Hey guys got a 02 Grand Vitra V6 and i will be installing my Manual Hub locks off a 92 sidekick ill post pics and info.

So did you get the hubs installed this weekend?

I just installed the Warn hubs a few hours ago... Work fine!

can u post a some photos and also give us some tech info about installing manual hubs please??

i,m planning to put manual hubs to my GV too.  
and some tech info about that will be great to me!!

I wrote this sort of how-to, I can translate if you don't understand something, just ask!

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Pues os comento un poco cómo los he instalado. Es muy fácil, quitar unas piezas y poner otras. Las instrucciones dicen que ya vienen bien engrasadas, asi que no le metais más grasa que si no no funcionaran correctamente. Hay que darles un repaso cuando toque repasar las juntas de los rodamientos.

Primero de todo levantamos el coche, es necesario quitar la rueda:




Te miras los liberadores (pero que bonitos que son!:]) NO babear dentro, que luego se oxidan las partes:




Se quita la tapita de plastico. Hay una muesca, que en mi caso estaba debajo de donde pone "20mm" en el soporte del disco de freno. La llave del gato va muy bien:




Esto es lo que se ve. Hay 6 tornillos (que en la foto ya no están) que hay que guardar bien, los volveras a utilizar. Como antes, la pieza esta se quita con la llave del gato en la muesca:




Nos quedamos con el cubo fijo en la mano. Para el baul de los recuerdos. Aqui empieza a ser un poquito peligroso. No debe entrar absolutamente nada ahi dentro. Iría bien no hacerlo como yo y lavar el coche antes...




Presentamos el liberador:




Y lo metemos:




Montamos los tornillos originales del cubo así, con las arandelas que trae el liberador:




Atornillamos al par que nos digan las instrucciones. No tengo llave dinamométrica, asi que a ojo y ya lo arreglaré luego:




Ahora viene la tapa y "llave". Hay que meter la junta que trae, y asegurarse que la lleve está en posición 4x2, de lo contrario nos costará meter la tapa:




Hay que fijarse también que este palito:




Entre en este agujero:




Montamos la tapita y apretamos como dicen las instrcucciones:




Montamos la rueda y comprobamos que bien que quedan:




Y estas son las partes viejas. Como veis, son cubos fijos:




Pues ala, ya os estais pidiendo unos y a montarlos!:]

thanks sergi!
its nice and easy as i imagine.

i just wonder if we have to do something with the shafts.  
i want to know if the shafts must be locked in the differential from now on, and only lock/unlock the hubs or we dont need to do anything at all and we just remove these things from each side and put the new hubs??

i think that the shafts must be locked on the diff in some way...... so u dont need to use the "air presure lock" that GV now has.

the way u did it, its nice but u still have to use "air presure lock" even with the manual hubs.

sorry for my english but i hope u ll understand what i mean..!!!!

correct me for mistakes or misunderstanding  

some more tech info about my wonder will be nice for me  

Yeah, the CVs will still be disconnected at the differential. you still have the original, perfectly workink shift on the fly system. The good thing is you just leave the hubs in 4x2 during weekdays, and avoid unnecesary wear (a friend had bearing failure recently) and just put 4x4 when on trail. Then, you get the fuses, which should break before a CV. Thats the main reason I installed them, besides, I happened to be in the states, so with such a good euro/dollar relation they came cheap . Had to sneak them through customs though .

If you want to get rid of the differential vacuum system, there is an article on zukiworld explaining how to do it. It isn't easy though...

yes, ok now.

i made some thoughts wrong way!
i know what u mean and its ok!!
fuses are great too.
i,m planning to install superwinch hubs as soon as possible.

have a good time there!!

Make sure and check those hub bolts on the Warn lockouts all the time. On the two sets I had, they would always loosen up after a run, even with locktite. In fact I actually tossed/lost one going down the highway!   Talk about a rock chip!

-Eric

hmmmm
Thanks about the tip ebewley. I'll go check right now, wouldn't want to lose one! :-/

Great job with the pictures!  I always intend to do that with stuff I work on but then end up with one or two early shots and one finished shot.

