Hey all, just signed up, the board is awesome, so many users, so much info. My name is Steve (aka BV1) and I am from Winnipeg,MB,Canada.

I drive a 1997 Suzuki X90 4x4. Just got it:

http://www.members.shaw.ca/diatech/x90-2.jpg

Theres only one problem:

http://www.members.shaw.ca/diatech/x90-3.jpg

As you might have guessed by the subject its an auto.

I am pretty good with my cars, but I mainly work on engines, not alot of transmission and suspension work. My previous car was a 350 HP AWD Talon TSI, and I got this for winter and the crazy gas prices.

I am serious about going ahead with the swap, and I searched and read some of the others peoples posts on here but didnt get the answers I was looking for, for sure.

I need to know for sure:

1) if rear diff gear ratios are the same between manuals and auto's 95-98.

2) if the firewall has provisions for the 5spd cables etc already drilled... in the autos. (A pic of a 5spd 95-98 Sidekick/x90 would be great for this!)

3) if we have a hydraulic clutch in the 95-98 Manuals.

4) if the T-case is the same?

5) if the ECM is the same or at least will work for now if I swap it.

6) if the 4x4 system bolts right up, no probems, compared to a 2wd?

7) if ANYONE has ever done it successfully.

I want to do a good job, and I AM going to try my best, I won't get deterred from it. I cant wait for a 5spd, would be so much more fun.

If you guys could help me out, if anyone knows or has done this before it would be great.

Thanks,

-Steve

Isn't that a 4 speed auto
I wouldn't swap it, if you plan
on wheeling it you will learn to love
the auto trans.

I know you will find diehard 5 speed guys and
I know you will find diehard auto guys, I have
only wheeled a Kick with an auto, there seems
to be an advantage to the auto, I have yet to
break a front diff  Really, even witht he Turbo
putting out almost twice the stock HP on 33"
Swampers. You might also rethink the auto
with the shortage of 5.83 gears that are on
backorder with no available delivery date.

An auto trans can get some 5.13 Man trans
gears and turn 31" tires with stock like ratios

BTW autos came with 4.62 gears and man's came
with 5.13s, unless you got a California model with
4.30 gears

Just some info to think about, and as far as holes
for the cables and stuff, I think it's all there, camputer
is different and I think the 2WD has a dummy T-case
so the 4WD stuff should bolt up, altho the frame might
be missing some mount points for the front axle housing.

Not sure why you were asking that, as you have a 4x4 but
you also asked too

Good Luck
Wild

I'll reiterate ... learn to luv the auto ...

For drags (mud or street), a manual has it's place, but for 4wd trails, an auto is awesome.

The advantage an auto has is you can push it hard for periods (aka tough climbs), and it takes it without bother. Auto's are built to take that period of slippage/stress. A manual in the same situation requires "burning the clutch".

I spent 45 minutes trying a climb, and no one could figure why they didn't smell clutch (till they found I had an auto). I checked the fluid afterwards, not a smell of fluid burn. The built in "slush" has it's place, and I like it!

Thanks guys glad an Auto has such appreciation

It is the 4x4, 4spd auto but I want a bit more speed, for the street. I have headers, pulleys and the intake amd exhaust on the way.

So my 4spd auto will be for sale when I am done the swap, its only got 38,000 miles on it....

If any of you guys have a 5 spd, can you take a pic of the engine bay, firewall in particular. Looking where they run the lines etc.

On an aside, Wild, what kind of turbo you running? What about Fuel management, and compression ratio? Being a diehard turbo guy, this interests me

Thanks again guys,

-Steve

http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/zookmods

This should give you a good start on the Turbo Buildup
PM me or post here with any more Qs

 
Wild

LOL, thats the sticker I put in my sun visors in my Talon Nice work. Hard to believe you were really running lean under 4 psi boost. Crazy. I would have just upped the fuel pressure reg, and moderated the injector pulse width with an S-AFC II.

Heres my car:

http://www.members.shaw.ca/diatech/Talon2.JPG

http://www.members.shaw.ca/diatech/interiornew.JPG

-Steve

I did, but a 50 PPH injector at 80 PSI
can only flow so much, over that PSI
the injector refused to open.

I maxxed out the stock injector and
4x19 PPH injectors, couldn't get a rich
reading with 100% duty cycle on the
4x19 Pounders (high ohm Ford Escort)

I swapped in 4x35 PPH turbo T-bird injectors
and now I can run with just the 4 on the MegaSquirt
EFI system, I loaded the dual table program so
I could run one channel fuel and one channel Water/Alcohol
injection. I wanted to use the stock TBI for the H2O injection
but now I'm going to a 16V head and the TBI doesn't fit
on the 16V intake system.

Very nice

I am going to take a look at turboing the X after I get the swap done. I will be using a T25 turbo with some 390 cc injectors I have kicking around, and a AFPR until I see how much the stock pump can flow. Only looking to run about 7 psi or so. My talon ran 21

For now though, I am going to get a parts car for the Manual swap.

How hard is it to change the diff gears? I have yet to do this, ever...

Do you think it will even run with the Auto ECU in the manual?

-Steve

Zuk's have "third members".  You can pull out the whole center and swap in new gears from a five speed.

Welcome!

Cwkick

I think the Auto ECU would work with the Auto Trans,
it has inputs or outputs for the shifting and TC lockup,
but the ECU might also pop a Check Engine Light from
not getting a feedback from the trans

Wild

I think the Auto ECU would work with the Auto Trans,
it has inputs or outputs for the shifting and TC lockup,
but the ECU might also pop a Check Engine Light from
not getting a feedback from the trans

Wild

My thoughts exactly, well hope we are right.

So far I have:

Transmission it self
Clutch pedals
Linkages
Rear diff gears

And I was told potentially the ECU and Starter motor from another guy also.

The starter is the same

I think you guys got all the bits covered.

The ECM should work...I've tried it for testing purposes...but the check engine light does come on and won't go out. From what I have been able to find out it's
- No input from automatic
- Different idle speed and O2 readings

Zag

How would the idle speed and 02 be different if you just change the transmission? Just curious, same o2 sensor wouldnt it be?

I would think, if the engine wants to idle at a certain speed with an auto (say 700 rpm) it will idle at that speed with a manual? If the 02 sensor read .94 volts for a rich mixture on an auto would it not be the same for the manual?

Just trying to understand. Although the CEL for the no input from the Auto is pretty straight forward. Is the "Auto computer" built in to the ECU or is there a seperate control unit?

Thanks,

-Steve

More familiar with the 3 speed ones that the 4 speed

     But I do know that there is an idle speed difference
- ie install a manual trans ECU in a 93 auto and it will run rich (very minor) at idle, enough to   
  fail emissions and the idle speed is lower...check engine light comes on and there is no way
  to get it off no matter how many relays and sensors you change, the 3speed auto is not
  even connected to the ECU so the difference is in the programing. I learned this
  one from trying it.

Friend at GM is a diagnostic tech and he is the one that told me of the differences, couldn't find any other explanation, so his makes sense.

I understand with the 4speed auto the trans computer is built in.

Zag