Hey all, what are all the parts that I need to change my timing belt?  I'm going to be doing it this weekend.  Thanks!

Aaron

Timing belt for starters
and  the belt tensioner.
It wares out over time and is cheap insurance.

I would also recommend getting the foam gasket for the timing cover.

Keeps dust and crap from the belt and it's cheap.

Zag

while you are in there i would do the water pump also. seeing as how you have to take the cover and everything else off to get at it.my $.02

while you are in there i would do the water pump also. seeing as how you have to take the cover and everything else off to get at it.my $.02

True, true.
I forgot, sorry.
I did do this on both of mine.

Well, the car has a total of 105,000 miles on it and a lot are from towing.  I'm thinking it actually has about 70-80K on it.  Which is why I'm changing the timing belt...I think it is way past due.  But don't you think the H20 pump should another 50K till the next timing belt change?  Or are they known for only lasting about 100K.  I am usually a firm believer in once you're in there, get the job done but I also have a tight belt this month. 

Thanks

Aaron

well the pump is not cheep, I have changed the timing belts on 2 of these, without doing th epump, and ended up taking everything off less then a month later to change the pump.
my openion, change the pump tensioner belt, and adjust the valves while you are at it.

along with the standard compression check, vacume check, ignition timing check, all the usual round you do at about 50k, and if there is somthing in there you done know how to do , just ask manny ppl on this board to help 

I would pick up the oil seal for the crank, too... once you get in there for the timing belt would be a good time to change that if needed...

First off, I really appreciate all the help from y'all.  I was looking through the manual today and they mentioned to backoff the valve adjustment screws.  Why?  all I am doing is removing the tensioner then replacing the belt.  Do I really need to loosen the valve screws to do that?  I am assuming that if I slide off the old belt and slide on the new one I won't have to realine the camshaft and the crank as well.  Thanks for all the input. 

Aaron
90 Tracker/8V 1.6L

First off, I really appreciate all the help from y'all.  I was looking through the manual today and they mentioned to backoff the valve adjustment screws.  Why?  all I am doing is removing the tensioner then replacing the belt.  Do I really need to loosen the valve screws to do that?  I am assuming that if I slide off the old belt and slide on the new one I won't have to realine the camshaft and the crank as well.  Thanks for all the input. 

Aaron
90 Tracker/8V 1.6L

I think that is so that the cam WONT move when you pull the old belt.

Ahhhh, that makes good sense.  Thanks.  I guess I'll be pulling the valve cover too.

You'll probably need a new valve cover gasket, then, too

Before you pull the belt off, align the marks
on the crank and the cam pullies, the crank
tab pionts up, there should be a small arrow
on the oil pump housing, and the cam points
down (don't ask why it just does) then if you
move the cam or crank, it will be easy to get
back where it's supposed to be

Good Luck
Wild

Okay, changing the timing belt was a success.  The only problem I have now is adjusting the valves.  The manual said that they're set between .013 - .017 for the intake and .016 - .020 for the exhaust.  Well, I decided to set the intake at .015 and got rolling doing that and completely forgot to set the exhaust to .018.  I ended up setting it to .015 like the intake and didn't remember until I was test driving it.  It does make a little more valve noise, which has nothing to do with the exhaust valves being set to .015, so I think I need to go back in there and readjust them.  Would it really make that big of a difference if the exhaust is .015 instead of .016-.020?  Thanks for all the help and it seems to run great besides the tractor sound. 

Aaron

Intake and exhaust can be set about the same
.008 and .009 once again the Haynes or Chiltons
is wrong 

I just looked up my Haynes copy
intakes
.005-.007 cold
.009-.011 hot
exhausts
.006-.008 cold
.010-.012 hot

Hope this helps
Wild