Hi everyone, it's been a couple of years since I've posted here. I still have the sidekick a1996 4x4 2 door) and still love it. Unfortunately I took it swimming a few too many times and trashed the front wheel bearings on the driver side. I managed to finally get the hub off but the old inner bearing came to pieces in the process. Anyway, I've never seen anyting like this setup. Am I correct that it is basically a common inner and outer race with two standard roller bearings inside it? I looked at Ack's FAQ and found the following link there: http://www.shropshire-suzuki.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=13294 unfortunately it doesn't ever show the bearing itself. So with all that said assuming that it is a common race as it appears I can't figure how to get it out! I removed the snap ring on the back side but there is no where to set a punch againt this thing to knock it out. When I serched on this topic I saw several people advising to just replace the hub with a used one and I have no problem with that other than where to get it. I saw some time back that Hawk was out of businees (I hated to see that as I had always had really good service from them). With Hawk gone does anyone know a good Suzuki specific wrecker that:
a) can be trusted to send me a good one
b) ships all over the lower 48?

Thanks in advance
gravity storm

Should be able to get one from Trail Tough in Oregon. They bought Hawk's inventory.

Should be able to get one from Trail Tough in Oregon. They bought Hawk's inventory.

Thanks for the heads up about Trail Tough. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

gravity_storm

Both of the inside races face each other and are pressed onto the hub.  You should be able to tap them out with a steel rod and a hammer by placing the hub assembly on a solid surface like a vice so that the race can drop out the bottom cleanly.

Since corrosion is involved, lots of penetrant (WD-40 or similar) is necessary.

If there is NO WAY that the race will pop out, it's time to head over to the pick-and-pull for a hub assembly.  Take the bearings that you bought for your original rusty hub and install them in the "new" hub!

Note that anything up to '96 (my opinion - maybe newer ones will also swap) on a Tracker or Sidekick will fit.  remember to get the correct side!


I hope that this helps!

If you know someone who has a press it makes getting that race out MUCH easier. 

Well, I was sick as a dog last weekend but I did manage to crawl out to the shop long enough to get the race out.  I beat a 1-3/4 inch 3/4 drive socket to death in the process but it is finally out. I'm on pager duty this weekend so I can't leave the house but hopefully next weekend I can get it back together. I'm also doing the 4-door brake conversion while it is apart. It will be good to have it going again, it has been down for about 3 months and I miss it!

You will love the 4dr brakes, huge difference!

Two more questions here...
1) I'm used to wheel bearings in 2 wheel drive American made cars/trucks of the 60's to 80s. Two seperate bearings with two seperate races. I've bought the new "bearing" and not sure what to do with it. Do I still pull the bearings out of this monstrosity of a race and install the race and then put the bearings back in or is it made to go in as a unit?

2) Everything I look at is saying to torque the heck out of the bearing retainer nut (depending on where I look from 90 to 155 ft-lbs). The things I am used to we would preload to about 90 ft-lbs, then back the nut off and tighten it back finger tight before putting the pin in to hold it. Based on past experience I can't imagine the hub still turning with that much preload on the bearings. Is what I'm reading correct? How does that even work?   Also I didn't buy the outrageously priced tool to take the retaining nut off with. I haven't figured out how I can even pre load it that kind of torque without one.

The new inner race should be pressed in first, minus bearings.  Beating it with a hammer is a sure way to deform it, and it needs to fit TIGHTLY in the hub. Pressing it in is the best way. You could always freeze the race and heat the hub if you don't have access to a press. You'll have to replace the rear seals of course, but that's expected.
Yes, these are a different setup than the twist and cotter pin kind. Torquing them properly (go to the high side, 150 lbs) is the key to their longevity and even though it seems to go against all we know about bearing set up, it is the correct way to do these. If you don't have a tool to fit the locking ring, maybe you can make one ( a couple of guys here did ) or borrow one. Use waterproof grease and pack em good.

The new inner race should be pressed in first, minus bearings.  Beating it with a hammer is a sure way to deform it, and it needs to fit TIGHTLY in the hub. Pressing it in is the best way. You could always freeze the race and heat the hub if you don't have access to a press. You'll have to replace the rear seals of course, but that's expected.
Yes, these are a different setup than the twist and cotter pin kind. Torquing them properly (go to the high side, 150 lbs) is the key to their longevity and even though it seems to go against all we know about bearing set up, it is the correct way to do these. If you don't have a tool to fit the locking ring, maybe you can make one ( a couple of guys here did ) or borrow one. Use waterproof grease and pack em good.

Bentparts,

Thanks for the response, all pretty much what I thought but I just needed that reassurance! Unfortunately I will be doing this without a press. I will be using the hot & cold method; I've had good luck with that in the past. I will be building a tool for torquing the nut.

Thanks again to all who have helped out!

-Richard (AKA gravity storm)

Your welcome !

Bentparts is right on with his suggestions. If you don't torque them tight enough, you wont get many miles out of them before you're doing it again. Ask me how I know! LOL! I bought a hub nut socket from the auto parts store that was for a Ford 4x4 Ranger I think and I used a dremel to round off the teeth enough to fit into the lock ring of the Tracker's hub. It basically looked like a big steel cup with 2 "teeth" on the edge and a 1/2" square hole for the wrench on the other end. I just had to make the teeth small enough to fit the round holes.

Bentparts is right on with his suggestions. If you don't torque them tight enough, you wont get many miles out of them before you're doing it again. Ask me how I know! LOL! I bought a hub nut socket from the auto parts store that was for a Ford 4x4 Ranger I think and I used a dremel to round off the teeth enough to fit into the lock ring of the Tracker's hub. It basically looked like a big steel cup with 2 "teeth" on the edge and a 1/2" square hole for the wrench on the other end. I just had to make the teeth small enough to fit the round holes.

Hi Digger, any idea what year the f**d socket was for and the cost? I've found a couple of online sources for the correct one (J-37763) but they are all upwards of 80 bucks! I know the more common the cheaper so I'm hoping the one like you have would be a bit easier on the debit card.

Thanks!
-Richard  (AKA gravity storm)

Less than $50, best deal I have found.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/180734636459?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Bentparts is right on with his suggestions. If you don't torque them tight enough, you wont get many miles out of them before you're doing it again. Ask me how I know! LOL! I bought a hub nut socket from the auto parts store that was for a Ford 4x4 Ranger I think and I used a dremel to round off the teeth enough to fit into the lock ring of the Tracker's hub. It basically looked like a big steel cup with 2 "teeth" on the edge and a 1/2" square hole for the wrench on the other end. I just had to make the teeth small enough to fit the round holes.

Your not alone Digger, how do you think I learned ?    Once I got a good set of NEW bearings, used a bearing packer with waterproof grease, installed new seals and torqued everything properly I never experienced any issues again. I see a lot of water out here too, and mine are going on 30K. I do repack them and replace the seals once a year though. Worth buying the tool to do regular maintenance.
I purchased on Ebay a complete GM dealer special tools set with that tool and dozens of others specifically for Trackicks for $90, in the factory box, hardly used at all. It has been immensely handy and worth a bunch more. They are still out there.