So I have more problems now...  Here was my previous thread....
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=1008.0

I just kept driving it to see what would happen, planning to just fix it if it broke...Well, you guessed it, it broke.  Last night, it started acting like the the clutch wouldn't fully disengage, even when I stomped the piss out of the pedal and made sure it was ON the floor, with no floormat under it.  With the pedal down, it didn't wanna go into gear (only tried 1st and 2nd).  Sitting on level ground, with the pedal in, I could push the shifter towards 1st or 2nd and, not going into gear, it would rock the truck, by me pushing the shifter towards the gear and letting off.  So I'd have to slam it into 2nd and take off in 2nd, or take off and little to get rolling and then put it in 1st. Needless to say, with the clutch not fully disegaging, the clutch was letting out RIGHT at the floor.  Well later that night, the pedal feel all of a sudden changed.  It almost fell to the floor, it went into gear with ease, but the clutch didn't let out till the tip top of the pedal travel.  It did that a while, then, I put it in 4 wheel high to get in/out of the driveway (got a good bit of snow) and when I went to back into the driveway, it was back to not wanting to go into gear and letting out at the floor.  What is up guys?  Think I need a clutch, or could it be the cable?  If I put a clutch in it, what should I go with.  My dad is store manager at Advance Auto Parts, and I can get an entire Perfection (Zoom) clutch kit from him for $138 with t/o bearing and p bearing.  The Centerforce stuff isn't cheap.  The regular is like $200 and the Dual Friction is like $230 plus shipping, and another $40-50 for the bearings.  What do you guys think?  The truck has 31x10.50s on it and is mostly a street truck to get me around in the snow.  It occasionally goes offroad.  The other side of it is I don't wanna be doing this again in a year or 2.  Any input is greatly appreciated.  Also, any tips of doing the clutch job would also be appreciated, because I don't have the money to pay someone to do this, and I don't like paying people to do things I can do myself. 

Thanks in advance!
Bryan

I would check the clutch cable first. Check adjustment, then check for breakage. They're not to expensive.

Clutches are not that hard. I used a rachet strap over top of a piece of 2x4 I had running over the convertable top, and used that to raise and lower it. Very easy to do. 

I'll check that...  care to point me in the direction of where the adjustment mechanism is?  And would I want to tighten, or loosen it?  I've never dealt with a cable clutch before...    Thanks for the ratchet strap tip.  Did you run that down through the shifter hole?

Thanks again, keep the input coming guys!
Bryan

check around the exhaust manifold area. the cable usually breaks there. you will notice the cable strands poking out the rubber line that holds it in.

I'll check that...  care to point me in the direction of where the adjustment mechanism is?  And would I want to tighten, or loosen it?  I've never dealt with a cable clutch before...    Thanks for the ratchet strap tip.  Did you run that down through the shifter hole?

Thanks again, keep the input coming guys!
Bryan

Where offlimits said, and also on the pass side of the tranny. That is where the is some adjustment avaliable, from what it sounds like, you may need to tighten it, but if it is very loose, it ids probably broken.

And yes, I ran the rachet strap in the shifter hole.

I had a similar problem at Zukimelt last year. 

The cable can stretch, and you can sometimes get it back by tightening the adjustment down a turn or two.  Problem with mine was rust, and the threaded rod broke when we tried to crank it down.  New cable was about $15 but we had to borrow a truck and go to Lafayette to get it.  ( Thanks Brandi!!!) 

It has taken several adjustments to finally get it right ( real easy-  five minutes with a new cable with no rust).  The clutch itself still seems to have life left in it at 100K...

My philosophy ( passed down from my dad) is do the cheap repair first

Definitely plan on checking the cable first.  Checked with dad and it's a $22 part.  Can't beat that!  I'll get under her and see what she looks like.  If I replace it and that doesn't fix it, I guess it's time to have some fun...  ugh.

changing the clutch isnt that bad,  on mine i got everything disconnected (all tranny bolts, starter, clutch cable, speedo cable, driveshafts, crossmember,  both shifters need to come out, and drain tranny and transfer case oil) i had a few buddys come over and help me lower it down.  i had the same idea you had, drive it until it dies. i kept adjusting the cable because it engaged right on the floor, and then it drove fine for a week and all of the sudden it would tgo into gear. it ate a whole side off the clutch plate. if your changing the clutch, you might as well change the cable too. both were bad on my 95 tracker. good luck!

Actually went the clutch is wearing out you want to loosen the cable to move the throw out bearing away from the pressure plate if you tighten it it will not allow the clutch the engage properly and can cause slipping I think it sounds like a buggered cable its to erratic to be just an adjustment

Sounds good guys... I'm gonna try changing the cable and see what happens.  How hard is the cable to change by itself?  Shouldn't be too bad.  Also, when adjusting the cable, if I tighten it, the clutch will let out closer to the top, or closer to the floor???  And if I loosen it, vice versa I assume...

Thanks guys!
Bryan

I changed mine in about 45 minutes. 

Laying the spare tire on the ground and running the passenger side front tire up on it raised it up enough to do the job. 

To get less throw (disengage farther from floor) tighten the adjustment.  It is at the attachment point of the cable to the link on the trans.

to adjust the clutch you want 1 inch of free play at the top of the pedal which equals about 1/8 of an inch of a gap between the throw out bearing and the pressureplate
adjust until you meet this spec this Ideal

Most people make the mistake of adlust for pedal from the floor and all you adjust is the free play with the cable thats all you have to worry about

peace Dustin

Clutch change is fairly straight forward.  Use a torque wrench when tightening stuff up. 
check your u joints for flexibility while you have the drive shafts out (should also be cheap).  If you change any out, also change the other one on the drive shaft.  Stock replacement clutch is fine for what you described.

 I had the same thing happen 2 weeks after I put a new clutch in, the little pin the T/O bearing clips into had chunk out of it and the bearing had to much side to side play and would get stuck.

 I could not get it into any gear then the next time I had gears but no go (clutch stuck on)

 I had to drop the tranny and scratch my head for a 1/2 hour ( everything was new?)

 Changed the little pin and good as new

 Oh ya, I changed the cable first with no luck ( but go for the simple fix first, tranny took me like 3 - 3 1/2 hours  )

My .02
 Steve