If it's not asking to much could you translate that into English?  I'm planning on doing this myself in a while on the '03.

Love the TD 2 seater by the way.  Kinda different seeing one of those compared to our 4 door with the V6.  Any idea what king of fuel mileage you get in miles per gallon?

Hi,
I'll do the translation tomorrow, it's bedtime here. It's pretty straighforward, and you can follow the instructions. I did this mini "how-to" because not everyone around here speaks english (I mean in my country) so following instructions can be difficult.
I get about 30mpg, I don't think it's much different from yours is it? Apart from other benefits of diesel for off-road, it's much cheaper than regular gas here. Regular gas is around 0.94 € per litre, whilst diesel is 0.87 € per litre. That turns out to be 3.553 € per gallon and 3.288 € per gallon, so it is WAY more expensive than what you guys get . So diesel is expensive, but less than regular.
Oh, by the way, it's a 2 door, but 4 seater . I only use 2, so the rear seats are always lowered, so ok, it's a 2 seater

My bad, I ment 2 door.  Good catch there.

Beleive it or not our best mpg so far has been 21mpg on the freeway at a constant 70mph for nearly 3 hours.  Not bad but I'd like to see better.  Half the reason I want manual hubs is that I want the best gas mileage we can get with it.  The other half is that I trust manual hubs more than a constantly spinning front diff.

Those gas prices aren't horribly worse than ours.  We're at $2.35 a gallon for 87 octane and I think it's in the $2.20's for diesel.  In the last year we've seen a raise of almost 80 cents a gallon.  Still...I bet in the long run that 9mpg or so you have on us would give you the advantage.

I'll keep an eye out for the English translation.  Thanks!

This is how I installed my Warn Manual Locking hubs, from RRO. I simply followed the instructions supplied with the hubs, but decided to do a mini guide because I participate in another forum where many members don't speak English, so following the instructions suplied by Warn can be complicated. It is also to show that it is easy and straightforward, as long as you have the proper tools.
Some hubs need loads of grease to work. It says in the instructions that these come properly greased from factory, and that they won't work properly if more grease is added. So don't do it .

To install, you need to lift the car to extract the wheel:




These are the hub locks, with the body on the left and the cap on the right.



You need to remove the plastic cover. There is a small dent (in my case it was just under where it says "20mm" on the disk support. To remove, the tool used to remove the wheel nuts works great.
By the way, I'm not sure if you have this same black cover, maybe it is somewhat different, but it shouldn't be very hard.




This is what is under the black cover. You need to remove the six bolts (in the photo they have already been removed). You need to keep these, you shall use them later. Like before, this metal part needs to be removed by inserting the wheel tool in the dent.




Now you have the factory locked hub in your hands. You can get rid of it if you want, I'll be keeping mne just in case. Take care, NOTHING can go inside and get things dirty. It would have been a good idea to clean the car before starting (not like me).




Take the hub body:




Put it in:




Now is when you reuse the original bolts, with the rings that Warn supplies in this order:




Now you need to simply bolt them in, at the torque specified on the page. I didn't have a torque wrench, so I just pushed hard and will solve that later.




Now is when you put the cap. There is a gasket that comes with the hubs, you need to use. If you don't water, dust etc will go in and thats not good is it? Be sure that the "key" is in 4x2 postion, if it is in 4x4 it will be very difficult to put the cap in (you would be trying to compress the spring):




You need to make sure this...:




...goes in there:



Now you simply use the supplied bolts and use the torque wrench to the specified torque:




Now wheel goes back on:




These are the old parts:



Now go start on the other wheel

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There, all translated!

Nice translation, thanks.  It is much better than Babelfish.  One question, it looks to me like those hubs stick out a bit furth than the wheel now, am I right?  I really don't want my hubs being the widest part of my Tracker, I would much rather have my tires hit the rocks instead.  I guess that is what wheel spacers or custom backspacing would  help.