Where do i find build buy or steal to get these?This is required for the axle swap (91 4dr)am i correct?Im doing the swap with the DANA 30&35the 30 is out of a 85 scrambler iwill be runnin 4.10's ,ya know i haven't thought about steering yet but hell 2 axles and a set of rims and im in to it for $50 bones not bad so hey any extra info on the SAS or insight let me know thanx

No SYE available yet.
Gotta make your own or do a OTT Kicker 3
Or even a RingerR from Rock4X Fab   http://www.rock4xfabrication.com/ringr.htm
(using a Toyota 5spd and T-case with you Zuki motor)

ive ben working on this also, hopefull i will have something done buy next weekend ,ill let everyone know how it goes ,and if it goes . :-/

Thanx im trying to keep the tcase and auto in the kick though?

No SYE available yet.
Gotta make your own or do a OTT Kicker 3
Or even a RingerR from Rock4X Fab   http://www.rock4xfabrication.com/ringr.htm
(using a Toyota 5spd and T-case with you Zuki motor)

I hope your planning on changing the gear ratio? 4.10's won't work too good!

 explain why not?32'tires should be fine right?

Do you have 4.62 or 5.13 in there right now?

If you have 4.62, why not run 4.56 in the Dana 30 and leave your stock rear alone?

Making a slip yoke eliminator is really easy.  Just drill a hole in the middle of your shafts of the tcase.  You'll need to split it apart.  Get some flanges.  Then run a bolt through the middle connecting the flange to the shaft.  Done.
Brian

Making a slip yoke eliminator is really easy.  Just drill a hole in the middle of your shafts of the tcase.  You'll need to split it apart.  Get some flanges.  Then run a bolt through the middle connecting the flange to the shaft.  Done.
Brian

its a little more complicated than that , the track kick 3rd flange does match the splines on the tcase shaft ,but their is not enough yolk on the flange to reach the bearing race in the case and the flange also runs into the ceal of the case , what im doing is parting off the yoke on the driveshaft at 3'' then boaring the flange so that is a slip fit over the yoke then welding the flange to the yoke ,boaring the yoke out on the flange side 1.175"x.675",then making a slug 1.175"- x.5" and welding the slug in the center of the yoke ,this keeps the flange off the ceal and reaches the bearings. drilling a hole in the center of the slug , im going with a 1/2 20 bolt , if anyone has done this differentley or easyer let me know ,this is what i came up with

its a little more complicated than that , the track kick 3rd flange does match the splines on the tcase shaft ,but their is not enough yolk on the flange to reach the bearing race in the case and the flange also runs into the ceal of the case , what im doing is parting off the yoke on the driveshaft at 3'' then boaring the flange so that is a slip fit over the yoke then welding the flange to the yoke ,boaring the yoke out on the flange side 1.175"x.675",then making a slug 1.175"- x.5" and welding the slug in the center of the yoke ,this keeps the flange off the ceal and reaches the bearings. drilling a hole in the center of the slug , im going with a 1/2 20 bolt , if anyone has done this differentley or easyer let me know ,this is what i came up with

This is exactly how saw it needing to be done when I was researching it.
Great job, tell us how it goes!

~Nate

Go with a smaller bolt, 1/2"
is going to cut into the output
shaft size greatly, all you need
is an 8mm (1/4") bolt to hold the
SYE onto the end of the shaft

Wild

Go with a smaller bolt, 1/2"
is going to cut into the output
shaft size greatly, all you need
is an 8mm (1/4") bolt to hold the
SYE onto the end of the shaft

Wild

the output shaft is just over 1" wich is plenty of material for a 1/2" bolt and a 1/2" bolt only requires 1/2" of thread so i will only have to drill a 29/64" hole 3/4" deep in order to thread it 1/2" deep
my consern with going smaller is the force of driveshaft pulling on the flange over time may break a small bolt.,im shur everyony has trisd to pull a greesed slipshaft apart befor and the suction makes it difficult at times,imagine trying to do it really fast.

im shur everyony has trisd to pull a greesed slipshaft apart befor and the suction makes it difficult at times,imagine trying to do it really fast.

what about drilling a small hole to let air travel into the driveshaft to releave suction?

stu

what about drilling a small hole to let air travel into the driveshaft to releave suction?

stu

thougt about that too, but the male end of the slipshaft is usually on the driveshaft. would have to be a long drillbit

Go with a smaller bolt, 1/2"
is going to cut into the output
shaft size greatly, all you need
is an 8mm (1/4") bolt to hold the
SYE onto the end of the shaft

Wild

I'd bet that this would work better too, as a quarter inch grade 8 bolt has tensile strength of over a ton.  I doubt that the suction of a traditional slip shaft is greater than that.  Even the most stubborn of slip shafts that I've seen have been able to be pulled apart by hand.

~Nate