I checked against the Holander interchange and the Suzuki manual....it was the only available ratio in the 4 dr in 1991.

Zag

Hey Guys
     I really, really appreciate the comments and critiques, please keep them coming.
But can we keep them on the Project RallyKick (Comments) thread. I'm hoping Eric can make this one a sticky for future reference.

Thanks

Zag

hey, i was just wonderin if u guys had ever heard of the Vitara "wide boys"?? it may just be an english thing, but over here, we have vitaras (u call them sidekicks i think) and u can get them with super wide arches, 3 inch each side up to 5 inch each side, and these look almost like rally cars.  anyways, just a litlle bit of info i thought i would share with u guys, probably already been told...... but anyway!!

Andy

STAGE ONE "A"

Today is compression Test day!

***Please note***

You are the final authority on any aspect of this project you chose to copy

 Ã‚  I am giving voluntary advice.
 Ã‚  Refer to your manual or local mechanic for
 Ã‚  professional advice.

 Ã‚  I assume no liability for you following along.


Why do a compression test?
- Tells you a general story on the condition of your engine, if the compression is good and it
 Ã‚  has no bad habits you've got a good base to start with.

What is the test going to tell you?
- The general condition of the cylinder and valve sealing

This is one of those places where getting book  values is pretty rare...

Example...

The Haynes manual calls for 170psi minimum |removethispart|@ 400rpm

 Ã‚    My experience is that you have a hard time getting 400rpm off the starter and if you do how can you be sure if you don't have a tachometer? Plus every compression tester gives slightly different readings.

So what are you looking for?

On a cold engine I find, generally, a good engine will read between 100-130 psi (stock)

On a warm engine I find, generally, a good engine will read between 130-160 psi (stock)

 Ã‚    A little higher or a little lower is not a big deal, what you are looking for is that they are EVEN......a difference of 10 psi is OK in my opinion, but dead even is what I like to see.

 Ã‚    You combine this information with the general running condition of the engine...
- Does it use any oil?
- Does it loose any coolant?
- Does it have any major leaks of coolant or oil?
- Does it make any rude or unusual clicking, knocking or craping sounds?

With Project RallyKick
- It doen't use any oil.
- It doesn't loose any coolant.
- It doesn't have any leaks of note.
- It has no noises that should not be there.

So as long as the compression is in the "Zone" and even I've got a good base!

Doing the test.......

Tools
- Spark Plug socket
- Short extension
- Rachet
- Decent compression tester, screw in style not the cheap type you hold in place



Lets do it...

- run engine to normal temp (you can do it cold but warm is preffered)
- open hood

- Carefully (don't burn yerself) remove plug wires and mark or layout so you don't mix them up



- Remove spark plugs (don't burn yerself, again)



 Ã‚ Now before you go any farther look at them, they should be a light brown and all the same.
 Ã‚ If not you need to figure out why?

 Ã‚ These are from RallyKick



- Insert compression tester, hand tight (snug)

- Spin over, I do a ten turn count

- Read the guage, write down the number
- Repeat for the next three cylinders

These are from RallyKick, I cheated and did it stone cold so the numbers are OK, notice they are close to identical indicating good cylinder sealing/valve sealing (120-120-115-120 Stone Cold)






I had already done a hot test before the engine was removed from the donor vehicle and the hot compression was 150 psi and all even when hot. (So cold was ok for the pics cause I already has a hot)

Now reinstall the spark plugs, hook up the wires and test run to be sure you didn't mess up.

You're done.......and I've confirmed that the RallyKick base engine is in good shape.

Now if you find a cylinder way out of whack it indicates a mechanical problem you need to diagnose...bad rings, sticking valves, burnt valves....

Bad rings or valves can usually be diagnosed by putting a squirt of oil in the offending cylinder.
- If the compression jumps up the rings are in trouble
- If the compression doesn't change it's usually a valve problem

Etheir way no point in doing any more work till you fix the problem.

But for this project....I've got a good one.

Next the major tune up!

Zag

zag ...

check if your camera has a "close-up" mode ... for pics like the plugs, in "close-up" mode you'll end up with a much better focus (otherwise it's so blurry it isn't much good).

just RTFM on your camera  you'll be surprised how much better you'll become as a photographer.

Thanks SnoFalls

     As you may have guessed I'm still learning on the pics.

Zag

Lets get the tools and stuff ready for the oil change and tune up

Oil change tools.......(left side of photo)

Top to bottom
- Funnel
- 17mm wrench
- Filter wrench
- Good Drain pan (not shown)

Tune up tools.........(right side of photo)
Left to right/Top to bottom
- Large phillips screw driver (for aircleaner)
- 7/32 socket and handle (for distributor cap)
- Ratchet
- Extension
- Spark plug socket
- Spark plug gapping tool (not shown I have to get a new one)
- Vacuum guage
- Timing light





Parts to get
- Oil Filter (get a good name brand)
- 5 quarts, of your favorite oil ( I prefer Castrol GTX)

- Distributor cap
- Distributor rotor
- Spark plug wires (get good ones, I like NGK)
- Spark plugs ( I like NGK again)
- Air filter (get a good name brand, or better yet step up to a K&N, IMO it's worth it)

Gather your stuff and get ready.

Zag

Here we go on the Tune up and oil change.....

