With any luck the GV goes under the knife this weekend.  Got any recommendations as to what I should do and not do?

Who's got a required tool list I could browse through?

Thoughts and comments very welcome.

Alright, I will try to get the write up I've been planning on done this week.  As far as tools go, It was pretty much just your basic handtools (and I don't have a well equiped garage... yet)

Metric sockets (good set)
socket wrench
breaker bar
torque wrench
extensions (handy, wobbly extension especially handy)
Metric comination wrench set
Snap ring plyers
BFH

1 more thing, something to hold the strut washer while you unbolt it, also useful for the bump stops.  On the driver's side I was able to fit a 14" pipe wrench in the engine compartement, on the passenger's side I ended up using a 4" c-clamp.  A 12" pipe wrench might work on both sides (all my adjustable wrenches were either too long, or too small).  Some large channel locks would work good to, but you will likely need an extra set of hands to hold them while you get the nut off of the strut.

A pipe wrench worked perfectly on bump stops (the factory manual says to use a special tool hahaha)

what are you doing? lifting it? If so there is a procedure on how to take the suspension apart and reassemble for kicks and it's basicly the same process only I'd remove the panhard bar before lowering the rear axle so it doesn't move sideways on you.

I haven't lifted a zuk yet but I've put quite a great deal of time into understanding how so I'm not the greatest to get advice from but there's what I have.

can't find the link on that procedure, only a body lift.. I know there is a suspension procedure in there too but I cna't find it right now, sorry

Maplebar, I'd appreciate that write up verrrry much.

Did you slot the struts or use camber bolts for the front end?

Strut washer...dunno what that is...although I likely call it thingymajiggy or something, what's it look like?

I used camber bolts, the alignment shop said they were able to get the camber within spec. but it was on the very edge of the spec.

The strut washer is a big octagonol washer on the strut.  It acts as a washer, but it is also slotted so you can hold the strut in place while you unscrew the nut. 

You can see it in the middle of the mount for the strut tower brace.


Holding the washer still while you unscrew the nut can be a real PIA since it is torqued to 50-60 lbs.  In hindsight, it might be easier to remove the whole strut mount and dissasemble the strut on a benchtop (with a vise )

Oh gotcha.  That woulda been a thingamajig to me.  I'll probably end up doing it like you did it and clamp it in place or something.

I'm wondering if I should slot my struts upper holes a bit?

Maroon, removing the Panhard is not necessary
What is for the rear is removing the brake hose clamps, the ABS cable clamps and the parking brake clamps. And disconnect the diff breather. Then remove the shock and lower away!
For the front, I removed the strut bar. Then I removed the strut support (the black part that is supported by 3 bolts), to remove the whole strut and its support. The you can get a vise on your bench to firmly grasp that washer and you can remove the nut with the wheel tool (it's actually a very useful tool! ).

Dumb question but with the snap ring pliers do I need the regular kind where the prongs stick straight out or the ones where the prongs bend 90 degrees?


...write up...write up...write up...

I used the kind with a 90 degree bend, you could probably do it with the straight kind but it would be more difficult to grip.  I had to buy them so I just got a 4-5 piece set from harbor freight so I didn't have to worry about having the right kind

you should also have a scervice manual, it helped me yesterday.
it was easy to remove the gearbox when we had it.
and it does help to have a friend who has been working at Suzuki's for 7years -he became a phone consultant

we also found out that zuki uses some odd sizes on the bolts, 12mm and so on.

Maroon, removing the Panhard is not necessary
What is for the rear is removing the brake hose clamps, the ABS cable clamps and the parking brake clamps. And disconnect the diff breather. Then remove the shock and lower away!
For the front, I removed the strut bar. Then I removed the strut support (the black part that is supported by 3 bolts), to remove the whole strut and its support. The you can get a vise on your bench to firmly grasp that washer and you can remove the nut with the wheel tool (it's actually a very useful tool! ).

oh, didn't know, just seemed to make sense. thanks for the pointers though cause I might be messing with my back suspension soonish. I don't think anyone will know the difference after I do what I am planning but oh well.

Maplebar, thanks, I'll have to go out and grab a set of those pliers.  Seems like every time I need a set I have the wrong kind...luckily I thought to ask.

beerman, got a genuine Suzuki FSM sitting right here in fact.   Also have plenty of sockets, metric and standard.

Does any of this require andy really large sockets?  Above 3/4" or 19mm?  I can't see where but just want to make sure.

I used this type of pliers (this is it isn't it? )
http://fotos.miarroba.com/fotos/8/3/83b56843.jpg

About the sockets, I think 19 is the largest (strut upper bolt). The rest are under...

Maroon, the Panhard does move the axle to the side if you lower it flat. But you would normally lower one side first, do whatever, then the other side. So the axle stays where it should, in the center. Besides, even if you lower the whole axle, I don't think it would matter too much...

k, thanks. With those dingies on the top strut mounts I was thinking a big cresent wrench to hold the big nut looking dinger and use an impact wrench on the top strut nut.. think that would work? I have a vice but it's not mounted on a bench so it's pretty useless

I'm not sure if it would work... If you have the tools, go on and try. I tried some invention but it didn't work, I had to remove everything.
My vice isn't attached anywhere either. I have a small one which is, but I used the large one I had from the other bench and I haven't attached it yet. It worked for me, I just placed it on the floor, my knees on the vice, and used the tire tool to remove the nut.
When putting it back together, remember to put thread lock on the nut, I forgot about mine and my strut came out in the middle of Barcelona! 5 minutes later it was back in place, but I had lost the rubber part and the washer. Somehow I found the nut on the engine mount and I was able to continue home.