Hey guys.  This is my first post.  I did search through the forum but did not find an answer to this.  I just bought a beater 92 jx sidekick 4wd (8v motor) as a secondary vehicle for the snow here in IL and for some trail riding in the summer.  I got it for $1075 (ebay)and the guy threw in some decent 235x75x15 tires for an extra $150 (this is definately a low budget project).  Today I installed 1.5" coil spring spacers (and flipped the front mounts) to gain some lift.  The 235's fit fine and had no rubbing previous to the lift and I had good clearance.  Now I am looking at what larger wheel I can put under this.  Will 30x9.5x15 size tires fit the stock rims or is 235's the largest I can go without changing rims.  I am not sure about a body lift later as the entire rear bed was rusted through (leaky softtop) and I had to cut and weld new metal in already so I am not sure I want to tackle rusted body mounts.  :^)  Also the engine runs pretty cool in the winter here.  It never gets to more than a quarter on the temp guage.  I had a geo metro once upon a time and ran cool too and I had to put the cardboard infront of the radiator.  Is this pretty typical of these suzuki engines?  4wd works good on it and it has the auto hubs and so far no problems.  I do have to get use to how loud it is inside with road noise ect.  In the front there is a tube that goes between the frame rails that is rusted through that I have yet to fix.  How dangerous on a 1-10 scale is it to be driving it while that tube is inoperable? :^)  A similiar tube was rusted through in the rear that had the gas tank mounts.  I got some 2x2 steel square tube and welded it in place and fabbed new gas tank hanging brackets that are welded to it.  So far this has been a project full of rust and $urprises.  The previous owner had put new exhaust piping on it and elminated the cat (hope no one looks under her) and I had to replace the muffler.  The check engine light stays lit but it runs well.  Also the brake light stays lit but it doesn't leak fluid and the light gets brighter if I engage the emergency brake.  If anyone has some tips for me on polishing my turd I would appreciate it.  :^)

Don't take it wrong but you need to break your questions down. I got lost more than a few times trying to read your post.

Might get you more help if we know what you are really asking for, then again it might not.

I suppose it was several questions phased in a discussion.  :^)

1. will 30x9.5x15 tires fit on stock sidekick rims?
2. Front round tube across frame (in front of A arms) is damaged.  Is this dangerous? (I plan on fixing but hope to hold off till summer)
3. What are the common issues with the check engine light on but no apparent problems?
4. Same goes with the brake warning light?
5. Will the current 235's be weak on a medium difficulty trail?

if 235's fit stock rims, then i think 30x9.5's should also- similar width (i think 235's = |removethispart|@ 29x9.5).
jeep cj rims fit mine and can be real cheap, i got my 235/75's on 7" rims for $50.
the front tube on my '89 kick has control arm mounts on it and i would be concerned if it were compromised. sounds like you are quite capable of fixing.
my check engine light stays on too, but most of my smog is removed.
the brake light sounds odd- may be a defective switch at lever or bad ground there?
you can get some good info thru this forum, and it sounds like you're doing fine.

Thanks for the reply.  I am going to keep my eyes peeled for a set of rims locally.  If I could get a set of mud tires and rims for $300ish I would probably make the jump.  I see your tag shows your running 31's on your sidekick.  What was your impression when you switched from the 235's to 31s.  Do you feel there was a considerable difference performance wise between the two to justify the cost?

--Yea the A arms mount to the tube on the other side of the frame rail.  The tube on that side appears fine and its welded into the frame on both sides (its a boxed frame).  So the tube runs through the frame to the other side and is eaten out the middle.  Instead of using the square tube I think I should probably get the same size round tube and weld it into place.  I am just learning to weld myself (this kick is giving me plenty of opportunities) and only have a little 50 amp stick welder which was $100 new.  My beads look like crap but they seem to hold well.  :^)

i just mounted 30 x 9.5 x 15 on my tracker rims no problem without a lift they just clear the wheelwells under flex without a lift il post pics if i get a chance today

here is my cardomain that has a pic of them mounted.  see pic 30x9.5x15
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2934945/1

3. What are the common issues with the check engine light on but no apparent problems?

The Check Engine Light msay have been tripped by mileage. There should be a reset switch under the dash. A search should turn up a photo or two of where to find the switch.

heres a forum with a pic of the check engine switch 
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=13364.0

I had read about the switch but couldn't find it previously.  I looked again today I finnally found it.  Man they hide that well!  Flipped it and no more check engine light.  Sweet.  Only the brake light deal left.  Do these have a sensor for low fluid or anything like that which could be faulty?  (I had a fluid level sensor go bad on a escort before and just had to unplug it). 

Here is a couple of pics I took today showing my clearance with the 235's and the 1.5" coil spacers.  Keep in mind I have 140lbs of sand bags in the back right now.  :^)  I have to get the alignment done as the tires bow out at the top now. 

Oh, and this thing doesn't like me.  After my proud 6 hours of work on the lift install I pulled it out of the garage and got cleaned up.  Hour later I went to go to the grocery store and the locks had froze.  Even with wd-40 it took several minutes to get them open.  Then coming out of the store I loaded up and the pass door would not close.  The latch had froze and wouldn't lock (didn't bring the wd with me).  Had to drive home 2 miles holding door while shifting with left hand.  :^)  After soaking the latches with WD all was fine.  Every outing with this has been an adventure and I haven't seen a trail yet!  Does do great in the snow though. 

I have a samurai but I guess the ebrake is probably similar. There should be a float type switch in the master cylinder reservoir lid and there is also a little switch by the base of the ebrake lever.

my door freezes open often i just straighten the latch with my finger and it closes

Looking at my haynes manual it says the only adjustment on these is the toe-in.  Is that true?  And if so what do I do about the tires tilting out at the tops after the coil spacer lift?  Right now it has some toe-in and seems to drive ok but I am worried its going to wear the outsides of the tires and not give appropriate traction as the tires do not sit flush with the pavement.  Ideas?

My front crossmember was bad too, I used a piece of sc. 40 pipe, cut out the rusty metal and hammered the new piece in. Same thing on my older Tracker, at first, I didn't think much of it and put it off, but one day while checking a power steering leak, a friend of mine was cycling the steering while I was checking the hoses, I noticed the frame was moving back and forth just after my had got jammed between the radiator and the rad support. I fixed that one that day with similar pipe.

Here's the pipe:


And on the old one: