This gives 3" front and rear, you don't want to flip
the strut mount with this setup, it will over extend the CVs  

Wild,  
  This looks like nice way to give a Tracker / Sidekick a boost & $150 beats the heck out of everyone else.

Just to recap it is:
     1. Front 2" coil spacer with Strut spacer, which due to the A-arm configuration actually give you 3" of lift.

      2. Rear 3" coil spacer, with upper wishbone spacer.

     Is the Upper strut spacer 2" or 3",  & same question on the rear wishbone spacer.

Also you wrote not to flip the Strut mount as this would over extend the CV's.  What kind of trave does the front end have up and down from static rest (weight on tires).  Sounds like the front is close to extended at rest.  What is the CV angle like with this set up.  In your testing how hard have you wheeled it?  Have you broken any front axle parts yet?  

   I'm still trying to find the guestimated limit on the CV shafts with my 34's.  I keep hearing 2" lift is the limit due to CV angle.  I'm getting ready to drop my A-arms, strut tower, and housing, to minimize CV angle.  I am preparing to install GV 4-dr springs and a 2" spring spacer up front.  Undecided about the rear,  I'll throw in the GV springs and go from there.  I am considering extending the rear Wishbone and lower arms 1.5"  for more travel and to move the axle back some to keep it out of the doors.    

4-million questions...   :-/   Sorry.

                                 Michael


PS.  Please keep us posted on the advancement of your work on the CV/axle assy.  That sounds like somthing I'll soon be needing.

New front CV/axle assembly that will increase the
lift from 3" Max which is limited by the CVs angle and the Cup, to 4" or 5"
with an increased angle of 15* more angle, stock CVs can go about 25*
angle these will be able to go 40* angle and not bind, so down the
suspension goes, with out the ill side effects of over extended CV cups
and bent wire retainer rings.

Wild

OK, get ready, I got 4 Million Answers  

"Is the Upper strut spacer 2" or 3",  & same
question on the rear wishbone spacer."

3" on both

"Also you wrote not to flip the Strut mount as this would over extend the CV's.  
What kind of travel does the front end have up and down from static rest
(weight on tires).  Sounds like the front is close to extended at rest.  
What is the CV angle like with this set up.  In your testing how hard
have you wheeled it?  Have you broken any front axle parts yet?"

Front is in middle of travel range at rest.
CV is about where stock would be at full extension, while at rest.  
Broken parts: (1) CV cage (1) 22 spline long side (Left) axle,
this is after running this lift for 3 years and turbo was running
full boost (150-160 HP)


"I'm getting ready to drop my A-arms, strut tower,
and housing, to minimize CV angle."

Just drop Axle Housing 1 or 2" would help lots, but
you will lose ground clearance (life is full of tradeoffs    )


"I am considering extending the rear Wishbone and lower
arms 1.5"  for more travel and to move the axle back
some to keep it out of the doors."

You need to do a SYE or driveline spacers, if you rotate the axle,
you gain about 1" tire clearance, I'm going to move the rear axle
back about 1-1.5" for departure angle increase, I can hit 70* front
but not rear.      


Wild

Doesn't the Calmini 3" lift drop the front axle approximately 1"?  It seems like losing 1" at the front axle would be worth gaining 1"-2" everywhere else.  And reducing the angle of the CV joints (the weak link).

Did you build the entire engine around the turbo or did you do a bolt-on?  In order to pump out 160hp to 170hp you must have built the engine.

Is a turbo helpful off road?  Most don't kick in until 3,000 to 4,000 rpm.

for the REAR use FRONT TJ coils.  stock ones will give 2in of lift so with a spacer or lifted spring you can't go as high as you want.

stu

Doesn't the Calmini 3" lift drop the front axle approximately 1"?  It seems like losing 1" at the front axle would be worth gaining 1"-2" everywhere else.  And reducing the angle of the CV joints (the weak link).

Did you build the entire engine around the turbo or did you do a bolt-on?  In order to pump out 160hp to 170hp you must have built the engine.

Is a turbo helpful off road?  Most don't kick in until 3,000 to 4,000 rpm.

Yes the Calmini kit dropps the front diff, it does this by twisting the
diff forward, I don't like the way it does this, but it's their design for
increasing the CVs life (I guess) I have not found CV life to be a factor.

In a manner of speaking, I built some of the engine for
a turbo, but for the most part it's a stock motor.

low CR pistons could be used but the 8.9:1 stock CR is not
too high for lower boost applications (5-8 PSI) more than
that and low CR is needed.

Big turbos don't kick in until the higher revs,this one boosts
just off 1500 and keeps on pulling thru 6000, not much lag,
but I picked a well matched stock unit for this purpose, it's
not a total killer boost turbo, but it gives a good kick  

Looking for a "WILD" opinion on 4" Sidekick suspension lift.


I'm working on a 6" lift for my 1994 4dr Sidekick on 34" LTB Swampers.  I am currently aiming to drop all of the IFS components 4".  (A-arms, housing, and struts).  

My plan is to run 2" body & 4" suspension.
  2" body (done)
  2" coil spacers (Jeep XJ, opened up cen to 2.5")
  2" Stock Grand Vitara 4-dr coils.

I figure that I'f i'm gonna go thru the trouble to design and build the bracketry might as well go 4".   If I drop everything 4" I should be runnnig stock CV angles and I could possibly add 1 more inch down the road.   Drive shaft issue will be addressed once the front end is back together and complete, but because of the length of the front D-shaft, I expect to just use a small spacer.

