Here is the tranny mount.


skyhiranger.
I was thinking what if I just pressed the pilot bearing a little further into the flywheel? Not pressing it so far that its not in full contact with the flywheel.

Parker.

p.s. Owning 2 Siberian huskies puts hair in EVERYTHING. lol.

nice mount. are you marking the pressure plate to where it sits on the flywheel every time so it goes back on the same place every time or is it possible that it could be going back on in a different location each time?  and yes the mount could most likely be causing your vibrations.

skyhiranger.
1. Cool, kinda on my train of thought.
3. The flywheel is from the 1.3 "samurai" motor. I would only flip it so that the shaved side was orientated to the starter. If you look you can see (it feels fresh) were the starter has chewed the ring gear. But again, its worked without problems in its current orientation.
4. They did. I remember seeing clean shinny surfaces where the pressure plate mounts to when I picked it up.
5. That thin metal plate that the starter mounts to? No is not installed because I use an adapter plate to mate the bottom end to the tranny. 1.6 - samurai tranny.
6. The motor mounts are in good working order. The transmission mount however needs replaced. All the rubber is there but its has separated some of it being pressed into the cradle of the mount. I'll snap a pic for you. I did notice the transmission not sitting in the middle of the cradle the 2nd time I took the transmission out (yesterday). It needs replaced.

And yes, NO new parts. The ONLY reason I took the transmission out in the first place was to take the transmission casing apart to silicon it.

Thanks everyone.
Parker.

3...Do you see any place on the starter where the flywheel/ring gear has rubbed on it?
5...Oh yeah, you did say you have a 1.6 block, so of course you would use the adapter plate and not the stock thin metal plate.  The adapter plate is thicker than the thin metal plate.  So therefore the starter would actually sit a little closer to the flywheel.  So that was why I asked about the starter having any rub marks on it from the flywheel/ring.
6...Very common for the tranny mount to break in that way.  A broken tranny mount can cause vibrations.  I'd fix it, before I'd do anything else, and see if that happens to fix the vibration issue.

Fuelish.
I've been meaning to bring that pressure plate issue to light. No I have not marked the pressure plate and kept parts "brethren".

I've been planing on replacing the tranny mount once its back together and I get into town. Maybe when I turn the mount lets the tranny shift around and that's why I feel the worse vibrations while turning?

Skyhiranger.
Like the pressure plate issue, I forgot to mention the starter. Here it is.

Well I got the dremel out and trimmed the ring gear up.
Got to finding the right size socket with the alignment tool and found that the smallest size is to big. So I kept the dremel out and made something work.
Got all the clutch surfaces cleaned so here goes, wish me luck.

Things I've done to hopefully solve my problem.
1. Grind-ed the ring gear in hopes that the starter and ring gear get along.
2. Used a clutch alignment tool.
3. Replaced rear transmission mount.

Parker.

skyhiranger.
I was thinking what if I just pressed the pilot bearing a little further into the flywheel? Not pressing it so far that its not in full contact with the flywheel.

A stock pilot bearing doesn't "hang out" of the flywheel much with one side flush with the flywheel.  So to keep a stock pilot bearing in full contact with the flywheel, you don't really have much "tweak" area.

One thing to consider is that with the thicker plate between the tranny and engine the tranny input shaft doesn't sit quite as far into the center of the flywheel (pilot bearing).  So you don't want to push the pilot bearing in so far so only like half the tip of the tranny input shaft is in it.  Gonna be hard to say how deep you can go with the pilot bearing and still have the input shaft positioned properly in it.
I can tell you with just a regular stock metal plate between the tranny and engine that I had to bottom out the wider pilot bearing against the crank (start the pilot bearing in the flywheel, bolt the flywheel up to the engine, then bottom the bearing out against the crank), to get it deep enough so the pilot bearing stayed on the machined part of the tip of the shaft.  I checked input shaft to pilot bearing engagement by putting a dab of grease on the tip of the input shaft, sliding the tranny and engine together and bolting them up, then taking it all back apart and seeing where the "engagement line" was in the grease.
So if you wanted to use a wider pilot bearing, and since you have the thicker plate between the engine and tranny, I would guess you could probably set the pilot bearing flush with the engine side of the flywheel and be about perfect.  But I don't know how close the tolerances are on input shaft to pilot bearing engagement, so I can't say for sure.

