OK, I've got a 2000 chevy tracker, 2dr, 2.0L, 5spd, 4x4 and I've been over this article like 8 times:

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_030104/feature_tsb_shiftontheflyremoval.htm

and It sounds like a sweet swap.  I'd do it in a second but  the author calls for you to use a JAPANESE built tracker from the years 96-98.  I've been hunting for said truck for some time via the VIN clue ha gave and I've met only with failure.  Every 96-98 tracker I check in the USA is from Canada.  I live in NJ and I'm not getting parts shipped from half way round the world at some rediculous price.

I've read alot about guys with basicly any year tracker/kick swapping the steel diff and axle case from a GV over like it ain't no thing, regardless of the trucks country of origin.  If the AL diff and steel diffs are all basicly the same dimensionally why couldn't I just swap over the aluminum center section from an earlier tracker into mine.  I don't want to upgrade to a steel unit or up the strength by any major amount.  I just want to ditch this stupid air actuated diff and put manual hubs on for reliability sake. 

I haven't been looking too hard, but I have been keeping my eye open in various places.  From the OEM parts cataog it looks like the axle assembly (CVs) are different between the Japense and Canadian trackkicks.  The diffs were the same so you could get those locally and just order the CVs elsewhere.

It would be great if one of the more mechanically inclined members could do this and compare the different CV's to let us know how hard it would be if we can't get the Japanese ones.... actaully this might be a good topic for the main forum

Been there, done that:

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=10629.0

Didn't get an answer, so now I'm here.  I'm guessing that if the CV's are different....its gotta be a length issue.  the end effects should be the same.  I wonder if I could just cut the CV shaft in the center, find a 3/16" wall tube to go over the shaft, adjust the length as needed and weld it together.  Either that, or swap diff side of the 96-98 tracker cv onto the existing 2000 tracker cv shaft and use that.  SUGGESTIONS? IDEAS?

Oh yeah, I replied to that didn't I.  Well I just brought the question up again...

I did some more searching and I found this from Yankee Tim (I believe he was mainly responsible for that article.

Nope.  I've got a '00 GV Ltd., auto and made in the land of the rising sun.  In the beginning, the 4 banger Vits were Canuck and the V6 GVs were Jap.  All Chevy Trackers were 4-bangers and CAMI built.

Now, it might have changed along the way, as the V6 was eventually introduced into the Chevy line-up.  But now the CAMI plant will make Vues, anf the Tracker is history.  At the same time, ASMC nixs the 4-bangers and the 2-dr, leaving only 4-dr V6s.  This would support the claim that the 4-bangers were CAMI and the V6's were Jap.

but VIN starting with "J" is from Japan, and a lead off digit of "2" meant it was CAMI.

There is other differences too, like in the front diff.  Call a parts place and ask for a CV shaft for a 1997 Sidekick.  Besides, the motor size (1.6 or 1., the final question that is asked if it is Japanese made or Canadian, with each make having a different part #.  I heard that the axle diameter is ever so slightly different between the two.

Go figure.

My Tracker is CAMI built (2CNB).  Makes me wonder if he said you need the Japanese axles because his GV was Japan built?

Have you considered the Sport model Sidekicks from the late 90's?  If I remember correctly they are all Japanese built.

The article actually is specific in saying that the 1.8L trackers won't work.....I'm really considering my idea bout swappin the diff side output on the CV shaft and using the "Hybrid shaft to get the early diff to work

Also, if I run this setup with a Sammy diff and tracker 5.13 gear(5.13 tracker diff in the rear) along w/ the steel tracker axle case I'd be good to go and bulletproof.  any sudjestions?

I'm really considering my idea bout swappin the diff side output on the CV shaft and using the "Hybrid shaft to get the early diff to work

Also, if I run this setup with a Sammy diff and tracker 5.13 gear(5.13 tracker diff in the rear) along w/ the steel tracker axle case I'd be good to go and bulletproof. 

I've thought about that some, but decided that if I lock the front I'm going with an ARB.  The other option would be to look into the new TrailTouch front locker
http://www.trailtough.com/sidekick.htm
It comes with a new carrier (assuming it's quality steel), plus you might get the help of a good vendor work out any issues.

any suggestions?

YES!!!!  Give us lots of info when you do it 

  I just want to ditch this stupid air actuated diff and put manual hubs on for reliability sake.

I think it's just you! I don't see the need to replace the axles over this.  Why not just switch the auto hubs for Warn manual hubs.  It takes about 15 minutes to remove the auto hubs, and another 15 to bolt on the Warn manual hubs.  That's really all there is to it.  Now you have manual hubs.  The Warn hubs are about $60 for a pair from any auto parts dealer.

  I just want to ditch this stupid air actuated diff and put manual hubs on for reliability sake.

I think it's just you! I don't see the need to replace the axles over this.  Why not just switch the auto hubs for Warn manual hubs.  It takes about 15 minutes to remove the auto hubs, and another 15 to bolt on the Warn manual hubs.  That's really all there is to it.  Now you have manual hubs.  The Warn hubs are about $60 for a pair from any auto parts dealer.

A - You're missing the point.  The two peice axleshafts with the actuator and all that crap on them are more complex and weaker than a standard, simple, 1 peice axle shaft.  It's more stuff to leak, break, bend, lose, malfunction, etc.  You can put the manual hubs on (like I did) and not have all that stuff spinning but you still have the multipeice axle on that side along with the air actuator.  Chevy, Jeep and Dodge guys have been battling this sort of POS technology for 2 decades now.

B - Show me somewhere that you can find those Warn hubs for $60 a pair.  The cheapest I found them was about double that with shipping off of Ebay.  Even the cheap, low quality Warn hubs were over $110 shipped.  Luckily we can get used Samurai or Tracker/Kick OEM Aisin hubs for MUCH less than Warn hubs.

Also one more reason why you would want to swap out the axles/diff for this upgrade is so you can run a locker.  No one make a locker (or LSD) that works with the air actuated diff, if you swap in a normal diff from a sidekick there are several options.

I actually have not heard of anyone having problems with the air actuated diff from Suzuki, but I guess other brands (Chevy, Ford) have been very unreliable with this kind of technology in the past.  As AJMBLAZER stated, it is just another piece that can go wrong.  Wouldn't it suck if you get stuck in the snow and you can shift into 4wd because your airline is frozen up 

There's been people on this forum that have reported stuff going wrong with the system and I have heard of the air line getting caught/damaged and the unit failing.  Can't say as anyone with a Kick/Tracker has had the same problems.

I had a somewhat similar setup on my '92 Chevy Blazer K1500 and it sucked.  Disengaged when you turned the engine off, at times it would just not engage, and oh yeah, when it was really cold it was kinda sluggish to operate.