

has anyone got a dia and spline count on a xl7 axle??  If its close to the 33mm that I think it is they'll not fit into the ARB locker if I get side gears.

Jeff

PLEASE READ FIRST:
> Know exactly what you are getting yourself into BEFORE
> doing this modification. The higher ratio gears will
> make you rocket off the line with the stock size
> tires, however your RPMs will also be a bit higher
> than "usual" at speeds of 65MPH or more.
>
> Just to give you an idea of how the RPMS will be:
> Although my speedometer says 85MPH, I'm actually doing
> (roughly) 77MPH. My RPM gauge is definitely correct,
> so at that speed, it stands around 4000 rpms. It does
> give a whole new meaning to 4th and 5th gears!
>
> WARNING: If you are going to do this, make sure you do
> BOTH the front and the rear gears at the same time. If
> you do the rear first, and you're coming home drunk
> one day and accidentally engage the 4X4. Well, guess
> what? You'll be leaving your drivetrain behind you on
> the floor, and you'll break every damn component from
> the front all the way to the back. You have to have
> the same gear ratios installed in the front AND
> back!!!!!!
>
> Although these upgraded gears are necessary if you
> have a lift with larger size tires, if you install
> them on your stock vehicle, you'll have successfully
> turned it into a Street Screamer.
>
> If you've read this far, good. Here's the type of
> vehicle you absolutely need to get the different parts
> from:
>
> 1996, 1997, or 1998 1.6L JAPAN-MADE Suzuki SideKick
> (read: not CAMI built), with manual transmission.
> Canadian Trackers and any SideKick with the 1.8 & 2.0
> Liter motors will NOT work.
>
> You can tell it's Jap made because the VIN # ALWAYS
> starts with JS.
>
> For the rear, take the entire 3rd member. It's the
> same 12-bolt carrier that is in the GV, except it has
> a ABS tone ring (ours is on the outer bearing
> retainer), and the housing has some unneeded mounting
> bosses. If the Kick doesn't have ABS, don't worry, as
> the GV is 4-ch ABS and uses tone rings on the axles,
> not the carrier.
>
> For the front, grab the entire 3rd member (INCLUDING
> bracket, nuts and bolts), the driver's side inner axle
> shaft, the passenger side CV shaft, and the manual
> hubs. Considering everything will be on the same donor
> truck, getting in one shot would be the most
> practical, and will get you your best price.
>
> And now, without further ado....
>
> INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - REAR
>
> Please keep in mind. All these instructions are
> assuming that you are somewhat mechanically inclined
> and are familiar with different terms. Also, the use
> of power tools and a lift makes things a whole lot
> easier!
>
> We'll start off with the Rear b/c not only will it
> "pop your cherry", but it will make the most
> difference b/c our vehicles are RWD.
>
> Things you need BEFORE HAND:
> The rear pig (duh!)
> At least 2 quarts of 80W90 differential oil
> Big ass sledgehammer
> Razor Blade
> RTV Sealer
>
> Again, let me emphasize, having a lift and using air
> power tools will definitely make the job much much
> easier:
>
> 1. Drain the differential oil from the pumpkin.
> 2. Pull the wheels.
> 3. Using the 12MM wrench/socket, pull the 4 bolts on
> the back of the brake mounting disc thing...this holds
> the bearing cup to the axle.
> 4. Put one wheel back on, and thread like 3 lug nuts.
> 5. Take the big ass sledgehammer and stand under the
> car. Hit the living shit out of the tire from the
> inside out, until, like magic, the axle comes loose.
> Note, this step is a pain in the ass, and you have to
> hit the tire HARD from the inside (so imagine standing
> underneath in the middle of the car slamming the
> hammer against the inside part of the tire). Wouldn't
> hurt to disconnect or loosen the brake lines so that
> you have more room to slide out the axle. Once it
> gives, slide it out 3-4" the most. Do this for both
> sides.
> 6. With the axles out, unbolt the driveshaft from the
> back.
> 7. Unbolt the 8-10 bolts on the housing to loosen and
> remove the pumpkin.
> 8. Using the blade, clean off the sealer from the
> surface where the pumpkin was removed from.
> 9. Installation is the reverse of removal! Don't
> forget to add Differential oil back in and check that
> the ABS Sensors didn't become loose!
>
> Just remember to bleed the brakes if you loosened them
> (might want to add some brake fluid). ALSO, REMEMBER
> NOT TO ENGAGE YOU 4X4 IF YOU HAVEN'T INSTALLED YOUR
> FRONT GEARS YET!!!!! You'll destroy your car if you
> do!
>
>

