gesh this topic heated up quite quickly..

the axels that will be used have a life time garentee..so they should be prety strong

couldnt u fix the rubbing by going with smaller tires??

I don't know if I'd say 'heated'.  I'm just trying to make sure that that people know what they might be getting into with this setup.

The dream of "lifetime axles"  That'll be the day...  
Does anybody reading this have any experience with "lifetime axles"?

All I can say is, good luck tracking down the shop owner after they are out of business in say 5 years to warrantee those axles.

The ONLY truely "LIFETIME" anything that I know of might be the Craftsman brand.  (they've been around for a few generations now and still warantee their tools)   Can you say that about the company you are buying your axles from?

Besides.  I think in the long run, I'd rather NOT have to warantee my parts.  

The though of having to carry those types of spare parts in the field knowing that they'll break just to get them warranteed or face the alternative of being stranded in the middle of no-where, leaves me wanting parts that just don't break, ever.

*boggle*  Smaller tires?  *boggle*

Gasp at the thought.  

I need to go 36s, just to get the speedo close to being right with my existing setup.  (or ~4.62's with 33s)

I think that after all of the work I had to put into going SAS in the first place.  Especially since almost everything was built from scratch, I should have gotten it right the first time, rather then having to re-do it later because of the lamer idea of "Well this is good for now, lets go with it."

Good luck,
~Nate

http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

hummm, makes me think about SAS again.  i hate you guys.

what year landcruser axles would be best?

stu

 Funny, I didn't think that a company that has been in business for better than 60 years that currently produces the Newfield joints for Toyotas that are "Lifetime guarantee", is considered a fly by night company. I would think that they would be called a stable bet for future business. Wouldn't you think, Nate?
The joints are only going to be sold by www.roadlessgear.com and me. Retail is $580 plus shipping.
I thought you guys only rubbed on the coil buckets on the rear and the shock mounts? Wasn't aware that you rubbed on the frame too.
And even with all the breakage of rear shafts you've had, why do you still run stock shafts in the rear and continue to complain about the "weak" Suzuki shafts? Why not go with a good quality chro-moly shaft and get it over with? The only thing that was done with your rear end vs. stock was a locker and some housing beefing, right? Stock brakes and shafts, right?
Even the Toy stuff breaks. The low Toy axle gears, 5.29s and lower, are not very strong, just ask anyone on the Toyota forums. Even with the 4 cyl. engines they break. Toyota Land Cruiser axles are very expensive to do anything to, lock, shaft upgrade, regear, etc. And if you do end up redoing things with the toy stuff, you don't need Toy cruiser axles if you do the kicker2, the Toy case you use is a truck case, with a centered rear output. The only Toy truck rear that is as wide as a kick is 88 up IFS rear end. It is 3" wider than the earlier Toy truck rear axles. The Toy birfs are just as weak as the sammy birfs when they are turned, but they cost a lot more to replace and are harder to change out.
True, since my truck was put together, it hasn't wheeled as hard as I used to, but I also got married since then and haven't had a lot of time to do that at all. I have wheeled it reasonably and been very happy with the results after different mods.
And why would you have to go with 36s to make your speedo correct? I have the same setup in my lwb with 35s and the speedo is spot on.
Who told you the Toy stuff never breaks? Read it over thoroughly on other forums, you'll find the Toy stuff still breaks with that kind of torque.

 And it doesn't matter what axle you have, if you have insane gearing, bigger tires, and a locker, you are going to break stock axle shafts, that is just how it works. No OEM parts supplier uses chro-moly in their factory axle shafts.
By the way, OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer.

Thank you for making my point.  Which is why I said in the first place, Go wider and stronger and you'll thank me.

But you did bring up another subject, I do need higher gears then 5.12s, not lower.  I'm already way over revving.  So what a better time to do it then when I get wider and stronger axles.  Not expensive custom, stuff.  Just stronger and better.

But I do need to just to ask another question of which I already know the answer.  When was the last time you drove 75 down the freeway in your truck?
When it was stock?  Before you went 33s ?  Certainly not since you put in your kicker 3.  I say this because it's been in pieces ever since.  So the "solution" can't be working out that well for you either.  You don't drive it at all since its all over your front yard.  

Kimball, I'm just saying that if I had to do it all over again.  I would NOT have chosen the solution I did.  And I have some very specific reasons of which you can not argue with.

If anybody would like to ask me why, or hasn't already figured it out already, and want to ask.  Please feel free to do so.

Thanks,
~Nate

ok so i am going full floater in the rear =)

ok ok ok ok ok =)....soooooooooooooooooooooo as long as everything pans out my kick will go under the knife to breathe life into a LWB sami!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! =)

again idaho will have to breif the world on the specifics....but itl but just like the kick..2"wider with the kick 1.6(turbod soon)

 

*smoke*
&
*mirrors*


I told you so.
~Nater

smoke and mirrors what??

the only reason it is going to be any wider is because it will rub on the springs in the sami...would have been fine in the zuki

Mike,
 I would say if your going to undergo a huge project, the bigger the better. Use whatever the meanest lift, drivetrain and gears your time and budget could afford.  If you can do it, get nate's Landcruiser setup if you can.  Go big man.  If you like Idaho's setup better, it's your rig man.  Good luck and make it hurt!!

well it will be big..and it will be strong..there are differing oppinons of strong i know..but a full floater has chromoly axel shafts in it...so really itl be just like the front in that the hub will blow before anything else (atleased from what i understand)

it will be big and it will be beefy..it will not be sky high though since i want to keep the off camber pucker to a minimum lol like i stated before it will most likely run 33"s on the trail and 35"-37"s on the street (bigger is better right idaho? =))

it will have chomoly front axel (shafts??) with front and rear lockers..the hubs will be those warn hubs that have the fuses in them

there will be a full kicker 3 upgrade done to the t-case so i will have a nice crawl ratio

hmm what else what else...looks like itl run a full cage from front to back an ingenious seat/storage/sub box interchanble deal that idaho has come up with..down the road itl run on board air and on board water blatter as well as a nice winch =)

the driveshafts will be specially made someplace in AZ (forgot the name offhand idaho??)

oh also...i am still wanting to run a turbo setup on it..that is 8-9months away now though

i have told idaho that if it comes to saving money and ditching strength i will gladly fork over the extra doe to do it right the first time =)

that is all i can think of here...anyone having any commments or questions post away (please keep them civilized and no bad mouthing please) that is the plan =)

I'd like to hear more about this seat/storage deal....Idaho??

picture this..u have 2 racing type high back seats..same as in NC-Zukes orenge sami

each seat has its own square frame that it sits on...there are 8 bolts coming out of the floor of the truck...on each seat frame there are 4 bushing that correspond to the bolts..u get that right? that makes each seat easy to take out and put in..that way u can have 2 seats or 1 seat and a cooler (cooler is bolted in with the same bolt patter) or no seat and a large tool box..whatever u wanted just aslong as the bolt patters lined up

i belive the bushing (if soft enough) would help alliviate tool rattle or whatever u had in the large tool box...also it will make it easy to run seatless if u wanted to

could also be implimented in a SWB sami or kick =)

Hmm, an interesting concept.  Almost makes me rethink my swing out-Chevy Avalanche-like rear saddle box idea