Found out last week that I had a cracked front housing on the -7. I wheeled with it the weekend before and knew that I didn't do anything that would have caused a problem. I'm amazed that I had one, though, yes, I did drag the -7 over a stump, but that drag was on the front crossmember and the trans crossmember. The trans for sure due to the bending of it. Now this crack, I think and you could provide your comments, came from the torque arm generated by the mounting points of the housing. The crack starts at the very top of the housing where the first structure rib support is for the long side. The oil pan didn't hit it. I think the mounting points of the diff and the housing provide a torque arm where the housing is ripping apart. The crack comes forward along the points where the other structure rib supports are, then comes down the curvature edge of the housing. All these points are the weak points in a bending moment. Take both ends of the housing and bend them down like ripping open an orange. To add, I was going to drain the diff to clean out the debri as I was in mud and water that weekend. I took a little drive with the hubs lock to get the fluid to be a little more warm (it was 45 high today). The crack was even longer than before (now down to the lowest structure rib support). This only tells me that there is a bending moment and that the aluminum housing can not withstand (was not in 4wd so no input from the ds only the axles).
So with a little cleaning as the best I could with brake clean, an old sock and toothbrush, I took a few pics before adding some JBWeld. I know it's not a fix, but it's better than letting it come apart. I'm looking/working in a replacement. To add, it's a real tight configuration in there. Take a look and what you think. Joejoe could you use these pics?


What it looked like when found.


Cleaned up and notice it's down to the lowest rib support.

I am sorry to see these terrible pictures. I will use these pictures for all GV drivers in Taiwan. Thanks again and you could link:  http://clie.ws/bbs/index.php?showtopic=35999&st=180&#entry944106  if you want to see!

Thanks for the link. Though I can't read Chinese (assuming the language), I can see the pics.

I'm looking to use the Calmini Anvil per the Zukiworld article on Zukipilot's front end. I know it won't be a bolt-in due to the different configuration of the frame mounts. But it looks like I could have a locker? Need to talk details to Zukipilot, then the add the TORA cvs.

If I was to replace this with another stock aluminum part (and I may still do), I'd add a steel bracket (plate) which would run the length of the housing. It would secure to half the side of the diff housing bolts, run along the axle housing to the driver's side, then attach to the frame's crossmember (mirroring the pinion mount), and to the stock upper mount to keep the bending moment in the different plane minimal. This will act as a small bucket for the housing and keep the housing from any bending moments within itself.
It's obvious that the aluminum material does not have enough torsional strength, nor is it thick enough in the necessary areas.
The passenger side, being short distance from the torque arm (pinion), is basically designed to handle the moment on that side. There appears to be enough material to absorb the moment. But you never know till the driver's side is handled.

shame to see this:( If you remember, 4wd and off road magazine did same thing on their 02 XL7 test truck too..

Frank

shame to see this:( If you remember, 4wd and off road magazine did same thing on their 02 XL7 test truck too..

Frank

Here is the link and picture:  http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/roadtests/58458/index10.html

This is why some GV drivers want to ask their rights for cast-iron front diff. in Taiwan. Do you have this same activity(ask for changing iron front diff.) in US?

Have you figured out yet what might be involved doing the Anvil swap? I am planning on ordering the steel housing. The third is expensive though. Especially setup. I guess if I could figure out how to do the gear setup myself that would be cheaper. Anywho, the Anvil. Any info from Calmini?

Talked to Marlin at Calmini. Stated that I'm the only XL7 owner inquiring about the Anvil setup. Stated it would take too much time for them to reconfigure it to mount into the XL7 (Vitara). Told him there are other owners throughout the world with Vitaras, GVs, and XL7 wanting to upgrade to something better than aluminum or cast steel stock housing. Stated there are more prominent items that need their attention and the cost to profit ratio is just not there for the XL7 owners.

Biggest thing I can see is the space. It was really tight with the oil pan just to get my fingers up there on the crack. I've asked Zukipilot for some dimensions relating to the size of the diff housing, length of the shaft portion, etc. from the centerline aspect.
Redoing the mounts to fit the Vitara (3rd generation)should be easy enough with a small welder. If you read over Zukipilot's article, Brian uses a Anvil, XL7 steel diff housing (3rd member), a mod'd Sami carrier, 5.83 gears, 26 spline shafts, and a EZ Locker. Since the Anvil mounts directly into his frame mounts, that was easy, and supposedly, the Anvil has the 'drop' mounts already configured in. The XL7 diff housing required a new crossmember mount, however, since his crossmember has been bashed, bent, etc. so much, that wasn't too difficult for him to do. (My crossmember is a closed crossmember. I would guess the earlier Trackick models aren't.)

The built-in 'drop' is only a rotation on the mounts. The frame mounts are longer than stock, but the front diff mount is left alone. So basically, the 'drop' is only a rotation placing the diff mount at the pinion into a bind in the bushing.

In talking to Hawk, Rick uses a cast steel axle housing and a cast steel diff housing (3rd member) for a GV in his Sidekick. He runs the ARB locker (RD88) on Trackick 5.13 gears and stock cv shafts on 35's!!! and never has a problem. His Sidekick is a mid 90's something, white hardtop with a splash of green on the side.

I'm favroing the stock cast steel axle housing with my stock diff housing. But the options of what Zukipilot did leaves the door open for some gearing and locker up front. For the rear, sounds like a GV whole rear axle will work as there is an ARB for that.

Ya, the Anvil would be nice but the last time I talked to Steve they had no plans to make them for the GV's or XL-7's    I was thinking about trying to find someone that would be willing to mod. one to fit will have see how that goes tho.  Then you could run with TORA cv's from S.O.S when they come out.
George

I wonder though if the standard GV rear axle would hold up to the added horsepwer and torque. Plus then the gearing issue with a GV rear and standard front gears. I wonder if it just wouldn't be better to get a 44 and mount everything on it. The Isuzu Troopers used the 44 and I believe the track is very comparable to ours.

My thoughs on the rear were to go the GV rout and up grade some with a sidekick 3dr (to get 5.8's   ) and hardened axles.  I would think that it would hold up ok but it still wouldn't be bullet proof  :-/
Now a dana 44 with an ARB upgrade to dana 50 would rock but your talking some $$$$
George

Okayl, Heres my thought on what I rememebered on what I read.
I have a 95 tracker with a 99 GV  front steel axle and 3rd member.
Ansd theres the answer.
I'm using the whole thing.
steel axle and 3rd member
NO Problem now
Plus I'm using trhe Sammie 4-pin center section.
And still no problem
happy as a clam,
what ever that means but I'm very happy with the set up.

I broke my axel housing also go with a Steel housing form Hawk Suzuki, John will hook you up with somthing a lot better. Sorry to hear that you busted you car. When I broke mine I was quite upset with suzuki.