I posted some of this once already, but I got another idea.

Syptoms:
Engine runs rich. Black smoke when revving engine, "loads up" and runs very rough at idle, revvs s-l-o-w-l-y.

Anyone ever had the cam shaft a tooth off? I double checked the cam timing before buttoning everything up. It was dead on. Been thinking about removing all the stuff and checking it again.

Adding to that, I noticed that the ticking that I thought was a misadjusted valve, seems to be the fuel injector. It is pretty noisy. I don't recall it being that loud, either. Possiblity it is shot?

I would think it's going to be something more basic....

- Check distributor timing and ignition system
- Check vacuum lines and MAP sensor
- Manifold vacuum leak?
- O2 sensor...code?

I would think it's likely on the accessory side (tune up kinda stuff) that you've got the problem.

The clicking is likely the injector, a number of folks have reported that they can be very noisy.

Zag

ditto to what zaggy said - and i'll add

- coolant temp sensor
-fuel pressure reg(controled by vacuum)

derek

I've been all through the ignition system. The timing is on, the wires are good, the spark plugs good, the distributor cap and rotor were new right before I rebuilt the engine.

I haven't really considered a vaccum leak for the main reason being that most vaccum leaks tend to cause a lean condition. My primary problem is rich mix.. mainly off idle. I did the trick of plugging the idle air bypass due to the typical high idle start and fluctuating idle till warm. Again, this was done shortly before I rebuilt the engine.

I have no check engine light. The O2 sensor is new.
There are two coolant temp sensors, right? The temp guage never worked on the Tracker. The wire was broken off of it at the sensor. It never affected the way the engine ran.

I just also checked the vaccum with a vaccum guage on the little port about midway down the intake. Showed 11" of vaccum. Don't know if that Calmini cam is contributing to that or not, though.

I have no check engine light. The O2 sensor is new.

Do you mean like "brand new"?

Because I would definitely be suspecting that.

Quote from: b1pig on October 14, 2005, 11:43:11 AM

I have no check engine light. The O2 sensor is new.

Do you mean like "brand new"?

Because I would definitely be suspecting that.

ditto.  I had one brand new one go bad years ago right off the bat.

karl,
I ran accross a page somewhere that had picutes of what to do along with instructions.

There is a fast idle air bypass. It causes a "controled vaccum leak" when cold to run the engine speed up. There is a wax pellet in this vavle similar to that in your thermostat. It does fail, and causes a high cold idle anywhere from 2500-3000 RPM, then can also cause the idle to fluctuate or bounce between 1000-2500 RPM as the engine reaches operating temp, then go normal.

There is a small cover on the front passenger side of the throttle body that is held on with 3 screws. If you remove them, there is a round hollow threaded assembly. You need a peice of rubber vaccum of fuel line that fits snuggly inside that. I can't remember where I got th line, but I just snipped a small peice right off the engine where I had some excess length and it fit perfectly. Also, a small bolt that fits snuggly inside the line and will fit inside the cover. I did this, and replaced the cover. The einge ALWAYS idled around 1,000+ RPM and was unredictable. Once I did this fired the Tracker up, it shot straight to 700RPM and held steady. I have since adjusted my idle speed to read 1,000 RPM when warm. It tends to idle around 750-800 when cold. Not too bad.

Here is one like to some instuctions on the fix:
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,22023.0.html

If your engine vacuum is that low I would be suspecting...

- Vacuum leak, on injected engines it can give false signal leading to rich conditions
- MAP sensor
- PCV
- Valve clearances
- Ignition timing
- Fuel pressure regulator

Wish i could see it, but these are best guesses.

Zag

thanks, guys.

i really gotta quit taking on projects.... 

Did you set up the cam timing with a dial gauge? It is not unusual for aftermarket cams to be ground a little off. If it is running very rich then maybe there is a problem with the fuel pressure sensor or the return pipe.

No, I didn't index the camshaft.... I don't have a degree wheel.

The more I thinkabout it, the more that it does seem to be a possible vaccum problem. Before I rebuilt the engine, there was very little vaccum. The brakes would loose boost if youpumped the pedal more than twice, and it could take a few minutes to build back up. The Transmission also did not like to shift into 2nd when cold. The engine would have to be up to operating temp before it would go into 2nd gear. After I rebuilt the engine and put it all back together, the cold-shift issue was gone... but within 50 miles, it returned. 

I don't get it.

I went out and pulled the vaccum line off the MAP sensor, and the idle dropped and the engine ran SUPER rough. Plugged it back in and ran good. I'll try starting it up cold tomorrow and see what it does.

could be a pluged exhaust, something might of crawled up the pipe an died while ya had it appart, lol stranger things have happend.

Nah. Not possible. I had to cut the cat off when I put the Calmin header on it. 

If anything... it is flowing TOO freely.

I would double check your timing belt marks. My 1.3 sami engine drove fine but no power after a rebuild. I didnt do it, I bought it that way. I assumed it was cause 1.3s just didnt have any power. Turns out after many many miles I had been driving one tooth off. I moved it over a cog and it worked fine. Still wasnt a race car but definatle had more power.

Mike