I also have a 1 inch spacer. One other thing to keep in mind is the tie rods need to be flipped to the top to retain steering geometry. You will need to taper the holes.

Mike

So you have essentially 3 inches of strut spacing + the flipped mount?

Already know about the tie-rods... I think I read about it from one of the discussions you posted in, actually That's why I only want to do a 1-2" diff/a-arm drop.

I struggled alot with the firm ride that the calmini kit had when it was new. I went from a center spaced 15x8 32" tire to a 33x12.5 tire on a 15x10 wheel with a little heavier back spacing. I don't remember what it was and the springs still felt stiff.  
Through a little experimenting we noticed that the alignment had alot to do with the vehicle ride.  If the tires where toed in at all it caused the front end to pinch and be firm. slightly toed out and the ride was softer. Of course this is a fine line because you don't want the tires to scrub all the tread off. I guess the point is to check your alignment. Overall I just flexed the crap out of those springs to the point that they actually lost a bit of lift. I added a calmini bumper and a 9000lb winch to help things out a bit. Calmini builds the 3 inch suspension kit with the intention that you will be running all the accessories, winch, bumper, skids, etc etc. basically the more you flex it and  the more weight you add the softer it will feel.  I used to park my zuk with one tire up on something to flex the springs as much as possible.  
Patience is key here it will soften up and perform.  I didn't really understand the term flex the crap out of it until I saw hagan and chunk flying past my passenger side window about 3 feet in the air on the poison spider mesa trail in MOAB. After that I had a new understanding!

Screw adding weight to the front... first off: I'm cheap, and can't afford all those high-falutin' accessories, and second, I'd rather do things super-lightweight. This is where some custom front suspension work comes into play. Plus, adding weight will make it ride smoother, but I want more FLEX (even though I don't need it under the terrain I normally drive )

Lookslike Hagen isn't giving up his flying secrets!  Shame on you Mike!  

Lookslike Hagen isn't giving up his flying secrets!  Shame on you Mike!  

I know, it's making me angry!



Hey, have you gotten anything worked out with your rig yet?

Holy Poop Look who showed back up Where you been
Zig

Still around.  SPent a week in FL for 'cane Frances, then worried sick about that bitch Jeanne as she slammed mom and dad..........again!  Not much of a vacation but they are doing ok, hooking into neighbor generator for some low key A/C.

Rig is still going.  Not much progress in working with Zuke in getting a resolution.  DM does not return calls, Brea does not respond to correspondence.  Meanwhile, I'm trying to find time to drain and flush the cooling sys.  Just too damn busy to find time.  I now run 93 octane to keep the hamster quiet.  Expensive, but so is a motor.  In the process of sending zuke a 4th letter about my problem.  I think they're just hoping I go away or something.  Oh well.  

This December, dad is going to teach me to make sausage gravy with milk.  Next year, I hope to make it to the melt!  I need to get some "air time" and get frequent flyer miles on Hagen Air.  That's the ONLY condition for me to be there......he's gotta be there too!

ZIg you can come to IF you can scare up half a hickory smoked ham, Tennessee style.  Not a needled fake smoke but a real smoker.  I will trade suds for ham.  Deal?

Ham for suds :-/ Hell Yea it's a deal
Zig

Does anyone have access to a inner cv from a Liberty, I was under one the other day and they appear to have a very long inner cv bucket and beefy axles. Might be a possible donor if someone could find out how deep the bucket is inside.

Lookslike Hagen isn't giving up his flying secrets!  Shame on you Mike!  

Secret?

ITS ALL ABOUT THE SHINNY PEDAL And not letting up till the rear tires are off the ground. Another tip, only jump in 2wd, you get better front lift.

Mike

Screw adding weight to the front... first off: I'm cheap, and can't afford all those high-falutin' accessories, and second, I'd rather do things super-lightweight. This is where some custom front suspension work comes into play. Plus, adding weight will make it ride smoother, but I want more FLEX (even though I don't need it under the terrain I normally drive )

I agree, dont add weight just to ride smoother. If the rig is topped out cut a little off the coil to lower it. if it sits to low add a small spacer to lift it. Another thing I think is a worth wile addition is limmiting straps to the front. My straps get tight about 1 inch before the end of the struts travel. it will strech too full travel. What this does is slow the downward travel so it doesnt bottom out so hard and smooths out the ride. I cant hardly feel when the front tires come off the ground. Also I pushed a pinion bushing over the strut so when the strut colapses the rubber bushing slows it down and softens the blow. You loose a little flex but now you can pound it so much harder and it takes it without knocking out your teeth.

