do you have bubbles  in the rad comming out?  praire dog  and i did his 1.6 and it smoked till it got warm and the gasket sealed...was fine after that....

I let it run for a good half an hour.  Idled about 800rpm but bumped up to 1200rpm or so once or twice.  Thermostat opening?  Got nice and hot actually, probably a couple milimeters from the red mark on the temp guage.

Smoked the whole time.  Now I have coolant all over the floor and the bottle is empty.  Some was dribbling out of the overflow bottle but I'm not sure how that would work.  Doesn't appear to be any leaks from the radiator or block area.

The exhaust wouldn't smell like coolant because I filled it with water.  I doubted the thing had been flushed recently so I figured I'd dump the water and fill it with coolant after I got it running right.

Wonder if Shredder wants another Tracker....

Did you check the head to make sure
it wasn't warped ? Could be a bad seal
on the head gasket, or did the head get
torqued down in the proper sequence and
to the right torque specs???

It's a used head I got from Zaggy who said it was off a good running Kick.  I had the local machine shop test it, mill it, and do the valves.  They said it checked out with no cracks, warpage, etc.

54ft/lbs in two stages following the FSM's sequence.

I guess it sits until I have time to f with the thing.  School starts tomorrow.

OK, the head is good if it's been checked
like that, I say go back to the intake manifold
gasket, It's sucking coolant or water thru from
the inside, I've seen this happen before, and
that's the only place it could be getting the
coolant from, unless the head gasket is on wrong

Back to that again  , BUT your cam didn't seize
in the head, so it's probably right

Good Luck, keep us posted
Wild

Is there a proper way to break the torque on the head?

Should I try for a little bit tighter, say 60ft/lbs which would be 10% more?

There is, but I don't think it's as critical as
tightening, you could retorque the head bolts,
60 wouldn't cause any problems, but I don't
think it would help.

Did you rebuild the bottom end (pistons and or rings ??)

Didn't touch the bottom end other than cleaning some of the crap on pistons 1 and 2.

I'm going to check the intake manifold again soon.  Kinda wondering about it now that you mentioned it.  There's a couple bolts on the bottom that are about impossible to tighten with a ratchet or torque wrench so I dunno if I might have not given them enough torque...maybe.

Whoa........

You said coolant was all on the floor and none in the engine...right?

Which side of the engine is the coolant coming from...drivers or passengers?
Did you follow the torque sequence for the bolts?
All hoses tight (don't know how many times I've missed a clamp over the years)?

I think you will find it is something simple......got an air hose? Fill with water and lightly
pressure the rad while you dash around with a trouble light to find the leak.

Don't let it get you frustrated...it will be something simple I believe.

Zag

Haven't even had time to check the radiator/engine for coolant yet.  School started.  Amazing how much time it takes up.

I think the water/coolant on the ground was from the overflow bottle.  There was definately coolant there and the only place that had a large amount of coolant was the overflow, the radiator I filled with straight water for the first run.

I'll double check all the hoses, although I did as you said and missed one...only to find it rather messily upon starting the engine.

How would I pressure the radiator with an air hose?  Just hold it into the water and let it go?

Wild/anyone, should I just try to retorque the intake manifold bolts or should I remove the whole thing and try again?  I'm wondering about the bottom bolts/studs that are about impossible to get to.

You might have to use a wrench instead
of a socket, if you don't have a "feel" for
the right torque, practice a little, tighten
the other nuts and feel where they start
to tighten, then get under the intake and
go at it.

A tool I find a lot of help for tight spots is a wobble drive extension.  Sears sells them under the import brand (Companion).  10 or 15 bucks for a set.  Might be all you need to get in there.

Typing now corrected

Proper torque is about 22ft/lbs for the intake and exhaust manifolds, correct?

Okay, finally got time to dink with it a little bit.  The oil doesn't look like a milkshake, but would it with water, not antifreeze?  Nothing special on the oil cap and the dipstick looks clean, just regular new oil.

The overflow bottle was down maybe half it's capacity, but it was mostly water, not coolant.  The radiator didn't need a lot of water for me to fill it, less than a gallon.  The pail I used to fill it on Monday was under 4 gallons in capacity and I still have a third to a half of water in it.

Had some...stuff...kinda grey/brownish floating on the top of the radiator.  Dunno if it was oil, oil/coolant milkshake left over, or just funk from this thing not having the radiator cleaned out.  Wasn't much, I cleaned up most of it with one square of paper towl just dabbing it into the neck.

That's all I have for now.  If I get my History homework done I'll dink with it again tomorrow.

...anybody...?