Sidekick,
I'm about 6'3" tall to give you some idea of how much lift I actually ended up with.
I made my coil spacers from a 4" diameter solid rod of UHMW Polyethylene that I bought from
www.mcmaster.com, part number 8701k59. It goes for about $22 per foot + $5 or $6 shipping. They are not hard to make at all if you have some basic shop equipment or access to it. The hardest part is cutting the rod to length and keeping it close to square. The material is very dense and can be a little difficult to cut...not impossible, just a PITA. I have a cheapo horizontal band saw that i used (still didn't come out perfect because of blade deflection, but it doesn't have to be perfect
). I'm sure there are other ways you could cut it...it would just take a little extra work & patience. After you cut them to length you must cut a hole through them to fit over the bumpstop. To cut the holes you use a centering head for a combo square to mark the center point. You then drill a pilot hole all the way through the spacer. Then use a 2.5" diameter hole saw to cut out the hole. Most hole saws wont cut deep enough to go all the way through in one pass so you will need to drill half way, flip the piece over and drill through from the other side.
I cut my front spacers to 1.5" length. This equals out to a hair more than 2" of lift due to the leverage of the "A" arms. The rear spacers are cut to 2" for that much lift. If I were to do it again I might go 1.75" for the front...I'm putting a winch on next weekend and I'm concerned about it sagging a little. From what I've read thats about as much you want to go for just a plain old spacer lift in order to maintain proper cv angles. When you install them dont forget to reuse the rubber isolator pad at the top of the spring.
The body lift was made from the plan on Zuwharrie,
http://www.zuwharrie.com/content/view/11/27/ I wont go into detail there...the article does a pretty good job of explaining. Only one thing to note about it though; it says to drill one hole in your body spacer to 1/2" and the other to 3/8". It was mine and others' experience that both holes must be drilled to 1/2". This method of body lift actually nets you around 3.5" of lift.
On a final note, I did have to cut my front fenders and do some hammering on the inner fender to be able to turn to full lock. I cut about 1.75' at the bottom of the opening tapering into the natural arc of the original opening at point about 14.5" up from the bottom (in the side picture the fenders are not yet cut). I've been informed that a 3.5" to 3.75" back spacing on the rims eliminates much of the clearance issue...but I like tha wider stance of the 2.5" back spacing.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask me.