Mike

Mike

I agree, dont add weight just to ride smoother. If the rig is topped out cut a little off the coil to lower it. if it sits to low add a small spacer to lift it. Another thing I think is a worth wile addition is limmiting straps to the front. My straps get tight about 1 inch before the end of the struts travel. it will strech too full travel. What this does is slow the downward travel so it doesnt bottom out so hard and smooths out the ride. I cant hardly feel when the front tires come off the ground. Also I pushed a pinion bushing over the strut so when the strut colapses the rubber bushing slows it down and softens the blow. You loose a little flex but now you can pound it so much harder and it takes it without knocking out your teeth.

Mike

Mike

Where'd you get your straps from? I'll have to try some of that stuff out once I get it widened and all the structural things figured out first... the bone-jarring ride is one of my dislikes about my 'kick right now :-/

Very interestig post  

 Explosive I like the pic #2,  Looks alot like my 4-door lift.  Strut spacers and drop the crossmembers and axle.

[/quote]

Instead of just flipping the tie rods I believe you can also run the Cal-Mini dropped pitman arm and drop the Reinforced idler to match, thus gaining about 4".  BUT I still need to measure the Cal-Mini Kick dropped Pit man Arm to be sure.

I agree with Mike EVEN flex is the Key over more flex.  I'm hopping that the bumper and winch will help to make my front move a little more, I'm also looking into firmer Jeep +2" spings for the rear in an effort to make the flex even.  

I have not looked into building a stronger front end yet, So for now I have designed around the CV angles and am working to avoid operation at full droop where they become vonerable.  I'm looking into limit straps as a Temporary band aid to help if weak CV's become a problem.  

I believe they way to more travel is thru the centered diff and Longer A-arms.  Any other arm configuration off of the stock mounts is still bound by the CV legnth/angle/steering.  Longer arms and a centered diff are the easiest way to free up the numbers in teh travel equation.  The the BAJA race trucks are a good example of this.

Lots of gears spinning in my head,  Hope to add more later.

Very interestig post  

 Explosive I like the pic #2,  Looks alot like my 4-door lift.  Strut spacers and drop the crossmembers and axle.

Instead of just flipping the tie rods I believe you can also run the Cal-Mini dropped pitman arm and drop the Reinforced idler to match, thus gaining about 4".  BUT I still need to measure the Cal-Mini Kick dropped Pit man Arm to be sure.

I agree with Mike EVEN flex is the Key over more flex.  I'm hopping that the bumper and winch will help to make my front move a little more, I'm also looking into firmer Jeep +2" spings for the rear in an effort to make the flex even.  

I have not looked into building a stronger front end yet, So for now I have designed around the CV angles and am working to avoid operation at full droop where they become vonerable.  I'm looking into limit straps as a Temporary band aid to help if weak CV's become a problem.  

I believe they way to more travel is thru teh centered diff and Longer A-arms.  Any other arm configuration off of the stock mounts is still bound by the CV legnth/angle/steering.  Longer arms and a centered diff are the easiest way to free up the numbers in teh travel equation.  The the BAJA race trucks are a good example of this.

Lots of gears spinning in my head,  Hope to add more later.

Second pic is very similar to your lift I just decided that if I do drop the front components, I just want to do it enough to get some added lift/better CV angles, but not any more than flipping the tierods could handle, since if I retain IFS, it'll most likely still be a road-worthy vehicle... no monkeying with suspension unless it's a trail-rig only

But just so that you guys know, most of my ideas are a direct effect of watching yours/Mazolla's buildup as well as studying Mike's and Wild's rigs, then combining components of each

Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, eh?

I have not looked into building a stronger front end yet, So for now I have designed around the CV angles and am working to avoid operation at full droop where they become vonerable.  I'm looking into limit straps as a Temporary band aid to help if weak CV's become a problem.  

I believe they way to more travel is thru the centered diff and Longer A-arms.  Any other arm configuration off of the stock mounts is still bound by the CV legnth/angle/steering.  Longer arms and a centered diff are the easiest way to free up the numbers in teh travel equation.  The the BAJA race trucks are a good example of this.

CV angles are something that's troubling me... I think it's due to having the Calmini 3" lift with little extra weight in the front :-/

Centered diff + long arms would be my preferred way of doing things, since it would be damn cool to have a nice, flexxy rig that could handle some hardcore jumping without breakage . Unfortunately this brings about entirely new problems with getting a centered diff built, making long CV shafts, and working out a steering solution. But all in all, it'd be the coolest way of doing things.

Steering is the only thing keeping me off of teh road.  Once i can swing the cash for the Cal mini dropped pitman arm I'll be road worthy again.  

I couldn't stand it and had to order these  :-/  I'm excited about them but the plactic will be put away until it's paid off.  It was a hard decision, gears or steering,  BUT  The TT 4.25:1's will help more off road than just about any other single mod.  

This ought to help break somthing.



Now if I can just get it installed in time.  Fall Zuwharrie is in 10 Days.


And while borrowing the wifes camera I found an awsome pic from the 4th of July Beach Trip.