With the vehicle COLD
- open the hood

- Compare and make sure your parts are correct before you start working
  (some zuks have a clip on distributor cap, some screw on...like mine)

- I also gap the plugs before starting, gapping means insuring the gap between the ground
  (hooked wire end) and electrode (center of the plug)is to specification. Also put a little anti sieze
  on the threads.





- If you haven't done this before I recommend replacing 1 wire at a time (see photo)





- Now line up your distributor cap and swap the wires 1 at a time
(Notice the wires are now a nice clean gray! I couldn't get any NGK's so Im using Super Mag 8mm)




- Now take off the old cap, switch out the rotor, it should just press on. Put it back together.
  (sorry couldn't get a good pic of the rotor in the Zuk, used one on an engine in the shop)




- Now switch the spark plugs, one at a time




Hey the tough part is done......next setting the timing.

Zag

Timing...........

***Note*** I was just reminded by Rhinoman....depending on your exact vehicle and where it
      was built you may need to insert a jumper lead between pins C and D on the diagnostic
      coupler. ****If in doubt consult the Factory Service or equivalent manual****

- Using the 12mm wrench loosen the bolt retaining the distributor till it allows the distributor
  to just move.
- Using a marker, chalk or paint mark the mark on the crank pulley and the marks on the front
  cover so you can see them easily and so can the timing light.




- Hook up the timing light according to the instructions that came with it. Be sure all wires are
  clear of any rotating parts!





- Now run the engine and let it get to operating temp. Now is the time to be careful, don't
  burn yerself and don't let fingers, hands or clothes get caught in rotating parts.

- You may also want to wear rubber gloves during this step to minimise the chance of getting a
  shock. Not something I do, but I know a lot of guys that do!

- Aim the timing light at the crank pulley and read the marks...if it doesn't match the sticker
  under your hood, carefully and slowly twist the distributor till it does. (on an 8v clockwise should
  retard and anti-clockwise should advance the distributor)

- Now shut off the engine, tighten the distributor bolt, good and snug.
- Remove the timing light

You're done.

Next reading the vacuum guage.

Zag

Vacuum guage......

I should have covered this with the compression test, but I forgot. Thanks to Rhinoman for reminding me.

The vacuum guage is another tool for getting a general indication of the condition of your engine. If you are having problems it can also be a great tool for diagnosing problems.

Generally you want to see the guage at around 15-20 psi of vacuum at idle when warm, depending on the engine.

If it's appreciably lower than that you've got a problem.

Hook the vacuum guage to a un-controlled vacuuum port (one direct to the manifold) theres a good one by the valve cover near the front of the engine, another near the bottom of the TBI mounting base. Use a pencil or something similar to plug the hose you remove.

The engine is still nice and warm from doing the timing so start it up and read the guage.

RallyKick came in at a nice 18"




If the vacuum is low and the engine not running smoothly time to look for why.
- Running rich
- Timing incorrectly set
- Valve timing incorrectly set
- Vacuum leak
- Smokin knockn and running rough, low compression....time for an overhaul
  (see "do it yerself engine rebuild")

Just jokin

RallyKick once again came through with a clean bill of health.

Now crawl underneath (after the vehicle is completely cold), by the fuel tank and change the fuel filter...I don't think I need to explain that one...do I?

Same with an oil change, get er done, I don;t think we need an in depth explanation. If we do let me know on the "Comments thread"

You tune up is done...your Track/Kick should be set to factory spec and everything running well

Good compression/good vacuum, fully tuned, timing set, oil changed...just like new.

You should have as close as you are going to get to the original 80hp.

(I'd also bet it runs a lot better now and is probly getting a lot better gas mileage)

END STAGE ONE "A"

Zag

Next.......getting some more power!

INPUT NEEDED

I would realy like your input on this thread.
     - Has it been useful?
     - Is it too basic?
     - Have I missed anything or need to explain something better?
     - Any other thoughts?

Please put your comments and thoughts on the RallyKick "Comments" thread.

Thanks

Zag

STAGE ONE "B"
***Note***
For this section I am going to assume a higher level of mechanical ability, and that you are familiar with things like changing a timing belt, removing manifolds, working with exhaust.

                                   "In short...a back yard do it yerself kinda guy"

Ok gang............

First of the performance parts just in........

20% (approx) speed reduction crank pulley.....in my company yellow (paint still wet)

Made for me by a friend in the aviation business, it's the prototype.
4130 Steel...Stock diameter 5" (approx), this one 4" approx



Should reduce the speed of the accessories approx 20% picking up a little horsepower.

***I don't know if this would be a good mod for slow speed running.***

- Could cause heating problems at sustained low speed
- Could cause charging problems at sustained low speed

I will report back on how it works

Zag

Second part comes together........

Electric fan from 94 Talon

Shown here trial fitted to a Kick rad from stock...will be tight but should fit ok.

Will start off wiring to work when running...then switch to a thermo switch later



I'll be spending much of the Weekend building the new aircleaner and TBI spacer.

Zag

Some more stuff about using  a vacuum gauge. I scanned this from a book published in 1960, most of it is still relevant but not the bit about the hot plate 

http://www.rhinoman.org/vacuum.jpg

(633K)

CJ added this vacuum guage info on the "Comments Thread"

     users.bigpond.net.au/ergoff/vac1.htm


Many thanks to both Rhinoman and CJ for this great info!!!

Zag