New here and trying to gain as much knowledge as I can, I am going to part with ford explorer and are looking at either an old wrangler or a tracker. I have found a 1996 4dr sidekick 112,000 miles, some rust and the back door doesn't open for 900.00  My question is that would be used primarily for highway driving 70 mph no offroading, the worst it will see is the snow on my road as how the county doesn't plow very often so maybe a small lift could be possible, just how capable is this vehicle and life expectancy for alot of highway use?

In my opinion, not the best choice just because they rev so dang high (4000 rpm |removethispart|@ 120km/h). They also like to hop in and out of the ruts created in the road by heavy semi trucks which causes a bit of a side-to-side wobble, therefore disabling you from text messaging and/or applying makeup while you cruise the interstate.

In my opinion, not the best choice just because they rev so dang high (4000 rpm |removethispart|@ 120km/h). They also like to hop in and out of the ruts created in the road by heavy semi trucks which causes a bit of a side-to-side wobble, therefore disabling you from text messaging and/or applying makeup while you cruise the interstate.

I have a '93 4-door with a rebuilt 1.6 16-valve and I deliver pizza in it.  I also drive it on the interstate. I drove it to the 'Melt - 950 miles round trip - one year and wheeled it STOCK!

I have to disagree about the "running the engine at 4k" concerns.  These engines are designed to run that way.  Their optimum power band is from just above 3000 to 4000 RPM and will run all day turning that fast.

As for being blown around on the highway, the 4-door model does well in cosswinds - either natural or semi-truck induced.  My stock two door Tracker gets blown around a little but not all that much in those plains-states gales that we occasionally have.  The Samurai can be a handful on the highway but even then, it is very controllable - 4.5" lift and all.

All my trucks get from 20 to 28 MPG (the 4-door being somewhere in the middle and the Samurai on top).  That might be a factor to consider depending on how the Wrangler does with gas.

I would be more concerned about the problem with the back door than anything else.

My 2 centavos...

I have a 94 Tracker and I commute 45 miles each way to work.  IT does good for me.  I have a 1.5" OME lift with 30" tires and I still get 27mpg.  I put in a good stero and sound proofed the cab and it is now a pretty nice ride.

 i have a 89 two door sidekick that i use for work . i put on about 190-300 miles a day on it . about half freeway driving .
 cross winds , trucks  and rutts , she wants to  wabble alittle  but nothing like my peeps i had .
 divability IMO is just as good as any Peep or lighter car like a Neon

also yeas the RPMs run high . 65 mp hour gets me about 3900 . 75 and its just over 4000, maybe 42 or 43 .
 but as the other poster said . these engines were built to  run in that range .
as long as i keep the top on and  stay under 4000 i get 30 + .
 top off 28 . over  4000 and she drops to the 25-27 mpg range with the top off

I know these engines were made to run well at 4000 rpm, but I still think that on flat ground you'd be getting better fuel economy at around 2500 or 3000 rpm. I think it's really dumb that Suzuki didn't give us a 6th gear to cruise in.

If you want to drop the RPMs, just put a little bigger tire on. 
I run 225/75 tires on my stock 92 4 door sidekick.....RPMs run a little under 3500 at 70MPH......the best it gets is 28-29MPG at 70. 
I run 215/75 tires on my 95 sidekick....RPMs run right at 3500 at 70MPH.....the best it gets is 30-32....but I have to run it at about 65MPH to get that.....at 70 it will still get about 27-28MPG.

The are both great DD's, as far as I am concerned.  They don't get blown around the road, and are not a handfull on a "grooved" road like samurais can be.  Plus both are 4wd and have AC (that gets used quite a bit in the summer).....and they still get upper 20s for MPG.....not bad, IMO.

I know these engines were made to run well at 4000 rpm, but I still think that on flat ground you'd be getting better fuel economy at around 2500 or 3000 rpm. I think it's really dumb that Suzuki didn't give us a 6th gear to cruise in.

So, if you think you can design a 4 door 4x4 that gets better gas mileage, build it. I'm getting 24-26 MPG in my rig. It's a 1.6L in a 4wd truck - not a 4.0L+. In order to get enough HP / Torque to move a 4-door 4x4 with a tiny 4-banger, they HAVE to engineer it to run high RPM. But, the head & cam profile is DESIGNED to run optimally at this RPM range. If you add bigger tires, or try to run a 6th gear, you'd likely loose MPG as the engine isn't very efficient below 3000 RPM.

