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I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..

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Offline ebewley

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #15 on: June 09, 2004, 11:44:53 AM »
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Hey all... I'm in the middle of an article for a budget 4 Door lift on my site... check it out and tell me what you think so far!

http://www.whitepineclub.com/offroad/tech/budgetbodylift/index.htm

Thanks guys..

Heather

EDIT: I think I am done! Check it out!


Heather,

That's a nice article....

-Eric
Eric L. Bewley                               
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Offline TN_Tracker

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #16 on: June 09, 2004, 11:57:21 AM »
Great job Heather

I'm a Proud Member of Team BlueRibbon Coalition & Tread Lightly, are you?

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Offline jerryp58

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #17 on: June 09, 2004, 01:15:08 PM »
Very nice write up.  Thanks.

BTW, concerning the problem...  "Another thing to worry about, if you have an 8 valve, your air hose to your air box may not stretch as far as it needs to." ...  maybe a 2" Throttle Body Spacer would help close the gap  :)

Jerry
1990 Geo Tracker,  2-Door Hard Top
1.6L 8v, 4x4 Automatic, 0" lift

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Offline Fredo

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #18 on: June 09, 2004, 01:26:07 PM »
An 8 valves in a 4 doors with stock gears and 31"!!!

Hum probably the sludgest track/kick on road.

And what happen with shifters in your article?

Fredo
Proud member of the C.A.B.L (coalition against body-lifting) 2002 GV

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jookycola

Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2004, 03:00:00 PM »
dumb question....but

with coil spacers is it still posible to properly do an alignment, and will coil spacer lifts hurt the track/kick?

i want to this...not so much to save money but i like the decent stock ride of factory suspension.  it's not a cadilac, but NOT a Samurai.  So to me the coil spacer lift seems the best way to lift the truck and maintain acceptable ride comfort.

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Offline 1bigtracker

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #20 on: June 09, 2004, 03:35:22 PM »
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An 8 valves in a 4 doors with stock gears and 31"!!!

Hum probably the sludgest track/kick on road
Fredo

HA! try 34's with 5.12's in a stick.  works great in the mud, all the wheel speed you can handle.

stu
   

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Offline explosivo

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #21 on: June 09, 2004, 03:40:38 PM »
The entire site still isn't working for me... multiple browsers and a few restarts, too ???
omghi2.us[/url]
"Its a ZUKI thing. Doing more with less than less with more." -- HotRod

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Offline ArkansasTracker

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #22 on: June 09, 2004, 04:20:01 PM »
Dumb question:
Will the strut mount flip work if the struts have been "slotted" for the recent alignment?
J
'96 Soft Top Geo Tracker, auto (leaking), coil spacers, 30X9.5 Mud Rovers

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Offline Zukipilot

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #23 on: June 09, 2004, 11:09:12 PM »
Heather, Great Article 8) The only thing I noticed that you may want to add, is a comment about going and getting it alligned after the install is complete.

Great Job ;)
Zig
Zukipilot
'92 Liberty Overland Sidekick

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Offline Zukipilot

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #24 on: June 09, 2004, 11:11:15 PM »
I definately want to get a close up comparison on the differences of the 2 door snd 4 door steering. That's cool that you did not have to extend the steering shaft to do a 3" body lift.
Zig
Zukipilot
'92 Liberty Overland Sidekick

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Offline Speedracer7c

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #25 on: June 10, 2004, 12:13:30 AM »
NOt working for me still....didnt' work last night either.
93 sammy 5 inch calmini lift 31" ltbs locked rear

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TITAN

Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #26 on: June 10, 2004, 12:53:16 AM »
do u think u could do that same thing but with a 3x4 block of metal for an extra inch and run 32's?

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Offline jagular7

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #27 on: June 10, 2004, 03:06:35 AM »
Heather, it appears to be a rightful way of getting the info out to people. Thanks.
Question: why is it necessary to relocate the stock rubber spring pad (also known as an isolator) below the spacer?
My Jeep spacer for the rear has a wider diameter than the bracket. So I left the spring pad in stock location.