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS - FRONT
> The front will take more time, but is straight
> forward.
>
> Things you need BEFORE HAND:
> The front differential (duh!) AND BRACKET, INCLUDING
> ALL NUTS and BOLTS
> At least 2 quarts of 80W90 differential oil
> Razor Blade
> RTV Sealer
> CV Boot Clamps
> Passenger side inner axle seal - SGP Part #:
> 09286-64001-000 (this is for preventative maintenance.
> They are prone to wear out and leak.)
> The inner axle shaft
> The CV shaft
> and the manual hubs
> (the last 3 parts are to eliminate the shit-on-the-fly
> design. This reduces the rolling friction, thereby
> making the wheels spin more freely b/c of no
> resistance, hence more speed!!)
>
> First, the Driver side:
> 1. Drain the front axle assembly. (Don't forget to
> refill at the end!)
> 2. Disconnect the air line and diff breather.
> 3. Unbolt the driver's side CV at the flange.
> 4. Unbolt the diff mounts.
> 5. Remove the 4 bolts from the driveshaft and use a
> bungie to hold the driveshaft up and out of the way
> (do not pull it out of the t-case)
> 6. Now, I save some time by wiggling the assembly down
> and pulling the driver's side CV stub out (it should
> just pull out). This saves the step of removeing the
> hubs and pulling the CV shafts out, but it's a little
> more tricky, requiring an extra set of hands.
> 7. Once it's out and on the bench, use a dead blow (or
> rubber mallet) and knock out the inner shaft by
> hitting the flange.
> 8. Unbolt the diff and remove.
> 9. Clean the surface of the new diff and where it will
> be installed (there will be gunk there from the
> previous diff.)
> 10. Install the new Kick 5.13 pig and bolt down (Make
> sure to use fresh RTV sealer.)
> 11. Install the Kick inner shaft, hitting with a dead
> blow until fully seated. (If you compare the shafts,
> you will notice the size difference, with the GV being
> longer.)
>
> Now, the Passenger side:
> Compare the two CV stubs. Notice that the GV is
> shorter than the Kick. The difference in the two side
> lengths is because the airdiff moves the centerline
> over about 1" towards the passenger side. The
> passenger side is a floating stub, and the shorter it
> is, the weaker it is. YOU ARE MAKING THE FRONT END
> STRONGER!
>
> What you want to do here is swap the Kick stub onto
> the longer GV mid-shaft and outer CV.
> 1. Carefully cut the band around the CV boot.
> 2. Remove the GV's stub/ CV cup and replace it with
> the stub/cup off the Kick, making a "hybrid" CV shaft.
> Use the new clamps on the boot.
> 3. This would be a good time to replace the passenger
> side inner axle seal. The Driver's side doesn't have
> the same problem, as it has a bearing supported inner
> shaft.
>
> With that done, re-install everything back into your
> GV. The front 3rd member has a center mount. This
> mounts to the GV crossmember. I find it easiest to
> remove the two bolts from underneath the crossmember,
> leaning the center mount on the diff, and using the
> bracket from the sidekick differential. IMPORTANT: The
> GV bracket will NOT work. Make sure you have the nuts
> and bolts from the sidekick bracket. If not, Home
> Depot has them. I think the size is 5/8" X 2.5"
> (you'll need 2).
>
> 4. Now the hubs. This is REALLY tricky. Ready? a)
> Remove bolts from existing lock-out caps on the hub.
> b) Making sure the hub is in the "open" position,
> install hubs with bolts and tighten to spec.
>
> 5. Finally, stick a golf tee into the rubber
> differential breather hose so it can build pressure
> and make the 4WD light come on. Also, plug the metal
> air line. You can use a small piece of rubber hose
> with another golf tee at the end.
>
> Done!! If you want 4wd, just lock the hubs and put it
> in 4wd. With hubs locked, you can shift on the fly,
> just like the GV does now. And to prevent dirty
> fingers, pick up a plastic hub turner.

I have just carried out the above mentioned mod to my GV. So I now have Lower ratio diffs in my GV axles. It was quite an easy swop and no special machining was needed as I had been told. Just replaced all internals in the front and complete housing in the rear. Still retaining the all important steel front diff housing. And all the bits came from a chassis in my local scrap-yard!!!!!!
This also allows the fitment of all types of locking diffs that are available for the vitara.
Not sure if XL-7 is the same but worth a look

Richie.

all the diagrams I have seen of the xl7 axle have it tappered like the GV.  The GV spline count is 26.  Has anyone seen a XL7 axle?  Have a pic of it with some measaments.  No one has one in Australia and Suzuki can tell me nothing.  Dont want to order this if it ends up being the same as what I have.

I have a pair of the rear axles along with the center section from a XL7 auto. I'm on vaca for a week, then travel for work for another week. Won't be back till 3/25 late.

Do a search on my name and axles. Before there was a separate BBS for XL7s, I think I had some of this info before. I've never really figured out how to use the search engine, I keep getting nothing back.

PS. My vaca is at Seaworld and parents house and not Moab.

Great walk through, RichieGrandVit, of a R&R (remove and replace) of the front and rear assemblies.

~Nate

Actually I believe he was posting this article from the archive.

[link]www.zukiworld.com/month_030104/feature_tsb_shiftontheflyremoval.htm[/link]