ok with all luck i will have a second 16V parts tracker.  i have been thinking about swiching to the 16V for the added power and whatever else is better about the engine.  we will be swaping the whole 16V engine in so their won't be any piston issues or anything like that.  what kind of wireing will i have to deal with?  the truck its coming out of is a 5 speed 4X4.  and is their any other things i sould know about before doing the swap?  

thanks stu

 My recommendation is to use the harness and tank from the donor as well. It would make the swap just that much less painful.

When I asked this very question quite a while ago (not searching, lazy) I was told that the transmissions were the same, but the bellhousings aren't, so you'll need to use the 16v bellhousing...

When I asked this very question quite a while ago (not searching, lazy) I was told that the transmissions were the same, but the bellhousings aren't, so you'll need to use the 16v bellhousing...

Unless their is a difference I am unaware of, the 16v & 8v block is the same.  We just swapped one 16v into a Sammy and used the standard TT Adapter kit.   It looked no different then an 8v.  It would be easiest as said, Swap the tank and harness complete.  Once you dive into the swap it will become very clear how far you will need to take the wiring.  I'm not sure how common the different harnesses are and what exactly will plug & play.  

Isn't the donor a 4 door, in that case the tank wont fit into your 2 door will it?

do i switch just the pump or the whole tank?  i have my tank mounted in the back where the back seat was.

stu

If you are EFI the old tank should work,
all you need is Fuel PSI line, Fuel Return Line,
and a Vapor Return line, just hook the lines
up like the old one was

Wild

 The  only difference in the bellhousing with any 1.6, is the newer 8v and 16v have extra support braces from the block to the bellhousung. The early 1.6 8v and 1.3 doesn't have the braces.
The tank, you can make the 4 door tank fit in a 2 door. All you have to do is remount it. You don't have to change any fuel lines on the frame. The 2 door tank is 12.5 gallons and the 4 door is 14.5 gallons. I think it would be a double benefit, the right pump and just a little bigger tank.
Just a thought, from someone that has played with the peices to do that very theory.

i might just put the whole trans and tcase in too.  my trans is starting to get metal in the bottom of it and the same with the t-case.  so it might be the whole thing with a new cluch.  

Is their any diffence with the fuel pump itself?  or can i just leave my old one in their.

stu

 I beleive the pump sending unit is the same, just test fit it and go from there.

do i switch just the pump or the whole tank?  i have my tank mounted in the back where the back seat was.

stu

Awww Yea...  



On of my Buddy's Sammys & it's FOR SALE!!!  $3500 OBO  New 35" Boggers on Yotas geared and locked...

GONNA GIVE UP THAT LOW END TOURQUE OF YOUR 8 VALVE FOR SOME MORE PONIES AYE STU  .......& I THOUGHT YOU DISLIKED THE WHOLE RPM THING IN THE 16 V ....  MATTY D.  

low end...u mean u spend time away from redline in a tracker? lol i thought the needle never moveid from redline =)

 Funny thing about the 16v. The horsepower and torque are lower in the rpm range than in the 8v motor. More power where you need to use it. Not like a Honda 16v where the power is way up there.

8v:
Horsepower (SAE net): 80 hp |removethispart|@ 5400 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 94 lb.-ft. |removethispart|@ 3300 rpm

16v:
Horsepower (SAE net): 95 hp |removethispart|@ 5600 rpm
Torque (SAE net): 98 lb.-ft. |removethispart|@ 4000 rpm