I finally got around to installing my new OME front struts in the Goblin. Prior to this, it was running worn out stock struts with the upper mount flipped and 1-1/2" coil spacers. The camber with this setup was right at the edge of spec with the rims I'm running. When I removed the struts, I noticed that the upper bolts into the spindle were 3 sizes smaller diameter than the lower bolts and that the lower bolts fit both holes. There was also a camber shim on the driver's side between the top of the spindle and the strut's body. Since there was such a camber  change with the coil spacers(it moved from spec this way/ \ to spec vertical) that I figured the longer struts would make it worse. I removed the camber wedge and didn't bother to put it back.

I flipped the upper mount back to normal and installed my new, longer struts. I lined the upper spindle holes up centered and tightened them down. Then went for a test drive. I noticed the camber was now very noticably / \.  When I got home, I loosened the upper spindle bolts and drove the camber wedge back into place on the driver's side and installed one on the passenger side, then tightened the bolts back up and test drove again. This time it looked right on the money(I will be getting it aligned again shortly).

I remember seeing everyone having to get "camber bolts" to fix their camber issues and I also have seen people modifying their strut mounts and their strut mount spacers as well as some people ovalizing the upper spindle bolt hole to get camber back to spec, but I don't remember seeing anybody use a smaller diameter upper bolt(thick washers on each end) with camber wedges before. seems like a simple, yet effective fix. Both of my Trackers have the smaller upper bolt and camber wedges. Does everyone's or are mine just flukes?

I would not use camber wedges as off orad vibrations could bounce them loose. Camber bolts are OK but not the best!

the camber bolts i used were a one peice steel units. they worked out perfectly to realign the camber back to stock specs. i've punished them quit a bit, and they're holding up just fine so far.

i had the same problem when i installed my rro lift i brought it to a shop and the aligned it for 100 bucks

I'm surprised it was that far out, the lower mountings on OME struts are different to correct the camber (with a 1.5" lift). Do you have lifted springs as well as spacers?

the camber bolts i used were a one peice steel units. they worked out perfectly to realign the camber back to stock specs. i've punished them quit a bit, and they're holding up just fine so far.

Same here. Steering is WACKED so that's effecting the toe in/out.

I'm surprised it was that far out, the lower mountings on OME struts are different to correct the camber (with a 1.5" lift). Do you have lifted springs as well as spacers?

No, just the coil spacers up front. It might have been better with taller spacers, but adjusting the camber worked fine...

Hi Digger. And just to think that is only regarding camber changes. What about castor and toe? You looked at those too? Both these help you go in a straight line!!!
I played with my old Opel Senator years ago ( also a macpherson front end like the kick's ). What I did find was that camber didn't really make a hugh difference but castor and toe certainly do. The biggest difference with camber seemed to be tyre wear more than anything, but it had a quality suspension spec and that may have helped.
Let face it we do not drive our kick's like race cars - orrr do we?

Well, once I installed the OME struts, the camber was causing the swampers to ride on the inside shoulder of the tread which made for a quite loud ride. Now with the camber more normal, the swampers ride on the center tread on the road, which helps them ride quieter and smoother. As soon as I get the chance to get back to the alignment shop, I plan on having the toe-in checked. I don't think castor can be adjusted on these vehicles, can it?

Just some information ,  I have taken off my wish bones the other day to find that the bolt holes had all got bigger over the course of 2 years  which wasnt helping my camber , driver side was a lot worse than the pass.

Just some information ,  I have taken off my wish bones the other day to find that the bolt holes had all got bigger over the course of 2 years  which wasnt helping my camber , driver side was a lot worse than the pass.

Did you have the original shouldered bolts fitted? It sounds like a couple of a thick reinforcing washer welded on would be a good idea.

That's not good that it enlarged the holes that much! How often did you check to make sure they stayed tight?

Hi Digger,
Yeah you can adjust the castor. It is the same as camber but in a front to rear plane as opposed to camber which is in a side to side plane ( relative to the chassis ). Calmini users have noticed that when they fit the 3" lift arms that the wheel moves back into the centre of the wheel well - this will automatically realign the castor. I believe they realign the camber by extending the A arm bolt holes further out in relation to the chassis ( or you can alter the top strut mount to achieve the same as you have already done ). Toe - why not just do it in the drive way ,it is the same as doing the toe on a sammy and costs you nothing. The advantages with the mcpherson strut set up is that it is simple, but this simplicity also makes it difficult to adjust if not fitted with any adjusters ( eg: our kick's ).
I hope this is making sense

I would not use camber wedges as off orad vibrations could bounce them loose. Camber bolts are OK but not the best!

Ok, you win! I ejected the driver's side camber wedge while out in the woods today... When I went to fix it, I found the bolts had worked loose, so I think that was the reason it ejected. The passenger side held tight. Some locktite and torque-ing the bolts down and they should hold...