...anyway.  I'm looking at trying to imlement the whole MS-1 V3 all in one shot, using MSnS-E firmware - I know that the falling edge of the signal from the hall-effect sensor in the dizzy is 75º before top dead center of the next cylinder, so timing it ought to be a snap, and with good specs on the injectors, establishing my basic fuel requirements ought to be pretty easy.  I am super excited about this.

Oh, and I am also working with Amp Technical Support to find out what the REAL Amp part number is for the connector on the stock Mitsubishi ECM, so I can just buy the connector new, instead of having to cut one out of a dead ECM.  This'll allow me to slap a MS into ANY Kick, using the factory wiring harness.  Best bet would be to make a small PC board, with the ECM connector on one side, and a DB37 on the other side, and pot the whole thing in Epoxy.

Epoxy or the gel is great........
Until a component goes south

You could water proof the board
with some clear VHT spray tho

Epoxy or the gel is great........
Until a component goes south

Well, that's the point - there ARE no components - Just a connector to plug into the vehicle wiring harness, and a connector to plug into the MegaSquirt.  It's just an adapter.

Does v3 still use the Dtype? usually they are only 5A rated so its pushing it a bit if you run high rpm a lot.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking here, but - the 16 Valve injectors are high impedance - at 12 ohms, they would draw 1 amp each, and the 4 injectors are split between 2 separate drivers, so each driver is only handling 2 amps, when it's "on".  If they were low impedance injectors, the MegaSquirt can switch to PWM drivers (it's done in software) - once the injector is open, you can hold it open by pulsing the drive current, reducing the average current as required.

The other high-current driver, is on the ignition - but that's not even needed, because the 16 Valve uses an intermediate "Igniter" to drive the coil - all you have to do is drive the Igniter, which has significantly lower current requirements (maybe half an amp).  BUT - the MegaSquirt COULD drive the coil directly.

There was some talk of switching to a different connector for Ultra MS. Its OK if you are running high impedance injectors but if you have low impedance injectors then you start pulling a LOT of current, I wasn't sure what the 16V had, the 8V ones are 0.8 to 1.8 ohms so if you get 0.8Ohms and the voltage goes up to 14V then you are pulling 17.5A, at 50% PWM then thats 8.75A. If you get up to pulsewidths approaching 60% then you start to exceed the 5A limit, if you apply derating to the pins which is standard practice then you are over your limit with just the one injector. You need to read the fine print on the connector spec to see if that rating is across its temperature range or just at 20C. Mil Spec connectors if you can get them are 7.5A across the whole temp range.
You also need to look at the power supply requirements. If you are driving VSVs and other stuff as well it soon adds up.
If you are looking to produce a unit for sale then you might think about dropping the 37 way and hardwiring the extender PCB to the MS PCB, maybe use pins through both PCBs.
I'm not having a go or knocking MS which is an excellent piece of kit. I'm just trying to help out a bit,  I have done a lot of research on the 8V stuff while developing mine (which won't be commercially available!). FWIW I was going to use 2 25 way D types on my prototype but dropped them for Mate N Lok II connectors, of all the readily available connectors I looked at they had the highest current rating for their size.

That aside  - another question on 16Vs, have you got the stepper motor EGR valve? If so are you going to drive that using MS's Idle Speed Controller

this is why i run a carb.....

Carb, look at all the education you are missing

Carbs don't idle well on bad hills,
EFI will run upside down   

A good aftermarket EFI is much easier to tune. You don't even have to lift the hood 

to be honest I probably know more about FI than my carb, but you guys lost me right around the second reply to this thread. 

There was some talk of switching to a different connector for Ultra MS. Its OK if you are running high impedance injectors

If you are looking to produce a unit for sale then you might think about dropping the 37 way and hardwiring the extender PCB to the MS PCB, maybe use pins through both PCBs.

That aside  - another question on 16Vs, have you got the stepper motor EGR valve? If so are you going to drive that using MS's Idle Speed Controller

OK, with the Hi-Z injectors on the 16 valve, we're talking about running ONE AMP through the DB37 pins - not a concern (there are FOUR pins for injectors.  Also, about HALF of the DB37 pins - at least 10 of them, anyway, are used for ground.

Nope - not interested in producing anything for sale.  But If I can show people how to hook a standard MS to the existing harness in their vehicle, I think a lot of people will try it.  Because you can buy a MS completely assembled, a lot of people will get past the fear of building a kit.

Nope no stepper on the EGR.  Hmm, what's the penalty of not even hooking up the EGR?

You loose three brownie points for not hooking up your egr vavle Bob, plus the men in black will be looking for you for polluting their air and messing with there overunitie drive on thier black pos cars.

Nope no stepper on the EGR.  Hmm, what's the penalty of not even hooking up the EGR?

Depends on what emissions tests you are going to be subjected to. If you don't have enough I/O on the MS then the stepper type EGR could be replaced with the earlier 8V TBI type which was activated by a much simpler VSV. If you don't have to meet emissions then yopu can leave it shut.
If you do need to meet emissions then I think you will have to make changes to the firmware or if you want to go 'retro', the late carb versions had all the emissions stuff which was operated by thermostats and vacuum valves, they were a PITA though.

Well, I don't have ANY emissions inspection.  My EGR valve, as far as I know, is not a stepper type - it's just on or off, or even vacuum driven - dang, I'm gonna have to look into that.  I sure am glad I laid out the bucks for the FSM's way back when I started this!

The FSM for the 8V is pretty good for all of this stuff, but it doesn't show the set up that I have. Mine is a late 8V (year 2000) and its TBI with a mix of the 8V and 16V bits and pieces. The reason that I didn't go with MS a couple of years ago was because v2.2 didn't have enough hardware functionality to directly replace the stock ECU, I do need the emissions stuff. I had a brief look at the v3 stuff earlier, it is a big step forward and it could be made to work. There are now enough I/O pins but it doesn't have any spare drivers or input circuitry although they could be added on the prototype area. I would have to run MSII though to get the stepper driver and then modify the firmware to get it to run the EGR instead of an ISC. Also it would require firmware mods to run the Throttle Opener VSV and the Canister Purge VSV. I'm fussy though so I'd still want to use the idle switch and the Vehicle speed sensor which MS doesn't seem to support, also I'd get annoyed with having a check engine light that didn't work.
I will look forward to seeing how you get on with this, when are you going to start fitting it all together?

I will look forward to seeing how you get on with this, when are you going to start fitting it all together?

I'm thinking THIS WEEKEND!  The CEL just came on hard, in my 4-door, daily driver, and NO codes flash, in the test - looks like the ECM is on the way out (but still working).  So I may have good news by Monday!