Looks like the front lower A will see some 2.5" x 6" x20" thick wall rectangular tube (Modified & gusseted).   Rear A cross member will get cut out and dropped 4" using 4"x1/4" flat stock.  Housing upper braces will receive a simple 4" drop using 3" wide 1/4" flatstock reinforced.  
Strut towers will either get 4" spacers or the donor strut towers  may get chopped and bolted or welded in place.  I've still got to talk to my Alignment guy and get his recomendation.

I went to the U-pull it today and chopped the frame from a 4-dr JLX Kick,  I chopped it just in front of the a-pillar body mount.  Now I have a frame jig to work my suspension off of.    $40 and I can return it for a full refund in 30 days.

My Jeep Xj coil spacer went on slick with a 2.5" hole saw.

Sorry no pics been wrenching all day.    

Frame jig, nice to have, 30 Days ?  Work Quickly  

I think for the trouble, the 9" Jim Mazola lift would
be easier, uses stock mounts (reversable) and moves
the driveline down.

Problem is your ground clearance is not getting better,
bigger tires for increased clearance seems to be the
only way to recover from this, then you start taking out
CVs and Shafts.

My personal preference is to get as much out of the suspension
and leave the front diff up to clear the boulders  

A lift should provide 3 functions,
(1) To increase ground clearance  
(2) To make room for bigger tires
(3) To increase articulation

I laugh at all the wanna be Chevy "Pre-Runners"
I see jacked up as high as they will go, does nothing
for articulation, fact is you will get stuck by over lifting
the suspension, because of lack of down travel ability.

If the tires cannot follow the terrain, how can they give
you traction  Lockers are great, but places I get into
if you can't drive all your wheels, you ain't gettin up it.

Some loose and steep situations need all available traction
and airborn tires can't catch enough wind to do the job.

If the lift you are building does this  

Pics please, a sketch will do  

That's the Wild opinion

Frame jig, nice to have, 30 Days ?  Work Quickly  

fact is you will get stuck by over lifting
the suspension, because of lack of down travel ability.
If the tires cannot follow the terrain, how can they give
you traction  Lockers are great, but places I get into
if you can't drive all your wheels, you ain't gettin up it.
Some loose and steep situations need all available traction and airborn tires can't catch enough wind to do the job.

A lift should provide 3 functions,  
(1) To increase ground clearance  
(2) To make room for bigger tires
(3) To increase articulation

If the lift you are building does this  

 So far I am only adding tires and trying to preserve the CV's.   I'll add articulation and stregnth as i progress.  The Suspension should have as much down travel as stock maybe more unless the GV coils limit me, but I'm looking at a winch bumper so more weight would help if they turn out to be stiff.  I think I'm gonna toss the factory sway bar for now, I havn't used on on a sammy for years and they are said to be more tippy.

So guess now I'll need to learn how add ground clearance and to make the IFS twist.  My set up should still memic stock design specs so all the tricks should still apply.

I am trying to avoid the over lifted  / no down travel situation.  I've done the max the toyota IFS tortion bar and add a body lift & 35's.   Can't stand to do that again.
                                    thanks,
                                          Michael

Ps.  Have the camera charged up and will be running to the metal shop in the morning.  Should be able to get some pics tomorrow.

here this might help.

http://www.izook.com/tech/tracker/lift/tracker9inch.htm

and look at all the outher cool stuff they have too.

stu

The only problem with that 9" lift is the fact that with the front end drop, it puts the ground clearance almost back to stock.

The only problem with that 9" lift is the fact that with the front end drop, it puts the ground clearance almost back to stock.

Hmm, that was my point  

The only problem with that 9" lift is the fact that with the front end drop, it puts the ground clearance almost back to stock.

I figure a stock tire is about 27" and my 34 Swamper LTB is about 33".   By the way I see it I'll gain 3" of ground clearance by the tires alone.  Anymore I can make up with the lift would be a bonus & I'll still have room to bump up the front suspension an inch or two if need be.  

     With my 34's gearing will be a BIG issue,  using a 1:1 tranny gear and 1:1 t-case gear & 5.13:1 rp. my RPM's at 60 mph go from 3826.6 wiht 27's to 3130.9. with 33's.  

Stu,   How are your 34's on the HWY?  My Kick is a 16v 150k auto with od. and Zuwharrie is 5 hrs HWY 60+ MPH one way...

I'll post it when I get it done, With Pics for NY Kicker
he likes Pics  

Wild

       HEY THANKS    I'M NOT REAL TECHNICAL  , SO PICTURES HELP ME UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU GUYS ARE TALKING ABOUT      MATTY D.  

whitfield, YOUR RIG IS LOOKING GOOD.....DO YOU HAVE A WEB PAGE WITH ANY INFO & PICS. ....IF NOT CARDOMAIN OFFERS FREE WEBPAGES SO YOU CAN POST PICS. ON WEB & IN RETURN THEN POST SOME ON HERE    GOOD LUCK GETTING DONE & TO ZUHARRIE    MATTY D.  

I figure a stock tire is about 27" and my 34 Swamper LTB is about 33".   By the way I see it I'll gain 3" of ground clearance by the tires alone.  Anymore I can make up with the lift would be a bonus & I'll still have room to bump up the front suspension an inch or two if need be.  

     With my 34's gearing will be a BIG issue,  using a 1:1 tranny gear and 1:1 t-case gear & 5.13:1 rp. my RPM's at 60 mph go from 3826.6 wiht 27's to 3130.9. with 33's.  

Stu,   How are your 34's on the HWY?  My Kick is a 16v 150k auto with od. and Zuwharrie is 5 hrs HWY 60+ MPH one way...

i have a 8V, 5 speed, stock t-case and 5.12's and HWY is almost impossable(sp).  i mostly stick to back roads and streets.  the brakes are a issue too.  but sence you have a 4 door it might be better.  with an auto it might not be HWY able with 5.12's.