To the original poster - it's an economical SUV. As long as you don't expect miracles from it, it's a great value. Good MPG, does fantastic in the snow, and cost you less than $1000. I doubt you'll find a better 4x4 for that price. And - 112,000 miles is still low miles. If you maintain the vehicle, it should be more or less trouble free for another 100,000 miles. Be aware you are close to the "major" tuneup that includes the timing belt change.

major tune up, that sounds interesting, I assume that the timing belt isnt all that difficult? Would possibly putting wheel spacers on adding to the width be a option or is that a no no(not knowing the wheel bearing set up/strength) and is the read door not opening a common thing or is this a unique thing, I could not get into it so as to see if the interior panel can be removed with the door closed, also there is an issue of rust at both rear wheel lips and across the back where the bottom edge of the glass meets themetal panel, I doubt if that has any bearing on the door opening.

I am not a fan of wheel spacers, personally.  But there are several guys that run them.

The rear door not opening is not a common problem.  It could just be locked, or there could be something broke or rusted up with the opener assembly that is causing it not to open.  The interior door panel can be taken off from the inside, and you should be able to get it open by moving some of the linkage, so you can find out what is wrong.  Sometimes it will hang up on the bumper cover.....just have to push down on the top of the bumper cover (where it meets the door) and the door will open right up.

I would buy the 4 door and drive it.  Do the maintanance cuz it may not have gotten any prior, check all fluids and/or change them all.  Plugs, wires, filters, timing belt, etc.  It will not disappoint you.  Keep the stock (or really close) tires on it for the best MPG. My 2 cents.

and is the read door not opening a common thing or is this a unique thing

Here in MN it is common.  When you take the back plastic cover off push the center of the plastic clips in to get the outer part to pull out.  When the cover comes off you can retrieve the center pins inside the bottom of the door.  Try to unlock the door also, spray everypart inside and the handle/key switch outside the door with a penetrating oil.  Let it sit and then try it again.  HTH  

I am not a fan of wheel spacers, personally.  But there are several guys that run them.

I run the 1" wheel spacers and like the change.  Before it just felt a bit to tippy when going into sharp corners at speed. 

man, i wish mine got the same mileage as you guys

ive had that "major" tune up and I only get 22-24mpg
(tho it is a stock 4 door/auto)

maybe i should get my O2 sensor replaced
(its throwing a code but ive been hesistant to spend the cash)
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Gen-Erix,
You're probably getting as good of MPG as you're going to get with an auto. Toss in 2 oz (no more) of Lucas Upper Cylindar Lube with each tank of gas. You should notice an MPG or three of gains. Don't bother swapping out the o2, odds are it's fine. You can test with a multi-meter if you want to verify.

major tune up, that sounds interesting, I assume that the timing belt isnt all that difficult?

My first time doing it took me all day. The lower rear bolts of the A/C compressor and Alternator are hard to get at. Be careful with the dist cap screws, the ones on mine were SUPER over-torqued, so the screws were sheared.

This is a 2-person job... so get a 6 pack, a Chilton manual and a friend. Will probably cost around $150 to do everything (cap, rotor, plugs & wires, belts, timing belt idler pulley, engine / trans /  t-case diff oils, oil filter, coolant flush, coolant, seafoam...) if you have all the hand tools for it. Buy some cheap ATF, and toss 1/2 or the full quart in with the engine oil. Drive around for 1/2 to 1 tank of gas before doing your tune up & oil change (ATF is high in detergents / cleaners). Inspect the back of the head - you may notice a lot of oil there. This is a suzuki thing, and likely means the distributor o-rings need to be refreshed with PB blast. Do this first so the o-rings are soaking while doing other stuff. It MAY just mean the valve cover isn't snugged - check the bolts (DON'T over-torque). Follow the negative lead to where it grounds - clean those areas & make sure you're getting good contact. Have your battery tested if you can. DO NOT over-torque things, but check every bolt you see to see if they're loose. Over-torquing on an aluminum block is a good way to strip bolt holes.

not to sure about the auto thing .
 as i said im getting 30 with my 3 speed auto . but again its a 2 door not a 4 .
suprisingly also  i find in hiway corners  my 2 door holds the road much better then i exspected


 the other thing to keep in mind about RPMs , power and fuel use is how  the  fuel curves were set up  in the ECM .
 normaly with fatcory set up the   best fuel and power is set up for a given RPM range ..
 
 when folks  re chip an ECM many times they will use  readly avalable  programs . i think Mega squirt has one . these show a 3D vie of  fuel curves  through the rpm range .
i can say that if the Gm ECM  for my 4.3 is ant comparission  the programing could benifit  from smoothing things out

 i have not done that with me sidekick , dont know that i will . but i can say that i get  the best MPG  and power at over 3000 and under 4000
 thus this makes me feel that the engine  is set up  to run  the most efficiantly somewhere in that range