Couple of things:
- state something along the fact that you are not implying any responsibility for any action that any owner takes using this information. (Had a friend do something similar years ago, it's still in litigation and it cost's him money to defend himself everytime.)

- Define what a bump stop is, it's function, and add that the bump stops have to be address for the tire being used. Suggestion, rear is pretty simple. Could leave the stock upper bump stop alone or replace it like the front. Drill a 3/8" center hole in the bottom spring plate (axle), then add the bump stop extension for a XJ/TJ. (I think you can get in different heights; it's a disc which can be bolted in.)

- for the front bump stop, you can't drill into the spring plate on the stock control arm. You'll have to extend it from the top. The Daystar Jeep spacer kit will come with one that is longer. Problem is that the bolt is not the correct one. Suggest to drill out the stock hole and re-tap the new hole, or add a smaller bolt. Potential problem with smaller bolt, is it strong enough to handle hard landings?
Lenexa, KS

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Offline hcgalvin

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #28 on: June 10, 2004, 03:39:13 AM »
Thanks guys for the responses, this really helps me out.

I did notice that I forgot to mention the shifter extensions, ... whoops, so that will definately have to be added.  :-[
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An 8 valves in a 4 doors with stock gears and 31"!!!

Hum probably the sludgest track/kick on road.

And what happen with shifters in your article?

Fredo


Not if it has an auto with 5.12's ....  ;D

Quote
dumb question....but

with coil spacers is it still posible to properly do an alignment, and will coil spacer lifts hurt the track/kick?

i want to this...not so much to save money but i like the decent stock ride of factory suspension.  it's not a cadilac, but NOT a Samurai.  So to me the coil spacer lift seems the best way to lift the truck and maintain acceptable ride comfort.


Putting in the coil spacers did change the camber somewhat, this can be adjusted by using your strut adjuster bolt, or taking it to get an alignment (so yes, I will have to put that in the article too). However, on this truck, once everything was back together and we took it for a test drive, the springs and camber settled almost all the way into place on it's own.

Quote
Heather, it appears to be a rightful way of getting the info out to people. Thanks.
Question: why is it necessary to relocate the stock rubber spring pad (also known as an isolator) below the spacer?  
My Jeep spacer for the rear has a wider diameter than the bracket. So I left the spring pad in stock location.  

Couple of things:
- state something along the fact that you are not implying any responsibility for any action that any owner takes using this information. (Had a friend do something similar years ago, it's still in litigation and it cost's him money to defend himself everytime.)

- Define what a bump stop is, it's function, and add that the bump stops have to be address for the tire being used. Suggestion, rear is pretty simple. Could leave the stock upper bump stop alone or replace it like the front. Drill a 3/8" center hole in the bottom spring plate (axle), then add the bump stop extension for a XJ/TJ. (I think you can get in different heights; it's a disc which can be bolted in.)

- for the front bump stop, you can't drill into the spring plate on the stock control arm. You'll have to extend it from the top. The Daystar Jeep spacer kit will come with one that is longer. Problem is that the bolt is not the correct one. Suggest to drill out the stock hole and re-tap the new hole, or add a smaller bolt. Potential problem with smaller bolt, is it strong enough to handle hard landings?


The reason that I put the rubber pad AFTER the coil spacer is because springs and spacers tend to squeak. The rubber pad tends to quiet this some (I have seen).

Thanks for the info on the other things, but with a 3" body lift, coil spacers, and 31's I have yet to see the bumpstop/tire size combination create too much of a problem. The tires seem to keep themselves far enough away from the fenderwells.

Yes, I will have to put some disclaimer on the site too. I should be able to get this stuff up by the end of today sometime.

Again, thanks, all.

Heather
Heather Galvin
2005 GV with Zuki Nation 4.5" Lift.
Sidekick's gone... Still have Bob's Knob.

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Offline hcgalvin

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Re: I wrote a budget 4 door lift article..
« Reply #29 on: June 10, 2004, 07:11:18 AM »
any better?

I changed a few small things.

Heather Galvin
2005 GV with Zuki Nation 4.5" Lift.
Sidekick's gone... Still have Bob's Knob.