Are you able to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing/bushing by hand? I can't. I tried and tried until I my frustration got the better of me. I could only get the input shaft into the teeth of the disk by hand. I had to mate everything together using the bolts to clamp it all together. I've not had this problem with the other transmissions.

I left the input bearing alone.  I'm prepared to take the b!tch out again, but would be soooo pissed at myself if it were because I put my fiddling hands on something. If I end up taking everything apart again, ill try a wider bearing.

I've got about 45 - an hour and half left of work to do until its running, all the grinding took up so much time. The trans mount should get shipped tomorrow.

I'll make a post covering the test run, more than likely tomorrow.
Parker.

Are you able to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing/bushing by hand? I can't. I tried and tried until I my frustration got the better of me. I could only get the input shaft into the teeth of the disk by hand. I had to mate everything together using the bolts to clamp it all together. I've not had this problem with the other transmissions.

I left the input bearing alone.  I'm prepared to take the b!tch out again, but would be soooo pissed at myself if it were because I put my fiddling hands on something. If I end up taking everything apart again, ill try a wider bearing.

I've got about 45 - an hour and half left of work to do until its running, all the grinding took up so much time. The trans mount should get shipped tomorrow.

I'll make a post covering the test run, more than likely tomorrow.
Parker.

If you pull the tranny up to the engine using the bolts, that is a good way to damage something.

The tranny will slide all the way up to the engine, once you have everything aligned perfectly....sometimes that takes awhile.  Generally what happens is the splines of the input shaft and the fiber plate don't line up quite right.  What usually helps them line up is to slide the tranny up to the engine as far as you can, then with the tranny in gear, turn the output shaft of the tranny and continue to try to slide the tranny forward.  When everything gets lined up, they will slide together all the way.  Sometimes it helps to physically shake the tranny while pushing it towards the engine...that can sometimes get things just right to line up and slide together.

Oh I was shaking the #$%$ out of tranny while cursing at it. And yah, I wasn't happy using the bolts to mate. I think my major problem is how the engine sits without the tranny and my 1 jack. I bet the 1.3 or a more engineered motor mount bracket would help me out installing the tranny. Anything RRO "engineers" or "CAD designed" is shit. I use different vendors now only because of how they up-talk their stuff.

Hopefully everything found its home nicely. I don't want to say or even think it, but I may moved the bearing while pressing the two together. I unattached the two and felt what I could of the bearing. I didn't feel anything extreme.

Parker.

Yeah you definitely have to get the engine and tranny in alignment, before you try to slide them together.  Sometimes you can use a block of wood between the back of the engine and the firewall, or between the front axle and the oil pan, to change the angle of the engine so the tranny is easier to line up.

I'll remember that for next time.
Thanks.
Parker.

Driving the car today isn't gonna happen. My valve cover gasket was a little leaky so I bought a replacement. And the replacement doesn't fit the valve cover. Perfect! So I laied a thick bead of silicon and now I'm just waiting for a cure time of 24 hours until I put the cover on. With all my free time I got the camera out.

Here is the torn apart transmission mount installed.


And then the bead of silicon and faulty gasket.

There are 4 different ways you can orientate the VC gasket.  Did you try all 4?  Only 1 is right for everything to line up.
Swap it end for end and flip it over from one side to the other side.

Yep, played with it for 10 minutes. They way I took the picture is its best fit. And actually there are only 2 ways it could be orientated because the waves in the cover do not follow a consistent pattern from side to side.

There are still 4 ways to orientate the gasket, even though it doesn't line up properly with the waves.
I've never had a problem with the cork auto parts store gaskets lining up.  The ebay rubber/cork gaskets don't fit worth a crap though.