Cool, thanks.

Seems like every step I take brings another thing I can't find in the FSM or have to come and ask you guys about.

Okay, the intake manifold is on and the head is ready to be reinstalled.  I was going to just put loctite on the head bolts and tighten them down in the two step process until I read the Factory Service Manual.  It says to lube the head bolts with engine oil and then tighten them down.  However I know for a fact these had loctite/thread locker on them from the factory because they were a bit of a struggle to get loose.  So what should I use?

Oil or loctite?  Both (how exactly... )?  Neither?

Clean the threads clear with a wire wheel,
or a wire brush, light oil, wipe off any dripping
oil, you can use loc-tite on those, or just torque
them down without, I think the factory uses
loc-tite for an extra amount of guarantee that
the bolts don't come loose, more of a warantee
issue, a properly torqued bolt would be hard
pressed to work it's way loose, espessialy on
the head.

I had new bolts so I just dipped them in 5w30 and installed them in two stages of torque, 27ft/lbs and then 54ft/lbs.  Thanks for the advice.

Head's on, timing belt's on, just getting things ready to do the valves tomorrow and then change the sprocket on the crank.

I got a bit worried when the FSM said to make sure the side of the cylinder head gasket that said TOP was up.  My Victor-Reinz didn't have any labelling.  Then I realized there was only one way you could put the gasket on...and I felt rather silly...

I had new bolts so I just dipped them in 5w30 and installed them in two stages of torque, 27ft/lbs and then 54ft/lbs.  Thanks for the advice.

Head's on, timing belt's on, just getting things ready to do the valves tomorrow and then change the sprocket on the crank.

Check your PM.

Check..ing..

I got a bit worried when the FSM said to make sure the side of the cylinder head gasket that said TOP was up.  My Victor-Reinz didn't have any labelling.  Then I realized there was only one way you could put the gasket on...and I felt rather silly...

Well that's not actually true, it might look like it,
but if you get the gasket on wrong, the head will
get no oil and seize the cam journals in short time

There is an oil hole that must be lined up properly.

Well, you'd have to be covering up several holes and have holes in the gasket over bare metal in order to do that.  Mine had holes on each (left or right) side that corresponded with holes in the block so that's what I ment by there was only one way to put it on.

OK, it sounds like you got it installed right.

You would be surprised how many people
don't notice things like the oiling hole, and
seize the head about 5 min after startup

Knock on wood I got it right.  However I know the holes in the driver's side of the block had corresponding holes in the gasket and I lined those up for sure.

This is the hole in question, if this
is not blocked off with the gasket
then you are good

Curious:  did you find a reason for the high carbon deposits on the #1 & 2 cylinders?  Any leakage should have been obvious on the surface of the head/block/head gasket (different colorations). 

Enjoy!

I think the valves were just gone and the rear two got a steam cleaning from the gasket leak.

Okay, just got it all together, filled the radiator, filled the the crankcase.  Started right up, idled high since it was cold and is now chugging along 15min later at about 800rpm.  The problem...white smoke. ???  Is this to be expected, should I wait for it to warm up...I guess I don't know.  Kinda at a loss and don't want to get dissappointed before I know more.

Sounds like you are sucking coolant,
check the gasket between the intake
and the head.

Look for some coolant loss or does the
white smoke smell like coolant